It would probably be easier (and maybe cheaper) to get stock WRX headers and a crossmember, and WRX-intended up and downpipes. S-Squared Motorsports can help you source the parts. There shouldn't be any favrication necessary other than new oil feed lines and you will notice the car holding boost better with the stock WRX headers. I am going to be doing all this soon on my 2001 GM6, and I will be posting all the details of my turbo install as soon as it is finished.

 

well get the WRX header and put the S-Squared Motorsports uppipe on it. That will cure some of your problems.

 

They won't. Need a WRX or Leg turbo crossmember for that.

 

ooo! oooo! ooo! I have one of those if someone needs it. Pm me.

 

You can get a uppipeless manifold and get a T3 uppipe adapter/uppipe.

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Your smoking turbo problems. It could be one of the following:

Bad turbo seals. -- Get turbo rebuilt. They sometimes are bad even on new turbos.

Bad oil drain. Too low. You need to check and make sure that the oil is draining well.

Too big of a oil feed line. What size is yours?

Too much crankcase pressure. -- Install proper crankcase ventilation to the intake to reduce that.

 

like Imprezer said, you might have to much crank case pressure. you might want to get a good catch can, and a good manigold.

 

Good "manigold" has nothing to do with crank pressure. Nether does catch-tank. As long as the hoses are routed back into the pre-turbo intake, it should be ok.

Also, check your PCV valve. You might want to get a turbo one, since if yours is not strong enough or is broken, you will be pressurising the crankcase with your charged air. Kapish?

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Yes, I did try the CUSCO manifold on the 2.5RS back in the days. Waterpump clearance is not an issue. Thermostat housing is. So, you have to use turbo waterpump which has a thermostat housing in a different place.

For oil return, where are you returning oil to? Show me a pic.

 

Actually, timing belt on a SOHC motor is very easy. You can do it in about one hour. Even on the DOHC, the complexity is usually overstated. It is not easy at all.

When I say PCV, I mean the little connector that is bolted into your intake manifold being the TB. All it is a one way valve. It lets the air go one way, INTO the intake. That happens only under vaccum condition. So, one you go on boost, the valve closes and doesnt allow the air to go through the valve into the crank case.

Since NA cars never see any pressure above 0 vaccum. The turbo PCV might be better suited for your application. I am not sure if they are diff, but it would be a good idea to switch to a new WRX PCV, since they do tend to go bad after some time with all the oil and other crap bulding up in it. So, if it "leaks" you will pressurise your crank case. And, when that happens, the pressure leaks through the easist way. In your case that would be turbo oil seal. Next thing, you will pop your cam and crank seal.

That, of course, is true if your PCV is in fact bad.

Sorry for so much info. I am drunk and I am bored. I am surpised however, how much I can talk about Subaru's even after 4 bottles of wine for 2 people, hahahjaksdaknmda.

 

hey dude....
I know the their not the prettiest pipes around, but LS will still sell you an upipe/downpipe combo. You can use Borla's or stock exhaust manifold with those.

I have them attached to the borlas and I'm very pleased.

The turbo will be high enough then for oil drain not to be a problem.