edkwon

iTrader: (3)

All i can say is, god bless the ppl like you who have this incurable addiction and go thru insane power mods so we can live vicariously, lol.

Ed

huck

iTrader: (25)

+1 for buying Krinkovs second hand parts

ipozestu

iTrader: (18)

???? I'm talking about the water side, not the air side. The flow characteristics of the air will not change. It's still an OEM style intercooler.

ipozestu

iTrader: (18)

I'll second that.

OneManArmy

iTrader: (7)

sheit...what do you need sucka!!!! bah.

Krinkov

iTrader: (21)

well i do have the outlet diaganol to the inlet, and a small plate right under the inlet but thats just to get a little better dispersion. Keep in mind though that unlike air, water cannot be compressed and therefore will have the exact same pressure and flow at all points through an enclosed space from the area of highest pressure(inlet) to the area of lowest pressure(outlet)

Just like in your radiator, water will not change its density so you have the same pressure and flow across the entire area of the core regardless of the placement of the inlet/outlet.

Tele-Viper

So would you use coolant or just straight water? And this may sound like a dumb question, but would you get the same cooling efficiency if you went with the smaller wrx intercooler/water hybrid? It seems to me that there would be no difference, but me no good with physics that's why I'm in radio.

Krinkov

iTrader: (21)

actually, straight water is much better at carrying away heat than coolant. Even though its called 'coolant' its made to have a much higher boiling point than water, this is good in an engine cooling system but the trade off is conventional automotive coolant is not nearly as conductive of heat as straight water. Im looking into a couple options right now to make the water a bit more conductive, but as it stands water already has a thermal conductivity 25X better than air (water has a thermal conductivity of 0.609 WmK compared to air which has a thermal conductivity of 0.024 WmK) so straight water would provide more than enough cooling potential for my goals with this setup.

heres a couple more pics of the AWIC project, I'll have a full write up when its installed and tested, anyone can make this for just a couple hundred dollars with their TMIC compared to $1K+ for many of the AWIC setups on the market right now.

https://www.i-club.com/forums/engine-power-ej20t-pre-2006-wrx-jdm-60/will-oem-sti-top-mount-sufficient-16g-turbo-intercooler-question-147071/

bushido

iTrader: (2)

+2
Jeremy takes good care of his stuff.

-rich

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

Nice!!! Looks like a pretty cool project. I would be a little concerned about the aluminum sheets flexing slightly towards the center - the tighter you make the end lag screws the more this will happen even with gratuitous amounts of silicone. Maybe a pair of bars and lags in the middle or better yet aluminum angle extrusions that can run the length of the long sides of the intercooler.

Anywho - awesome project. I always wanted to experiment with AWIC after seeing a friend's Vortec Aftercooler on his LS1 Camaro. I always wondered why Toyota switched from AWIC to TMIC on the GT4, but I guess cost is the answer.

Seems like an AWIC would be a great benefit with higher powered systems seeking more reliable cooling. Plus, you can rig your I/C sprayer up as an auxillery windshield washer! Yay!

Krinkov

iTrader: (21)

yeah good eye, already considered it bowing in the middle and using a cross bar. But after a quicky pressure test it seams theres leaks along most of the seams where the crimped sides sides are joined and around the side mounting tabs that I dont feel can be sealed reliably with epoxy so Im going to send the whole thing out to get the caps and all the seams welded up.

And yeah, if I hadnt have already pulled out the IC watersprayer system ages ago I would prolly convert it to an in car beverage dispenser

ucbsti

iTrader: (9)

is that some sweet JBweld on the water port on the DIY air-water-cooler?

ucbsti

iTrader: (9)

The benefits of using water are actualy 100x compared to air cooled, since its not only the termal conductivity coef that drives the over-all heat transfer equation. The hot air transfers to metal, then the air cools the metal. However, the water/metal interface is much more condusive to heat transfer than the air/metal interface

I design these systems for a living, water to air is the way to go

If you wanna run your full system by me I can check for any potential downfalls

Krinkov

iTrader: (21)

no.1 ran till 75K, pulled it out for a built motor to run good gas on the GT30R(no.2). After 12K miles I was planing to sell the car so I sold the built motor and put in one of the Gruppe-s crate STI/Forrester motors (no.3). Never sold the car and now have about 20K on the new stock motor(yes I have 110K miles on my STI) and just picked up an 05 STI longblock Im putting better pistons into and should have all together wit this setup next month. Hopefully

Krinkov

iTrader: (21)

yeah, people dont realize that air is actually a better insulator than a conductor, whereas water is a perfect natural conductor, thats why it takes a hell of alot more air moving quickly to draw away as much heat as a much smaller amount of water.

yeah I might just run a couple things by you once I geet everything I need together, thx