What suspension stuff should I do with a $500 dollar limit?
#1
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Car Info: Blaze yellow WRX 2002
What suspension stuff should I do with a $500 dollar limit?
If I have $500 dollars to spend and I want to put it all into suspension what would you guys suggest to get? I already have front and rear strut tower bars.
#4
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Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
That's enough for Eibachs, RSB, and brake rotors, or almost enough for RSB and KYB AGXs. But definitely get the rear sway bar first, it has the biggest effect on your car's handling. By the way, is this an RS or WRX?
#8
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Yep. Sell the strut tower bars, then take the $500, add it to the proceeds and get some STi links for the rear, and a Cusco Type II lower brace for the front.
Your car will handle vastly better, with much more stability both into and out of the corner.
If you have a WRX sedan, you don't need sway bars. You already have an excellent, size-matched pair. Don't even get me started about strut tower bars. The STi package will include lateral/trailing/swaybar links, and should be able to be had for about $600. Depending upon how much you can actually sell the tower bars for, the Cusco lower brace is $150. If you have some extra dosh, add the STi front control arm bushings for improved steering response.
Here's the thing. Your struts and springs are fine, and well-matched in performance. You can add springs, but the life of the stock struts will be compromised, and ride quality problems will begin to manifest themselves as you spend more time on the springs/stock struts combo. And you still haven't addressed the things that really make the car work well, the other, less glamorous suspension bits, as I have suggested above.
Good luck,
Kevin
Your car will handle vastly better, with much more stability both into and out of the corner.
If you have a WRX sedan, you don't need sway bars. You already have an excellent, size-matched pair. Don't even get me started about strut tower bars. The STi package will include lateral/trailing/swaybar links, and should be able to be had for about $600. Depending upon how much you can actually sell the tower bars for, the Cusco lower brace is $150. If you have some extra dosh, add the STi front control arm bushings for improved steering response.
Here's the thing. Your struts and springs are fine, and well-matched in performance. You can add springs, but the life of the stock struts will be compromised, and ride quality problems will begin to manifest themselves as you spend more time on the springs/stock struts combo. And you still haven't addressed the things that really make the car work well, the other, less glamorous suspension bits, as I have suggested above.
Good luck,
Kevin
Last edited by gtguy; 02-20-2003 at 09:00 AM.
#9
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Car Info: Blaze yellow WRX 2002
gtguy - Can you explain that in more detali and list out items with part numbers or good descriptions and pricing.
Also places to purchase would be helpful.
Also places to purchase would be helpful.
#10
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Originally posted by jasno999
gtguy - Can you explain that in more detali and list out items with part numbers or good descriptions and pricing.
Also places to purchase would be helpful.
gtguy - Can you explain that in more detali and list out items with part numbers or good descriptions and pricing.
Also places to purchase would be helpful.
Both vendors that I mentioned also sell the front control arm bushings (it comes with the aluminum control arms) separately.
The Cusco lower brace will be to combat the tail-happiness that might manifest itself after you tighten up the back end with the STi bits (I needed it, but I have a wagon, too, which rotates better than the sedan).
Strut bars do nothing for the WRX sedan in 99.9% of driving situations. If you're racing, they'll work, but you probably already will have had a cage welded in.
The suspension parts that I have mentioned help turn-in immensely, giving you car that feeling of being mounted on a central pivot....it just turns, with no screwing around or resistance. In mid corner, the car will also be stable, because of the spherical bushings. Your back end stays where it it, without rubber bushings squirming around.
What more can I say? The stuff rocks, and it's STi, so the engineering is pretty darned close to perfect.
Kevin
#12
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Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally posted by subaruwrx511
eibach pro kit
front strut bar
rear strut bar
and a alignment
eibach pro kit
front strut bar
rear strut bar
and a alignment
#13
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About that tail-happiness...
gtguy,
Personally, I'm looking to get my car more tail-happy so what is it with these links that makes such a large difference?
I already have camber plates (front at -2 degrees, rear at -1.5 degrees), 22mm Perrin rear sway bar set on stiffest setting, cusco links, OZ Prodrive P1s with Yokohama AVS Sports and I still need the back end to come around more (I run the car as daily street driver and about once every two months out at Streets of Willow Springs race track) or maybe I need to get the front planted better somehow and then rotate the back end around it.
Thanks in advance!
--BA
Personally, I'm looking to get my car more tail-happy so what is it with these links that makes such a large difference?
I already have camber plates (front at -2 degrees, rear at -1.5 degrees), 22mm Perrin rear sway bar set on stiffest setting, cusco links, OZ Prodrive P1s with Yokohama AVS Sports and I still need the back end to come around more (I run the car as daily street driver and about once every two months out at Streets of Willow Springs race track) or maybe I need to get the front planted better somehow and then rotate the back end around it.
Thanks in advance!
--BA
#15
ALMOST stock
I am no expert, but as far as tuning the suspension goes, you should be able to increase understeer by adding a stiffer/larger anti-sway bar (lower) to the front end. that should "plant" the front end and make the car less tail-happy. and upper front stressbar (strut tower brace) will make transition faster and more precise. the wrx is pretty well balanced, so any changes you make will bias the car to your preference.
As you can see by my screen name i used to drive a VW jetta GLX. VW's have a LOT of understeer. This is good for short tight cornering under full throttle. As you know from autocrossing, a stock jetta/golf can eat up a stock RS on a compact course. no tuning change improves drivability under every condition. it is a matter of your preference for the "feel" of the car, and the conditions you drive in.
-X
As you can see by my screen name i used to drive a VW jetta GLX. VW's have a LOT of understeer. This is good for short tight cornering under full throttle. As you know from autocrossing, a stock jetta/golf can eat up a stock RS on a compact course. no tuning change improves drivability under every condition. it is a matter of your preference for the "feel" of the car, and the conditions you drive in.
-X