Replacement OEM size rotors
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From: www.tristatetuners.com
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Replacement OEM size rotors
I need to replace my stock rotors. I have searched all over and have found many different kinds; slotted, drilled, slotted and drilled, slotted drilled and vented. Which will be the best under normal conditions? I do tons of highway driving, so high speed stops happen every day. Which company do you recommend among these; Stoptech, Carbotech, DBA, RacingBrakes?
I have also seen gold rotors. Will they stay gold or does the color wear off? I dont want gold brakes.
Should I just buy Subaru brakes?
I have also seen gold rotors. Will they stay gold or does the color wear off? I dont want gold brakes.
Should I just buy Subaru brakes?
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From: San Jose-near milpitas
Car Info: 03 Wrx black sedan + 2013 BRZ
For your driving just getting slotted rotors should be fine, don't think you would need drilled rotors unless you were really looking to save some weight. As for which brand I've heard nothing but good things about stop techs, those are the rotors I plan to get, in stock size, don't need a BBK kit yet, just want some slotted rotors on my car. I also have Stop Tech SS lines with some Motul Brake fluid in it with some Carbotech pads. My braking has felt much better. I'd also check out the stop tech site they have some good info on brakes in general.
Jason
Jason
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From what I understand drilled and slotted rotors are trying to accomplish the same thing, vent gas. When you break you tend to get a gas layer that builds up between the pads and the rotor. This layer prevents the brake pads from getting fully in contact with the rotors. The slotted or drilled rotors help prevent this layer of gas, by allowing the gas to escape, from forming allowing more pad to be in contact with the rotor allowing your brakes to perform better. This also means that your pads will wear faster because now more of the pad is doing work.
So getting slotted or drilled should net you the same results. Although I hear that drilled rotors are more prone to cracking, but a racing guy I know told me that when they get cracks in their rotors they are not worried until the crack actually reaches another hole. That's when they replace the rotors. Also I think cross drilled rotors might save you some more weight, I don't know if one would really notice the difference in performance from this weight savings in a street application, but it could be a good mental boost, also cross drilled rotors do look sporty.
Jason
So getting slotted or drilled should net you the same results. Although I hear that drilled rotors are more prone to cracking, but a racing guy I know told me that when they get cracks in their rotors they are not worried until the crack actually reaches another hole. That's when they replace the rotors. Also I think cross drilled rotors might save you some more weight, I don't know if one would really notice the difference in performance from this weight savings in a street application, but it could be a good mental boost, also cross drilled rotors do look sporty.
Jason
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Highly affordable brake mods
I am by no means rich and am sometimes quite suprised by the obscene amount of money some of the people on these forums seem to spend on some of the most worthless mods out there.
Sorry but I just had to say that.
I've done some small things that have made huge differences on my car. the MRT booster bracket is a little miracle, IMO, for how simple yet effetive it is. It definitely took a coulple feet of my 60-0 distance. Any "performance" pad you put in will be better than stock so just get what sounds good to you but you don't need to spend $100 for front pads alone. SS lines will also dramatically improve braking response as well as feel. Just changing you fluid regularly will do wonders for pedal feel/ modulation.
MRT bracket- $60 (can be found for real cheap)
Pads- $50-75 (say $150 for 4-wheel disc)
SS lines- less than $200 install if you have a good mechanic ($115 for the parts)
So say $450, high, to be safe and you've got a much more efficient braking system without any major changes (new calipers, rotors, ect.) I say start from the inside out because what's the use of a huge caliper and rotor if you've got the stock equipment trying to run it all? Adding too much stress/ workload to any stock part can get you in trouble when there's related aftermarket parts involved. Which part do you think would go first??
Sorry but I just had to say that.
I've done some small things that have made huge differences on my car. the MRT booster bracket is a little miracle, IMO, for how simple yet effetive it is. It definitely took a coulple feet of my 60-0 distance. Any "performance" pad you put in will be better than stock so just get what sounds good to you but you don't need to spend $100 for front pads alone. SS lines will also dramatically improve braking response as well as feel. Just changing you fluid regularly will do wonders for pedal feel/ modulation.
MRT bracket- $60 (can be found for real cheap)
Pads- $50-75 (say $150 for 4-wheel disc)
SS lines- less than $200 install if you have a good mechanic ($115 for the parts)
So say $450, high, to be safe and you've got a much more efficient braking system without any major changes (new calipers, rotors, ect.) I say start from the inside out because what's the use of a huge caliper and rotor if you've got the stock equipment trying to run it all? Adding too much stress/ workload to any stock part can get you in trouble when there's related aftermarket parts involved. Which part do you think would go first??
@Stoptech
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From: San Francisco, CA
Car Info: 2002 WRX Wagon
Check this out: http://www.stoptech.com/faq/data/faq15.html
Also, modern pads do not "out-gas" once they have been bedded in, as long as they are kept within their normal operating temperature range. If you're exceeding the upper limits of your pads, you're using the wrong pads.
Although drilled rotors do weigh less than slotted rotors, the difference in weight is negligible and extremely expensive hardware would be required in order to quantify the difference in performance due to weight between the two different types of rotors. Drilled rotors WILL crack sooner than their slotted counterparts under severe usage, fully negating any minute gains to be had in the mass and rotational inertia departments.
Tim
www.stoptech.com
Also, modern pads do not "out-gas" once they have been bedded in, as long as they are kept within their normal operating temperature range. If you're exceeding the upper limits of your pads, you're using the wrong pads.
Although drilled rotors do weigh less than slotted rotors, the difference in weight is negligible and extremely expensive hardware would be required in order to quantify the difference in performance due to weight between the two different types of rotors. Drilled rotors WILL crack sooner than their slotted counterparts under severe usage, fully negating any minute gains to be had in the mass and rotational inertia departments.
Tim
www.stoptech.com
@Stoptech
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From: San Francisco, CA
Car Info: 2002 WRX Wagon
Originally posted by Rallysportz
MRT bracket- $60 (can be found for real cheap)
Pads- $50-75 (say $150 for 4-wheel disc)
SS lines- less than $200 install if you have a good mechanic ($115 for the parts)
MRT bracket- $60 (can be found for real cheap)
Pads- $50-75 (say $150 for 4-wheel disc)
SS lines- less than $200 install if you have a good mechanic ($115 for the parts)
Even if you've got a 2003+ WRX, the Stage One gives you a very noticeable upgrade and still comes in at under $450 with the MRT brace included (we don't sell those, sorry). I think Rallysportz has definitely got the right idea.
I agree with Tim...The Stoptech Staged Kits are where you should be looking. They give you everything you need in one place and you get the excellent quality of it being one of the top brands out there! Many of my customers have gotten the Staged Kits and they love them!
If you are interested in getting one then let me know! Feel free to PM or email with any questions!
Thanks,
Brian
Flash N Dash Performance
If you are interested in getting one then let me know! Feel free to PM or email with any questions!
Thanks,
Brian
Flash N Dash Performance
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I got new rotors from cobaltfriction.com. They are nothing fancy no slotting or drilling and the quality is a step above the stock ones. They are cheap also $50 per rotor. You do not need slotting or holes or any of that stuff for normal driving. I track the car and don't feel that I need that stuff. But race cars have it so it must be what I need right. wrong!
Good pad replacement with solid oem type rotors and fluid change, I use the Sypower stuff you find at Autozone and that is all you need. You will marvel at how well your car brakes now and not spend that much money in return.
Good pad replacement with solid oem type rotors and fluid change, I use the Sypower stuff you find at Autozone and that is all you need. You will marvel at how well your car brakes now and not spend that much money in return.
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 28
From: Martinez, CA
Car Info: 04 STI
StopTech do and will continue to get ALL my business.
See my thread at:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=550430
See my thread at:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=550430
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,023
From: Phoenix, AZ
Car Info: Subaru Impreza WRX 2002
I also am interested in OEM-size rotors to be used with the existing calipers... however, I have one critera:
NO RUST.
My stock rotors are a solid rust-orange on every non-braking surface, and it makes me sick just to look at it. Someone must sell calipers that don't rust on the nonbraking surfaces -- who are they, and who do I have to kill to get a pair?
NO RUST.
My stock rotors are a solid rust-orange on every non-braking surface, and it makes me sick just to look at it. Someone must sell calipers that don't rust on the nonbraking surfaces -- who are they, and who do I have to kill to get a pair?