Camber bolt slipped in the rear. Car still safe to drive to a shop?
05-23-2012, 01:51 PM
#16
Apetrons suggestions were for full functionality, if you aren't serious about specs, then take it out for your own sake before another slippage occurs lol. But yea, Heedz wasn't reading so gave out the wrong info. What was meant was that you correct the camber to as close of a dial you can so you won't have as much of negative camber while driving to your preferred alignment shop. I think that adjusting the camber bolt, in your situation, would be easier than to adjust the plates up top. Its basically what the shop has to do anyways lol.
As for the camber bolt slipping... damn I run 2 in the front and 1 in the rear and havent had any slippages yet... *knock on wood* soo... I wonder who and how much they tightened your bolts lol. No plates yet, but that will be in the future.
As for the camber bolt slipping... damn I run 2 in the front and 1 in the rear and havent had any slippages yet... *knock on wood* soo... I wonder who and how much they tightened your bolts lol. No plates yet, but that will be in the future.
05-23-2012, 02:21 PM
#17
Apetrons suggestions were for full functionality, if you aren't serious about specs, then take it out for your own sake before another slippage occurs lol. But yea, Heedz wasn't reading so gave out the wrong info. What was meant was that you correct the camber to as close of a dial you can so you won't have as much of negative camber while driving to your preferred alignment shop. I think that adjusting the camber bolt, in your situation, would be easier than to adjust the plates up top. Its basically what the shop has to do anyways lol.
As for the camber bolt slipping... damn I run 2 in the front and 1 in the rear and havent had any slippages yet... *knock on wood* soo... I wonder who and how much they tightened your bolts lol. No plates yet, but that will be in the future.
As for the camber bolt slipping... damn I run 2 in the front and 1 in the rear and havent had any slippages yet... *knock on wood* soo... I wonder who and how much they tightened your bolts lol. No plates yet, but that will be in the future.
I do a bit of hooning on some backroads and they definitely aren't the best roads in the world so I suspect it slipped from the added stress from bouncing and sliding around. I'm sure it wouldn't slip on a real track.
05-23-2012, 02:21 PM
#18
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Don't remove the bolt, just loosen the nut. Then eye it to the correct position and then tighten to at least 75ft/lbs.
The bigger question is: why did it slip?
Do you hit something? Was it not torqued correctly? Was it not installed correctly?
05-23-2012, 02:34 PM
#19
It's easy to roughly adjust it.
Don't remove the bolt, just loosen the nut. Then eye it to the correct position and then tighten to at least 75ft/lbs.
The bigger question is: why did it slip?
Do you hit something? Was it not torqued correctly? Was it not installed correctly?
Don't remove the bolt, just loosen the nut. Then eye it to the correct position and then tighten to at least 75ft/lbs.
The bigger question is: why did it slip?
Do you hit something? Was it not torqued correctly? Was it not installed correctly?
05-23-2012, 04:06 PM
#21
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It allows you to dial in camber and maintain a safe distance for the wheel away from the strut or coilover. Especially if you are running relatively wide wheels and tires.
Example - You want to run -2.0 in the rear
You would dial in something like -2.5 or so on the camber plates.
Then using the camber bolts push the wheel out so that your overall camber is -2.0.
This will allow you to run the appropriate camber you want while maintaining distance between your suspension components.
On my current setup I am running 18x10.5 with a 275 tire and my wheels are VERY close to my coilovers. I am ordering camber plates and keeping my bolts so that I can move the wheel away from my coilovers while still getting the camber I want.
You wouldn't be able to do this with just plates or bolts.
Example - You want to run -2.0 in the rear
You would dial in something like -2.5 or so on the camber plates.
Then using the camber bolts push the wheel out so that your overall camber is -2.0.
This will allow you to run the appropriate camber you want while maintaining distance between your suspension components.
On my current setup I am running 18x10.5 with a 275 tire and my wheels are VERY close to my coilovers. I am ordering camber plates and keeping my bolts so that I can move the wheel away from my coilovers while still getting the camber I want.
You wouldn't be able to do this with just plates or bolts.
Is it safe to say that aggressive driving and camber bolts dont mix?
Last edited by FXTbrah; 05-23-2012 at 04:08 PM.
05-23-2012, 04:11 PM
#22
Ah makes sense. How safe is it to run both though since camber bolts seem to slip? If you really have to use the camber bolts and plates just to keep your wheels off the strut tower, wouldnt a slip pretty much mean huge front end damage? Im a noob when it comes to suspension btw.
At any point if the wheel is actually touching the suspension there are other problems that need figuring out. I can't imagine that a slip in the camber bolt would result in catastrophic damage unless your wheels were already in a place they shouldn't be.
As long as everything is installed right, and tightened properly I really see no issue with safety.
They do actually. I autox and run camber bolts with no issue as do lots of others. Also know plenty of folks who run track days with camber bolts installed and have no issue either.
Last edited by apetron; 05-23-2012 at 04:14 PM.
05-23-2012, 04:20 PM
#23
I have well over 100,000 miles on this set of camber bolts and they've NEVER slipped on me and I run huge sway bars and relatively stiff suspension and I smash on roads with mad pot holes, dips, etc. Same ones you're smashing probably... i.e. fields.
trons words are dead one. I'd get everything dialed in with the set up you have. If it slips again... I don't know... I guess dump them as you can get the specs you want with either component. You don't really need both.
05-23-2012, 04:23 PM
#24
Ah makes sense. How safe is it to run both though since camber bolts seem to slip? If you really have to use the camber bolts and plates just to keep your wheels off the strut tower, wouldnt a slip pretty much mean huge front end damage? Im a noob when it comes to suspension btw.
Is it safe to say that aggressive driving and camber bolts dont mix?
Is it safe to say that aggressive driving and camber bolts dont mix?
First question... It's perfectly safe. I failure in any suspension component is dangerous.
Second... the statement. That statement is false. Camber bolts and aggressive driving go together just fine. I've never had an issue with mine. I run 2 set. I have nearly 205,000 miles on my car and a LOOOOT of those are aggressive. No issues.
05-23-2012, 05:53 PM
#28
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I've not only run track days and autox, I've run several rallyx and hit some burms enough to jarr the car (luckily did not bend anything). And most of the rallyx was at Prairie City in Rancho Cordova... which as anyone who's been there can attest to it's roughness.
PC is a mean *****.
05-23-2012, 06:22 PM
#29
^Nice!!!!
I definitely did read it wrong at first.
It should be loosen bolt and turn to desired degree of camber. But without tool and such if you have a hard time I would just take it to the shop. Youre coming from Monterey area right? That is definitely a drive to CV.
I definitely did read it wrong at first.
It should be loosen bolt and turn to desired degree of camber. But without tool and such if you have a hard time I would just take it to the shop. Youre coming from Monterey area right? That is definitely a drive to CV.