Caster - Anti lift kit, and coilovers - do I really need both?
#1
Caster - Anti lift kit, and coilovers - do I really need both?
Ok, so heres a question. If the point of the anti lift kit is to add positive caster, and as far as I know, one can adjust caster with coilovers, then would that make it pointless to get an ALK with coilovers already installed? Just a bit of clashing logic in my head here....Yes I have been making bunches of threads but they are all legit ...for the most part :P.
#2
Struts/shock/coil overs don't adjust caster themselves. Maybe if you bolt them up wrong or something crazy. With struts you can adjust some camber and the various degrees of dampening. Caster is a geometry adjustment. Like control arms or camber/caster plates.
#3
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The point of the ALK is not just to add caster.... it's the removal of the anti-lift geometry. The extra 0.5 degrees of positive caster is a side benefit.
If you just wanted to add caster you could fidget with your camber plates or use the whiteline offset control arm bushings.
If you just wanted to add caster you could fidget with your camber plates or use the whiteline offset control arm bushings.
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What the ALK does is lower the rear mount point of the control arm and as mentioned above, this removes the anti-lift geometry. When you get on the brakes hard, the angle of the control arms effectively makes that force (pulling rearward on the contact patches) pull the suspension downward to counter-act the natural nose-diving effect of braking. When you add the ALK, this is gone and the control arms/wheels move up and down with no fore/aft movement. I have heard this is also better for your struts/coilovers but I dunno about that.
I had a ALK installed on my RS and it made the turn-in much more crisp and IMHO really improved things like quick maneuvers and lane changes. Tons more fun down HWY 9 for example, but I also did struts/springs too so... Only drawback is seriously loud on bumps and those freeway dots, but no biggy to me.
I had a ALK installed on my RS and it made the turn-in much more crisp and IMHO really improved things like quick maneuvers and lane changes. Tons more fun down HWY 9 for example, but I also did struts/springs too so... Only drawback is seriously loud on bumps and those freeway dots, but no biggy to me.
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i think it'll still make a noticeable difference, at the cost of adding a bit more noise and vibration to your setup. if that's of no concern to you, i say you go ahead and get it.
from what i've heard and experienced, go with the whiteline kit if you were to buy an alk. the perrin psrs system comes with stock metal bushings and makes the ride crazy rigid. just thought i'd throw that in there.
from what i've heard and experienced, go with the whiteline kit if you were to buy an alk. the perrin psrs system comes with stock metal bushings and makes the ride crazy rigid. just thought i'd throw that in there.
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For a daily driver I would go with the sport ALK. It will help reduce the understeer that the AWD produces resulting in a tighter handling car, and is not as rigid as the Race ALK so you can still have some comfort when driving.
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