DBA in the USA
Registered User
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,859
From: Flying on the H1 w/ 75 psi of compression on all 4 cyl
Car Info: PnP VF30 w/ STi injectors Perrin intake walbro fuel pump w/ a TXS TBE
i think it be a great idea especially if prices will go down a bit and you would be nicer to the guys in hawaii on shipping cost that would make thing even better.
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,341
From: your friendly neighborhood hairpin
Car Info: '03 PSM Sedan
Mark,
i don't suppose you'd be able to answer some of the questions here in the forums about DBA's products would you? i've got a couple of questions about some of your guys' rotors....
i don't suppose you'd be able to answer some of the questions here in the forums about DBA's products would you? i've got a couple of questions about some of your guys' rotors....
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,341
From: your friendly neighborhood hairpin
Car Info: '03 PSM Sedan
snipped from the 'DBA 4xxx rotors' thread
are they effective at reducing or eliminating brake fade during aggressive driving?
what pads are you using with them?
how do they compare with the DBA 6xx series rotors, powerslots, brembo/mountains etc.?
what pads are you using with them?
how do they compare with the DBA 6xx series rotors, powerslots, brembo/mountains etc.?
Guest
Posts: n/a
The 4000 series are designed and manufactured to help eliminate judder, fade and warpage. They run approx 10-15% cooler than more traditional rotors, mainly due to our patent Kangaroo paw vent design.
As for pads, any pad works well, but pads should be selected depending on what you are doing with the vehicle. Street, track, or circuit racing require different pad grade, as long it is a leading reputable manufacturer, and does not have a heavy bonding resin compound. Some do, and leaves deposits on the pad face, and causing vibration under braking. If you private message me, I can name the brand, but not appropriate here.
As for comparision to Brembo, Mountain, etc, I am biased, but can say, that we have taken extra steps in designing the rotor, formulating the cast iron material, (we have our own foundry), and extensive testing, to produce a world leading disc rotor.
Hope this helps, but please visit our website, www.dba.com.au and take the time to look at exactly what we do.
Cheers,
Mark.
As for pads, any pad works well, but pads should be selected depending on what you are doing with the vehicle. Street, track, or circuit racing require different pad grade, as long it is a leading reputable manufacturer, and does not have a heavy bonding resin compound. Some do, and leaves deposits on the pad face, and causing vibration under braking. If you private message me, I can name the brand, but not appropriate here.
As for comparision to Brembo, Mountain, etc, I am biased, but can say, that we have taken extra steps in designing the rotor, formulating the cast iron material, (we have our own foundry), and extensive testing, to produce a world leading disc rotor.
Hope this helps, but please visit our website, www.dba.com.au and take the time to look at exactly what we do.
Cheers,
Mark.
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,341
From: your friendly neighborhood hairpin
Car Info: '03 PSM Sedan
If you private message me, I can name the brand, but not appropriate here.
would it be your opinion that the 4000s are adequete for aggressive street driving, and occasional autocross/track events when used with the proper pad, or should i be looking at the two piece rotors?
Guest
Posts: n/a
The 4000 series will suit the application and the conditions you described.
But make sure all pads are bedded in properly, and that discs are brought up to operating temperature before aggressive track use.
If not, then you will cause a condition called thermal shock. This is when the disc is cold, then sudden injection of heat from hard braking occurs. It is the same principle as dropping a ice cube into a glass of water, sudden temperature change can cause cracking.
Remember always warm up and cool down rotors before and after aggressive track/circuit use.
Cheers,
Mark.
But make sure all pads are bedded in properly, and that discs are brought up to operating temperature before aggressive track use.
If not, then you will cause a condition called thermal shock. This is when the disc is cold, then sudden injection of heat from hard braking occurs. It is the same principle as dropping a ice cube into a glass of water, sudden temperature change can cause cracking.
Remember always warm up and cool down rotors before and after aggressive track/circuit use.
Cheers,
Mark.
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,341
From: your friendly neighborhood hairpin
Car Info: '03 PSM Sedan
mark,
great, thanks for the info. i've spent enough time on racetracks to know to make good use of the warmup and cooldown laps before and after a track session.
great, thanks for the info. i've spent enough time on racetracks to know to make good use of the warmup and cooldown laps before and after a track session.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by dropkick_muppet
would it be your opinion that the 4000s are adequete for aggressive street driving, and occasional autocross/track events when used with the proper pad, or should i be looking at the two piece rotors? [/B]
would it be your opinion that the 4000s are adequete for aggressive street driving, and occasional autocross/track events when used with the proper pad, or should i be looking at the two piece rotors? [/B]
We developed the t/piece disc to help reduce heat around the hub/wheel bearings as well as added weight reduction. These discs are made to the same spec as the 4000's.
MRT use these rotors on their rally cars.
Steve.
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,341
From: your friendly neighborhood hairpin
Car Info: '03 PSM Sedan
Steve,
thanks, that's really quite helpful. i had no idea that the actual discs on the 4000s and the 5000s were essentially the same, save for the aluminum hat. i'm guessing that i won't be generating enough heat to cook the wheel bearings, so i'll probably just go with a set of 4000s.
thanks, that's really quite helpful. i had no idea that the actual discs on the 4000s and the 5000s were essentially the same, save for the aluminum hat. i'm guessing that i won't be generating enough heat to cook the wheel bearings, so i'll probably just go with a set of 4000s.


