so i cant stop that much anymore after a track day, I have an extremely irritating noise which i think are called the squealers when the brakes get to 10%.

so i need some options, i thought my stock setup worked fine, however would get a bit soft after some track time or spirited driving.

what are some setups that are common for a daily driven, sometimes tracked and auto-x'ed car? and ive looked for brake lines, pads and rotors and i can only find b.b. upgrades. id like a cheaper way out of this if possible.

 

if your are pulsing i would recommend you replace them with mountain rotors. Axxis ultimates are great pads and cheap. Much better initial bite. However, they dust much more then oem. On the rear i would recommend the H6 brake upgrade with the axxis pads.

Put in some high quality brake fluid like ATE and you'll be alset. I think the braided brake lines are overkill and i didn't feel too much of an improvement after having done them.

 

what about some 06+ wrx calipers rotors and hawk pads? ive heard these brakes get mushy, but with hawk pads would that make a difference?
anyone have these that could give me some insight on them?

 

^ if you dont mind me asking, what kind of driving have you experienced with this setup? from what I understand, if you get your brake fluid up to high boiling temps on a summer day, the stock lines will not hold up too long. arent they like 80 bucks too?

 

Kragen carries Performance Friction. I got some new pads/rotors from them within a day. Price was cheaper than what I found it for online too.

 

I run the Mintex Xtremes with DBA4000 rotors and they have been nothing but great on the street and track. Again, this is a good balance of some light track duty with street capabilities, it is not a full out track setup. There really is no need to upgrade the rears to the H6 unless you are noticing the rears to get really hot. If you need to upgrade the rears there are better bolt on options than to go then the H6 setup.

I do not recommend ATE for track use. ATE boils very quickly if you are tracking. We only recommend NEO or AP Racing as two good fluids to run if you do any type of track events. Getting stainless steel brakes lines are highly recommended for any type of tracking.

Axxis Ultimates are a cheap pad, but the go through rotors fairly quick.

 

try mintex xtreme pads, they're awesome for street cars that see the track often. definitely do the brake lines and fluid, i recommend neo brake fluid, i have yet to boil those. hit up gary @ mann-engineering for brake parts, he really knows his stuff.

EDIT: ^^ he beat me to it. lol.

 

i just bought stop tech power slot rotors and hawk HPS pads off of JSCSpeed.com and i love the upgrade! im ordering steel braided brake lines this weekend and i think it will be a great addition to the pedal response for my occasional track days. its not to much money for an excellent mod.

 

Is there really a reason to get the stop tech stage two upgrade with OEM sized rotors? Like, is there actually a benefit towards the stoptech rotors as opposed to stock?

 

i have heard that rotors are not the major factor in an upgrade, unless you are running a fully dedicated track car of course, but I am in a tight spot for money right now, I am thinking of going with some napa/kragen type rotors, (raybestos) and either oem or hawk hps pads. I did have some trouble at the track with understeer, made some adjustments each session and still had not too much success with my wagon. I think, and i regret saying this due to me being a faithful suby owner, I may be looking into a miata or e30 for track use and daily the suby.

 

apex,

I've tracked (road course) my car at New hampshire motor speed way. It was a chilly day, mid 50's, but my ATE fluid never boiled and brakes felt fine. At the end of the day, my oem pads did start to feel alittle unnerving but they slowed the car down everytime.

The SS brake line install was just a pain in the butt, because after 100K, those flair nuts dont like coming off. I talked to a guy who works at DSG up here in New England, a very reputable scooby and Evo shop. He tracks an Evolution III, if i'm not mistaken but he said he's still got oem brake lines and doesn't find anything special about the stainless ones. I've also talked to a legacy wagon owner when i was up at the track and he said he rear goodwrich brake line actually sort of tweaked and sheared open.


I've had great success with mountain rotors btw.

 

I find that if you run an inferior rotor and an aggressive pad like the HAWK you can tear up rotors pretty fast. If you're trying to save money on rotors buy stock ones or get some brembo blanks or some other quality blank rotor. Going cheap on breaks is a bad idea.

Understeer is correctable and a lot cheaper than a new track car. Don't understand why you'd cheap out on breaks then be willing to buy a dedicated track car?

You should expect to replace a set of pads every track day and be prepared to replace other bits.

 

go to get-primitive.com.

they have some insanely great pads for great prices.
i am using there metal-master pads and love them to death, holy **** my car stops fast!

 

rotors and stainless steel brake lines help tremendously besides just changing thee pads.

stainless steel brake lines increase the firmness in the pedal feel. they do not expand like the oem ones do. Under heavy braking applications your oem brake lines will expand causing a weak braking feel. I remember changing to my steel ones and instantly noticed a difference in braking

 

i guess it is a live and learn situation, yet again... cracked the front left rotor after 10 miles of seaping the pads+rotors.

my friend on his track miata ran these napa's and he has been fine for the last 20k n 8 track days that is why i thought napa rotors should suffice.

i am hard on the cash and my option for a track car would be to keep my suby as a daily/ snow-mobile but no more cheap anything for me! i h8 it.

thanks for all the input guys, it did help give me more knowledge on this brake aspect of my suby. unfortunately i didnt listen too much because money talks too.. but like i said, live n learn.