Best Sway Set for under $500?
Originally Posted by OneManArmy
definately not....haaaa.
But then again....I love given him a hard time. Too bad he doesn't have pee yellow wheels anymore...that was fun.
But then again....I love given him a hard time. Too bad he doesn't have pee yellow wheels anymore...that was fun.
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remember that alignment also plays a HUGE role in how the car rotates. The factory alignment is specifically set up to make the car push (lots of negative camber in the rear and very little up front). Get yourself some rear camber bolts and set up the car with atleast -1.5* up front and trim the rear down to -1.0* or even less. This will have a huge impact on the car's ballance. With those settings and the right sway bars, the car will be very neutral and easy to handle while giving you the ability to rotate it at will. If you want to go more agressive, you'll likely need either camber plates or a smaller set of adjustable bolts for the front.
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Car Info: 04 STi & an autox Lemming
true. 04 STi, ran 9k/8k spring rates, -3 front and -1.9 rear, zero toe all around. There is a long discussion in NAZIOC Motorsports forum you may want to look it up. a lot of top STXers ran 22/22 too... but with extremely high spring rates such as 12k front /14k rear. So, i guess it's all about camber control. I wouldn't doubt stock front and a big rear bar can rotate nicely.
I believe bigger front bar will increase front grip by better camber control, which will increase maximum grip. A setup with big rear bar alone that changes the balance by decreasing rear grip, so the maximum grip is decreased. It might feel good, but is it really faster?
I believe bigger front bar will increase front grip by better camber control, which will increase maximum grip. A setup with big rear bar alone that changes the balance by decreasing rear grip, so the maximum grip is decreased. It might feel good, but is it really faster?
Last edited by wm07; Feb 23, 2007 at 11:42 AM.
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Originally Posted by MethodBuilt
remember that alignment also plays a HUGE role in how the car rotates. The factory alignment is specifically set up to make the car push (lots of negative camber in the rear and very little up front). Get yourself some rear camber bolts and set up the car with atleast -1.5* up front and trim the rear down to -1.0* or even less. This will have a huge impact on the car's ballance. With those settings and the right sway bars, the car will be very neutral and easy to handle while giving you the ability to rotate it at will. If you want to go more agressive, you'll likely need either camber plates or a smaller set of adjustable bolts for the front.
sounds like you're describing Jeffs wagon...almost..haa. That thing strait handles. It's a blast to drive and drive in and a ***** to keep up with in the twisties.
the artist formerly known as mcdrama
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Originally Posted by OneManArmy
WTF?????
No way would I put a bar that big up front...If I wanted it to push I'd a bought a honda.
This will create a neutral handling car with a bit of understeer...much like stock just stiffer....then you have to overcompensate with camber.
a 22 up front is perfect in my opinion.
No way would I put a bar that big up front...If I wanted it to push I'd a bought a honda.
This will create a neutral handling car with a bit of understeer...much like stock just stiffer....then you have to overcompensate with camber.
a 22 up front is perfect in my opinion.
I for some reason thought the cobb was 27mm equiv. I was wrong. :P
My car has plenty of rotation for me. +1 for the Cobb bars.
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Originally Posted by mcdrama
I for some reason thought the cobb was 27mm equiv. I was wrong. :P
My car has plenty of rotation for me. +1 for the Cobb bars.
My car has plenty of rotation for me. +1 for the Cobb bars.
fitment is good? I've been flip flopping on cobb, whiteline, cusco.
I have the whiteline mounts.
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Car Info: 02 WRX Sportwagon
Originally Posted by mudman
I say get the sways before tires.
Changing the sways and springs will make your car rotate and turn very differently...learn the cars new handling characteristics on your RE-92's at a slow speed...they give you plenty of warning before breaking traction...then when you are used to how it steers, turns in etc.. THEN get better tires so you can increase your cornering speeds.
RE-92's are fantastic 'Training wheel's' tires so you can learn how your car feels on the limit, but at slower speeds.
Changing the sways and springs will make your car rotate and turn very differently...learn the cars new handling characteristics on your RE-92's at a slow speed...they give you plenty of warning before breaking traction...then when you are used to how it steers, turns in etc.. THEN get better tires so you can increase your cornering speeds.
RE-92's are fantastic 'Training wheel's' tires so you can learn how your car feels on the limit, but at slower speeds.
the artist formerly known as mcdrama
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Car Info: WRBP 2015 WRX Premium/CVT
Originally Posted by OneManArmy
fitment is good? I've been flip flopping on cobb, whiteline, cusco.
I have the whiteline mounts.
I have the whiteline mounts.
Fitment is fine. Install time however is a bit more then solid bars. The solid bar can slide right in to the front. The Cobb requires removal of the from U brace/sub frame thing.
If you want to take my car for a spin to see how the cobb bars feel, PM/IM me and we can meet up this weekend.
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Car Info: 2006 WRB Impreza WRX
I am thinking of going with 24 MM ADJ Whiteline's in the back now that I have read everyone's postings.
2 Questions:
1) Do I need new front endlinks? I am getting rear for sure, but fronts?
2) You need 2 rear endlinks to complete the set right? 1 is not enough?
2 Questions:
1) Do I need new front endlinks? I am getting rear for sure, but fronts?
2) You need 2 rear endlinks to complete the set right? 1 is not enough?
Thread Starter
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Car Info: 2006 WRB Impreza WRX
Well I decided to upgrade my struts to some new ones so I could get the crucial springs (the ones I really wanted) and i am trying hard to decide between Koni Inserts and KYB AGX's
The Koni Inserts I have heard perform wondefully but the onlky downside is that they require a bunch of work to install, your basically gutting your factory struts, and they are very very expensive.
The KYB AGX's are about $200 cheaper but supposedly are better for day to day driving.
What are you guys's experiences with these struts, and what do you think would complement the crucial springs?
The Koni Inserts I have heard perform wondefully but the onlky downside is that they require a bunch of work to install, your basically gutting your factory struts, and they are very very expensive.
The KYB AGX's are about $200 cheaper but supposedly are better for day to day driving.
What are you guys's experiences with these struts, and what do you think would complement the crucial springs?
Dahveed aka Robin Hood
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Car Info: (RIP) '04 STi Silver
STi JDM Pink springs or Swift springs FTW.
Ed's (Method's) alignment specs, but remember zero toe all around.
If even needed, Cobb/Hotchkis Hollow F&R swaybar set.
Ed's (Method's) alignment specs, but remember zero toe all around.
If even needed, Cobb/Hotchkis Hollow F&R swaybar set.
If I were in your shoes with an 06...I would do the pink springs and new tires (and/or rims). Drive on that for a while then see what more you want out of the set up. My 2 cents.
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From: Knee deep in beer. subabrew crew, ca.
Car Info: MY04 aspen wrx wagon.
Originally Posted by mcdrama
Fitment is fine. Install time however is a bit more then solid bars. The solid bar can slide right in to the front. The Cobb requires removal of the from U brace/sub frame thing.
If you want to take my car for a spin to see how the cobb bars feel, PM/IM me and we can meet up this weekend.
If you want to take my car for a spin to see how the cobb bars feel, PM/IM me and we can meet up this weekend.
sounds good.
I was pulling the motor in the caddy this weekend though...look like a grease monkey still. Washed my hair 3 times and conditioned it twice to get all the grease, PS fluid and tranny fluid out....oh and cat litter and dirt. Fingers are still jacked up. What a mess. 54 years of fluid leaks, 20 years of sitting in dirt under a tree and 34 years of road grime.... WOW!!!! like a quarter inch thick. Aparently there are 34 bolts I need to remove to seperate the tranny....I can't see any of them.
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I like my Whiteline 24mm RSB. I went non adjustable as I would never really adjust them anyway. Going to get a White FSB when I go back to GST next month. I do mostly canyon driving and once in a while track envents (first one on April 27th). Feels like my car rotates so much better with just the RSB. A mod I can actually feel!
btw the non adjustable endlinks look baller while the adjustables are meh. So when people sit under you car they will appreciate your ballerness.
btw the non adjustable endlinks look baller while the adjustables are meh. So when people sit under you car they will appreciate your ballerness.