help with ej25 rebuild?
#47
update on oil cooler or thread? i didnt really do much to the build this past weekend as im trying to make a sales tax deadline tomorrow. What i DID do is bring my engine and parts over to my place to finish the build. I also had sometime to wash the whips
^also got to cleaning intake manifold a bit.
^also got to cleaning intake manifold a bit.
#48
actually a TRUE update on RS build:
IM STUCK AT WRIST PINS! LOL. my ghetto fabulous puller didnt work. so now i have no choice but to either: make another one, spend $200 on OE tool, or PUSH pins out from other side. Even then, ive been soaking those screws for access holes in PB and still they wanna strip...
IM STUCK AT WRIST PINS! LOL. my ghetto fabulous puller didnt work. so now i have no choice but to either: make another one, spend $200 on OE tool, or PUSH pins out from other side. Even then, ive been soaking those screws for access holes in PB and still they wanna strip...
#49
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actually a TRUE update on RS build:
IM STUCK AT WRIST PINS! LOL. my ghetto fabulous puller didnt work. so now i have no choice but to either: make another one, spend $200 on OE tool, or PUSH pins out from other side. Even then, ive been soaking those screws for access holes in PB and still they wanna strip...
IM STUCK AT WRIST PINS! LOL. my ghetto fabulous puller didnt work. so now i have no choice but to either: make another one, spend $200 on OE tool, or PUSH pins out from other side. Even then, ive been soaking those screws for access holes in PB and still they wanna strip...
What tool are you using? I used my Torx T-70 bit on a huge 1/2 in breaker bar to get them loose. You are going to have to look around... I know autozone stocks it sometimes and I am pretty sure you can get it from Grainger too. If you are talking about the two screws that hold the diamond shaped cover in place, use an impact driver like this:
Again, not sure what the concern is about tapping the wrist pins out instead of pulling them?!?!?! It isnt like you tap them once and they go flying. You will have to tap them a couple times to get them to come out.
A rubber mallet and a bunch of 1/4 inch extensions (or one long one) is all you need. You literally look through the block, place the end of the extension on the wrist pin and start tapping... you will feel them start to come out. Then you just go to the other side, grab it with your hand and work it out the rest of the way.
Also, by the looks of it... your rear oil separator plate was leaking pretty good.
#50
So you cannot get the access plugs out?
What tool are you using? I used my Torx T-70 bit on a huge 1/2 in breaker bar to get them loose. You are going to have to look around... I know autozone stocks it sometimes and I am pretty sure you can get it from Grainger too. If you are talking about the two screws that hold the diamond shaped cover in place, use an impact driver like this:
Again, not sure what the concern is about tapping the wrist pins out instead of pulling them?!?!?! It isnt like you tap them once and they go flying. You will have to tap them a couple times to get them to come out.
A rubber mallet and a bunch of 1/4 inch extensions (or one long one) is all you need. You literally look through the block, place the end of the extension on the wrist pin and start tapping... you will feel them start to come out. Then you just go to the other side, grab it with your hand and work it out the rest of the way.
Also, by the looks of it... your rear oil separator plate was leaking pretty good.
What tool are you using? I used my Torx T-70 bit on a huge 1/2 in breaker bar to get them loose. You are going to have to look around... I know autozone stocks it sometimes and I am pretty sure you can get it from Grainger too. If you are talking about the two screws that hold the diamond shaped cover in place, use an impact driver like this:
Again, not sure what the concern is about tapping the wrist pins out instead of pulling them?!?!?! It isnt like you tap them once and they go flying. You will have to tap them a couple times to get them to come out.
A rubber mallet and a bunch of 1/4 inch extensions (or one long one) is all you need. You literally look through the block, place the end of the extension on the wrist pin and start tapping... you will feel them start to come out. Then you just go to the other side, grab it with your hand and work it out the rest of the way.
Also, by the looks of it... your rear oil separator plate was leaking pretty good.
cool! thanks for the help bud. im actually going to go with push method as i spent a cool 2 hours on one pin with my DIY puller. now its time to push....but in order to push i gotta get those covers off. and ya, no leaks or damage. was pretty impressed, sisnce u mentioned they tend to leak. itll be replaced anyways
#51
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I was saying that it looks like the separator plate IS leaking. The picture is dark at the bottom but it looks like it is leaking from the bottom of the plate hence all of the black crud that has collected at the bottom of the bellhousing.
#53
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That is definitely not from a broken CV axle. That is 10's of thousands of miles worth of a slow leak.
1. the hole at the bottom of your bellhousing faces down. Your axles are above, behind and to the side of that opening
2. Your CV boots rotate completely perpendicular to that opening (not to mention above, behind and to the side of it).
3 You would have soaked the outermost portions of your clutch/flywheel if it somehow came from outside of your bell housing.
From your own picture you can see how impossible it would be for CV boot grease to rotationally sling itself off of your rotating axle and into that small opening at the bottom of your bellhousing and up onto the back of your motor.
Last edited by Harry Maneuvers; 04-29-2013 at 04:16 PM.
#54
That is definitely not from a broken CV axle. That is 10's of thousands of miles worth of a slow leak.
1. the hole at the bottom of your bellhousing faces down. Your axles are above, behind and to the side of that opening
2. Your CV boots rotate completely perpendicular to that opening (not to mention above, behind and to the side of it).
3 You would have soaked the outermost portions of your clutch/flywheel if it somehow came from outside of your bell housing.
From your own picture you can see how impossible it would be for CV boot grease to rotationally sling itself off of your rotating axle and into that small opening at the bottom of your bellhousing and up onto the back of your motor.
either way, in the end, both are getting replaced. LOL. but deff worth finding the tru reason behind this.
#55
Pistons 2 and 4 out. The 12pt 12mm coolant jacket case bolts snapped my extension going to take a super light tap or two to those case bolts. At least to break them the slightest bit. Other than that, ill finally have the block split and on its way to the machine shop
#56
shopping spree time.
Talked to sales rep at SubaruGenuineParts.com andhe stated that they do not offer a timing belt kit that being said, if theres anything i want to buy as a kit or bundle, it should be that. I was looking at Gates as they seem to be a popular OE alternative. I saw a kit on ebay for 250. Its deff a gates product and the seller has incredibly good seller ratings. looks like a shop of some sort. When I DO buy off ebay, its for cosmetic or "non-critical parts" (scoops, cf wrap, lights, etc) should i go with the Gates off ebay? or Gates through someone else at a higher price? or buy each indivual part thru SGP.com at a even higher cost? each having its pros and cons as u can see.
BUMP!
Talked to sales rep at SubaruGenuineParts.com andhe stated that they do not offer a timing belt kit that being said, if theres anything i want to buy as a kit or bundle, it should be that. I was looking at Gates as they seem to be a popular OE alternative. I saw a kit on ebay for 250. Its deff a gates product and the seller has incredibly good seller ratings. looks like a shop of some sort. When I DO buy off ebay, its for cosmetic or "non-critical parts" (scoops, cf wrap, lights, etc) should i go with the Gates off ebay? or Gates through someone else at a higher price? or buy each indivual part thru SGP.com at a even higher cost? each having its pros and cons as u can see.
BUMP!
#57
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Gates off ebay is fine... as long as it is a genuine gates kit they are all the same.
I opted to go with an OEM waterpump though instead of getting the gates kit with waterpump. The one that comes with the gates kit is GMB brand and not OEM. You can tell the difference when you hold them side by side.
I opted to go with an OEM waterpump though instead of getting the gates kit with waterpump. The one that comes with the gates kit is GMB brand and not OEM. You can tell the difference when you hold them side by side.
#58
Gates off ebay is fine... as long as it is a genuine gates kit they are all the same.
I opted to go with an OEM waterpump though instead of getting the gates kit with waterpump. The one that comes with the gates kit is GMB brand and not OEM. You can tell the difference when you hold them side by side.
I opted to go with an OEM waterpump though instead of getting the gates kit with waterpump. The one that comes with the gates kit is GMB brand and not OEM. You can tell the difference when you hold them side by side.
#59
Ive taken a look at some of the reviews of various different mounts out there for engine/tranny/pitchstop. My buddy who has an 04 STI was going to sell me his engine/tranny mounts @30k miles for 100. Its either that or Megan Racing mounts. Has anyone had experience with these? I know most of you will say: Go Groupe-N ya cheap bastard! well, I am, once the Megans wear out, hopefully around the time my full STI swap is ready to go in. at which point, Group-N everything will be added.
So, Megan Racing Engine/Tranny/Pitchstop mounts anyone?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impreza-WRX-95-07-5-Speed-Engine-Motor-Mounts-Megan-Racing-/330908520881?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item4d0baf51b1&vxp=mtr
As for the timing belt debacle, i have decided to buy the full Gates timing belt kit and sell the water pump if it does not fit. i also ordered an OEM water pump as back up.
So, Megan Racing Engine/Tranny/Pitchstop mounts anyone?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impreza-WRX-95-07-5-Speed-Engine-Motor-Mounts-Megan-Racing-/330908520881?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item4d0baf51b1&vxp=mtr
As for the timing belt debacle, i have decided to buy the full Gates timing belt kit and sell the water pump if it does not fit. i also ordered an OEM water pump as back up.
#60
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The gates waterpump will fit... but the quality of the waterpump is not the same.
GMB on the left, OEM on the right. Notice the stamped propeller fins on the GMB. Sorry for the partially out of focus picture. (Yes I know this is not your exact waterpump but it clearly shows the differnce between all GMB waterpumps I have seen vs OEM.
If you are going to by the Group-N mounts after the Megans wear out then why not just get the Group-N's from the get go?
Just curious... what do you like about the Megan mounts?
GMB on the left, OEM on the right. Notice the stamped propeller fins on the GMB. Sorry for the partially out of focus picture. (Yes I know this is not your exact waterpump but it clearly shows the differnce between all GMB waterpumps I have seen vs OEM.
If you are going to by the Group-N mounts after the Megans wear out then why not just get the Group-N's from the get go?
Just curious... what do you like about the Megan mounts?
Last edited by Harry Maneuvers; 05-02-2013 at 07:20 AM.