[QUOTE]Originally posted by Arnie
[B] Perhaps I should edit my post a bit. It does sound a bit like "this is the only and best way to do it". And I can't stand it when people sound that self righteous!

I didnt think that at all. Leave it.

 

I have read this thread and all the links completely. I am going to attemt to install my perrin springs myself when they come. Any info on making the rears camber adjustable as well. I know you need different bolts. Do they work the same as the fronts? Also i will have an alignment after this is done. Any info would help. Sorry to hord this post but this seemed a good place to ask my questions. Thanks.

 

arnie> what's your average total install time? i was quoted about 7 hrs and just wondering if it sounds right

 

7 hours?!!? that's pretty ridiculous. I hope that includes a very accurate alignment.

Fastest I ever swapped springs on a car was 45 minutes with one experienced friend helping. But I am averaging around 2-3 hours at a relaxed pace by myself while showing/teaching the owner how its done. Say 30-45 minutes per corner.

 

RE: camber bolts

yes, you can buy camber bolts from Whiteline (or one of their stockists) for the rear. They function similarly to the front bolts but since the rear strut holes are not designed for them, the bolts are a smaller diameter than stock. They are installed on the upper hole like the front. There is washer on the camber bolt that I've just discovered to be pretty important in keeping the adjustment from going out. The instructions correctly state which orientation it needs to be in for postive or negative camber. But, in installing a set on a car this last week I realized what was happening with the washer. The washer has this little nub on the inside. I did not realized what it was the for the last time I installed some and figured it just gets flattened on the install. Well, what happens is this little nub needs to lodge itself in the strut hole next to camber bolt. This nub actually pushes the bolt farther out or in the hole, depending on its orientation and actually provides the rough positioning for the positive or negative camber. Turning the bolt then provides the fine tuning of the camber. I know you can't even imagine what the hell I'm talking about but when you get these bolts, perhaps you will. Just ask again on this thread and hopefully I can walk you through it.

 

im sure this is easier than it sounds, but some installers only charge $125 to do this. for the time saved i might let them do it for me

 

that's a decent price. there are certainly a few details that one might forget when doing it for the first time. If you can go to a local install day and see how its done, it will take away most of the mystery. You might want to try it for the satisfaction of doing it. then again there's the satisfaction of paying someone else to do it, knowing its done right!

 

Anyone doing the air purge that it suggests to do in the manual? I skipped that step and have clunking in one of my front struts. Could the lack of air purge be the cause of this?

 

hmm, i was looking at that in the service manual. i've never done that. I suppose its possible that it might contribute to the clunking. Most clunking I've seen was usually a loose nut or bolt somewhere.

What setup are you running?

 

I'm stock. I had to replace soem struts because I may have bent one.

 

arnie how much do you charge to install a set of coilovers???

 

You were right Arnie, it was a loose top nut.

 

thejean - Great! At least you were able to locate and fix your problem. Countless others haven't been able to.

Christian - my charge for installing coilovers is pizza and a donation to the tool fund. The donation amount is up to you and how much you think the install is worth. As a ballpark, people have donated anywhere from $10 - $150.

 

arnie - i might have to hit you up for that install job soon....

<))><

 

okay! let me know as I'll be moving at the end of June.