silver satin

iTrader: (7)

Well I was cautious about buying these because nobody had them but I was tired of listening to the stock STI pads squealing...Bought these from World One for a good price and I am VERY happy with them. First off after a week my wheels are have almost no dust on them, no squealing, no grinding noise and the initial bite on these is much better than stock. I did about 7-8 runs of up to 65mph down to 5mph and figured that was good enough. The bite is not to great when cold but when they warm up they stop so much better with the Stop-Tech SS lines and Motul600 fluid the brakes work like I feel they should. I bought the Project Mu NS if anybody is interested.

duo

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the post i was wondering..have you driven any other cars with different pads?

silver satin

iTrader: (7)

I have but not with Brembo's. On my RS I had Stop Tech SS lines Motul fluid and Axxis ultimate pads and they were very good much better than stock but other than that no but they do feel a lot better than stock and for now less dust and quieter.

Steppin Razor

iTrader: (5)

Did you install these pads front and rear or just front?

Also, did you ever bed the stock pads in?

Tim
www.stoptech.com

silver satin

iTrader: (7)

I installed front and rear and I beded them in by doing some 60-5mph stops without parking afterwards and staying off the brakes while they're hot was what I did and I am happy they work really great..

Steppin Razor

iTrader: (5)

Hmm, interesting. I'm glad they're working well for you.

Joel, it really depends quite a bit on what type and brand of pad you're bedding in. Most mellow, OE type pads will actually reach the temperature they require to deposit an even layer of pad material on the rotor in the course of normal driving, and are able to essentially bed themselves in whether or not the driver knows it's happening.

Other pads that have higher maximum operating temperatures (MOT) also require that a higher temperature be reached before they are able to deposit pad material on the rotors. Race pads often require a series of stops from 100mph in order for them to generate enough heat to bed themselves in.

Another consideration is whether your rotors have been used or if they're brand spanking new. With new rotors, you'll want to clean them off with copious amounts of brake cleaner, or by using Scotchbrite, soap, and water in order to remove the coating of anti-corrosive they receive at the factory. This is an important step that can contaminate the friction surfaces and cause quite a few problems, so take the time and do it right.

If your rotors are used, the best bet is always to use the same friction material you've been using, otherwise you risk a destructive reaction between the old and new friction materials. Even when changing from street to race pads at the track, you're putting yourself at the mercy of the gods of friction because the first time you try a new combination of friction, you really have no way of knowing whether the two compounds will be compatible.

With that having been said, if you're using Ultimates on new rotors, two bedding cycles of ten successive decelerations from 60 to 5mph with no break in between decels and without ever coming to a complete stop. Allow the system to cool to ambient temperatures after each cycle of ten stops. If you've already got a layer of Ultimate on the rotors, one cycle of ten stops is all that should be required, as your primary goal is to green fade the pads, or to burn off the excess bonding resins and contaminants trapped in the pad material rather than to establish an even transfer layer.

Comprendo?

Steppin Razor

iTrader: (5)

When cleaning rotors, I would either do brake cleaner OR soap, water, and Scotchbrite. I have no idea what brake cleaner does when it reacts with Scotchbrite... could be scary stuff.

Also, it's a great idea to have a separate set of rotors for the track. That way you can run whatever race friction you want at the track without being afraid that it won't be compatible with your street friction.

Finally, any pad that works well on the street can fairly easily be overheated at the track. There is no such thing as a pad that stops well cold, has a race-worthy MOT, has a race-worthy coefficient of friction, doesn't make noise, and doesn't dust. If there were, whoever invented it would be selling a $hitload of brake pads.

What I'm trying to say is that if the Project Mu brake pads that were spoken about earlier in this thread work well for a street performance application, I wouldn't even think about taking them to the track. You'll likely end up with nasty vibration or noise and you may even end up killing your rotors.

Unless you've got money to spare, I would stick with a proven race pad that has known properties rather than shelling out big bucks for a totally unknown race pad that may or may not have the properties you're looking for. From what I hear, Project Mu has a good name in the industry, but I haven't heard anything at all about their friction, and friction is a VERY tricky business. Hope that helps.

Tim
www.stoptech.com

silver satin

iTrader: (7)

Well I'm happy to say that after two weeks my wheels are still clean (kinda it rained here) but no where as bad as they would have been with the stock pads...

qwk_wrx

iTrader: (4)

i have heard some good stuff about carbotech too...

i think subydude has em for the STI too...