So I got my alignment and they said they were only able to get -1.1 camber in the front with the stock bolts. Everything else is how I wanted it though.

I guess I'm gonna pick up some Whiteline Comp-C top hats to get that extra camber in the front. At least my toe is zeroed out, that's what I was concerned most about.

 

So did you get your rears to be -1.5 or did you just do .5 since the fronts are -1.1?

Since I have the RCEs as well I think I might pick up some front camber bolts since I want to be at least -1.5 to -2+

 

They said they don't recommend front camber bolts but I don't have any comment on that.

I stayed with the -1.5 in the rear. -.5 camber is not enough camber and will probably wear out the outer edge of the tire.

 

Yea I haven't heard of many people running front camber bolts on Subarus before, but maybe I wasn't looking hard enough or it's because most people have camber plates.

What do you mean by .-5 not being enough camber and will cause more wear though? Not sure I follow

 

Where did you go? Subarus come with camber bolts so I'm not sure why the wouldn't recommend them, unless they meant bolts vs plates

And any more negative than -1 degree of camber on a street subaru in the rear is a bit too much, you want more negative camber in the front than rears

 

Oh and only positive camber will wear the outsides of the tire iirc

I need to get some rear camber bolts and get my car back into spec cuz I've got like -2 back there and only like -1 up front

 

Someone posted on IWSTi that having less than -1 camber in the rear can cause the rear end to get very happy when throttle is mashed mid turn.

Here's the thread - Alignment Specs 2006 STi? - Subaru Impreza WRX STI Forums: IWSTI.com

I went to Auto Innovations in Milpitas. They were working on a super clean white GR STi when I was there. I'm sure they meant that plates were better in the front than bolts and no one runs bolts all around.

Yeah I'm going to order the Whiteline Com-C Strut top to get that extra camber in the front. My goal is still -2F/-1.5R.

 

I run camber bolts, plates and machined hubs in front. Then in the back I have bolts, trailing arms and laterals. I zero out the camber plates. Adjust the bolts to spec. Then when I hit the track I lift the cat and dial in negative camber.
Otherwise its set up for street.

I think I am pushing 2.5- front 2- rear and depending on the event. I have adjustments to 12- camber. Most I think I have run is 4.5 front 3.5 rear.

 

Oh forgot. You can run bolts. But there is a certain brand to use. Otherwise the can slip. Ill have to look when I get home to see what brand.

 

You know you're already the exception to almost all the rules

Let me know the brand and the price. If they're cheaper than the top hats I might just get those instead.

 

I thought switching your camber plate settings on the fly messes up your alignment....ie. you don't just get more camber, you also get a toe change?

 

I run bolts in the lower holes up front, and upper holes in the rear. This was the only way I could get more than -1.0 in front and less than -2.0 in rear...even with some "finesse" (loosening everything up and maxing it out before tightening the bolts up)

The only way, that is, without camber plates or Com-C strut mounts I DO have adjustable lat links in the rear, so I will probably ditch the bolts next time I need an alignment.

 

exception? I thought it was conception....

Ingalls Camber Bolts But I think you would be happier with the plates. Your car would be a tad lower. And you wouldnt have to worry about the stock top hats clunking when they go bad.


I have never seen a change. But then again my suspension geometry is a tad different then oem now. So I may not get that. I do know moving them was good for 4 seconds off my lap time at big willow.

It should be good to see what the new set up runs next month. As I move to slicks, wider wheels, DSS axles, Carbonetic clutch and front, rear lsd. And the new splitter with flat panel bottom.

That is the way to go if you run the bolts.. I have yet to have any problems with the bolts set up that way. Hell I was worried about pulling the rear axles out of the diff. I have the rear lats set so far out. But the real test was the drift pad at subiefest. I was beating the crap out of the car and they didn't pull. Made the 350 mile drive back to Phx. I have the custom axles going forward so I don't care to much anymore. I refuse to run wheel spacers.

 

I'm sure by slamming your camber you are seeing an improvement, but if your car was track only and you fixed your alignment at the camber and toe you desired you would take a step forward.

Going to the track, loosening off your camber plates and slamming your camber for big negative alignment messes up you toe according to Orlando at AI, I used to do it for AutoX all the time until I learned differently.

Have you thought about not DD your race car and fixing it to some really extreme alignment settings?

BTW, I saw your car at BAM and loved it.

 

Also everyone keep in mingd to have at least a half a tank of fuel in the car for the alignment. And replace any worn bushings before hand. Those worn bushings can play havoc on your settings under load. Proper air in the tires as well.

Glenspen Thank you..
Its going to a full race set up now. The night before the event the car gets set up and loaded into the trailer. I keep a log on the set ups of what works and what doesn't. I also believe the track is a place to play and the garage is the place to work. So I make only small adjustments at the track and learn to drive around the problems as much as I can. Your never going to have a perfect car all the time.

Its only going to be driven on the street to local shows and stuff now. Its trailer'd to all the track events except Subiefest and BAM. I do get a kick out of driving it down the road at the speed limit and having everyone wig out that the fast looking car is going so slow. lol I have got some very crazy looks by passing drivers.

It looks like this now

Next week it will look much different. With all the drivetrain mods I'm swapping out the dash and the turbo/ic piping/reverse intake,wheels