Alignment specs
11-15-2011, 04:25 PM
#16
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 7,634
Car Info: Some sort of Subaru
Front Camber -3.5 to -4
Rear Camber -2.2 to -2.5
Toe in the front and rear (maybe 1/16 to 1/8)
The cars are still driven on the street too
11-15-2011, 04:57 PM
#17
VIP Member
That doesn't seem bad to me. Then again, I'm used to seeing my brother's and his friends' autox setup, which is something like the following:
Front Camber -3.5 to -4
Rear Camber -2.2 to -2.5
Toe in the front and rear (maybe 1/16 to 1/8)
The cars are still driven on the street too
Front Camber -3.5 to -4
Rear Camber -2.2 to -2.5
Toe in the front and rear (maybe 1/16 to 1/8)
The cars are still driven on the street too
I tried adding some toe to the rear but I just didn't like how darty it was under braking. Keeping neutral in the rear worked best for me.
11-15-2011, 04:59 PM
#18
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: BorderJumperEnforcer's momma's house
Posts: 2,506
Car Info: Fast
Take that Ingalls part number and go down to your local Kragen/O'Reilly/Autozone. They should have the exact same bolts labeled as SPC. They run about the same price for a pair as Amazon.
Get a set for front if you want more than -1.2 to -1.5, and DEFINITELY get a set for the rear to bring the camber under -2.0
I think you are on the right track. -1.5 to -2.0 up front and .5 to 1.0 less in the rear is a pretty good setup that loosens up the rear end (less understeer) and it will not chew tires too bad, assuming ZERO toe, of course
Now the caveat: it you are going to get camber bolts installed when the alignment is done, pay the money and have a good shop do the alignment. Do not expect your 59.99 alignment shop to use the bolts correctly, or even try to get your "custom alignment specs." They will probably just lave the washers off, leave you with a ****ty alignment that goes out quickly, and cost you money in the long run.
I always install the bolts myself and max out the lower bolt up front. Then I tell the tech specifically to only loosen the lower nut and make ALL adjustments with the top OEM camber bolt. As for the rear, well, you better have a tech that is competent
Get a set for front if you want more than -1.2 to -1.5, and DEFINITELY get a set for the rear to bring the camber under -2.0
I think you are on the right track. -1.5 to -2.0 up front and .5 to 1.0 less in the rear is a pretty good setup that loosens up the rear end (less understeer) and it will not chew tires too bad, assuming ZERO toe, of course
Now the caveat: it you are going to get camber bolts installed when the alignment is done, pay the money and have a good shop do the alignment. Do not expect your 59.99 alignment shop to use the bolts correctly, or even try to get your "custom alignment specs." They will probably just lave the washers off, leave you with a ****ty alignment that goes out quickly, and cost you money in the long run.
I always install the bolts myself and max out the lower bolt up front. Then I tell the tech specifically to only loosen the lower nut and make ALL adjustments with the top OEM camber bolt. As for the rear, well, you better have a tech that is competent
11-15-2011, 07:03 PM
#21
+1 for Auto Innovations! I go to them for all of my alignment and wheel/tire needs. I even bought a set of wheels from them. Orlando and Steve know what's up.
My specs are:
Zero toe front and rear
-1.2 camber in the front
-0.9 camber in the rear
I have BC Coilovers with Cusco rear LCA's, and a WRX rear sway bar.
My camber is probably a little different now though since I dropped the car another inch or so since it was last aligned. When I go back in I'll be asking for -1.5 in the front and -1.0 in the rear.
My specs are:
Zero toe front and rear
-1.2 camber in the front
-0.9 camber in the rear
I have BC Coilovers with Cusco rear LCA's, and a WRX rear sway bar.
My camber is probably a little different now though since I dropped the car another inch or so since it was last aligned. When I go back in I'll be asking for -1.5 in the front and -1.0 in the rear.
11-16-2011, 10:03 AM
#28
VIP Member
Camber rear 2.5
front and rear toe zero
No front sway bar
Cusco rear sway bar
Whiteline ALK
Track was WSIR in October track temps were cool to cold. Lap times were average 1:34.5xx
Engine a standard N12B EJ20 with about 40k miles
Tires Toyo RA1
starting tire temp 28 psi Front 32 psi rear nitrogen
ending session before cool down lap
36 front right 35 front left, 37 rear right 38 rear left
Tire temps
front left (the temp F order will be from outer to inner)
218/210/190
front right (the temp F order will be from outer to inner)
200/198/186
rear left (the temp F order will be from outer to inner)
196/190/170
rear right (the temp F order will be from outer to inner)
188/188/166
11-16-2011, 11:22 AM
#29
Nice. That's not to bad a lap time for what sounds like a street able car.
And Paul is right.... to know you're running the right specs for your car set up and your driving style you gotta have temps.
as for me... I set my specs to what feels right and I keep them mello because I my car is a daily driver. To understand these specs you need to understand the difference between track cars and street cars.
I run -1.8 up front and -0.7 in the front right now. I also run the big set of whiteline adjustable bars. 24/27 with front on 1 of 2 and the rear in 2 of 3.
It gives me a pretty neutral car that I can get lift oversteer easily with. On the track I would probably run the rear bar at full stiff and step up about -.5 camber at all 4.
Stock is -1.3 in the rear and I think -.3 in the front. Set up for understeer which is safer for your non active drivers.
And Paul is right.... to know you're running the right specs for your car set up and your driving style you gotta have temps.
as for me... I set my specs to what feels right and I keep them mello because I my car is a daily driver. To understand these specs you need to understand the difference between track cars and street cars.
I run -1.8 up front and -0.7 in the front right now. I also run the big set of whiteline adjustable bars. 24/27 with front on 1 of 2 and the rear in 2 of 3.
It gives me a pretty neutral car that I can get lift oversteer easily with. On the track I would probably run the rear bar at full stiff and step up about -.5 camber at all 4.
Stock is -1.3 in the rear and I think -.3 in the front. Set up for understeer which is safer for your non active drivers.
11-16-2011, 08:04 PM
#30
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: BorderJumperEnforcer's momma's house
Posts: 2,506
Car Info: Fast
WOW. A tire temp gauge?! That is WAAAYYY overboard for, and I quote:
Just keep the tow zero'ed out, and camber below -2.0ish and you should be fine. And by fine, I mean you will get 5-15k miles from your tires depending on brand, tire type, and treadware/compound without destructive inner tire wear
One Man Army has a good ball park setting that will work. Check this little sheet out: http://rogerkrausracing.com/pages/in...nder+Steer.pdf
Just keep the tow zero'ed out, and camber below -2.0ish and you should be fine. And by fine, I mean you will get 5-15k miles from your tires depending on brand, tire type, and treadware/compound without destructive inner tire wear
One Man Army has a good ball park setting that will work. Check this little sheet out: http://rogerkrausracing.com/pages/in...nder+Steer.pdf
