http://www.wrxfanatics.com/index.php?showtopic=29454

good luck! I'm going to be doing the same this week. You would probobly want to consider switching to sythetic fluid and stainless steel lines while youve got the wheels off and you AT LEAST want to turn those rotors if not replace them. Have Fun.

 

You don't HAVE to change your fluid when you change your pads, but it's a good idea if you haven't done it recently.

The lines can be changed with the car on ramps, but then you HAVE to change your fluid.

I don't change my rotors unless there is unnevenness while braking.

Pads are easy to change, a good 'welcome to mechanic-ing'

 

I know there will probably be disagreement but I don't ever have my rotors turned. If they have excessive runout that I can feel during hard braking due to wear or pad material buildup, I will just replace them with either another set of DBA 650 slotted series or the DBA 5010 SL (slotted) with an aluminum hat for some weight savings.

I don't like to have rotors turned because it reduces rotor mass that helps dissipate the enormous amount of heat under hard braking. That's why the factory specifies a minimal thickness to OEM rotors. I also think that even for street use, a turned rotor might not be up to the task of extended downhill grades under certain conditions. The OEM pads can be induced to fade during one hard application going downhill (I've done it).

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0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

 

I've done it too...about 2-3 turns comming down mt. hammy. I agree about not turning the rotors. Also if you already have slotted or cross-drilled rotors they can't be turned...once they are warped they need to be replaced.