i dont know where or how to change my water pump some one please help

 

It's located under the timing covers and is driven by the timing belt. For this reason it is usually changed when the timing belt is serviced since the same labor is required to access it.
You'd only change it by itself if it was leaking or was otherwise defective. If you do have a problem with the pump and need to replace it, do the timing belt while you're in there unless it's been done very recently.

 

i just changed my timing belt a year ago do i still need to change if it was done recently. yes my water punp is not working it keep overheating i changed my thermostat and it did not fix the problem.

 

How do you know it's the water pump? Sounds like you are just guessing and may be doing a time-consuming repair for nothing.
If you have one of the Phase 1 twin-cam motors in your 98, these are notorious for bad head gaskets and I'd bet that is your actual problem. You can search around the forums here and at NASIOC as this is a common issue that has been posted about many times.

 

how do i find out if it a head gasket

 

just took a half hour doing a write up for you and lost it....
first off
to check your head gasket
uncap your radiator and start your car if you see it bubbling like crazy you have a bad gasket. if you (over time) notice a drop in coolent or an increase in oil its mostlikely bad.
if you want something more solid go find an auto store that will rent out a radiator pressure checker.
pump the checker up to 15 psi if it drops drasticly you have a leak some where and if you cant see it its mostlikely the head gasket. start the car with the cheker in place if the pressure jumps drastically its the head gasket...
i will post soon with waterpump replacement writeup.

 

Water pump replacement without changing timing belt.
Drain coolant
Remove radiator
Remove accessory belts and belt tensioner that hangs in front of timing belt cover.
Remove bolt holding on crank pulley. This will be a pain but its easy if you have a manual. The bolt is regular thread (lefty loosy) just very tight. If you have a manual put the car into 5th gear and pull the ebrake and loosen it and remove bolt. I have no clue how you can do it If you don’t have a manual.
With bolt removed pull pulley off.
Remove timing belt cover
Rotate engine until the straight marks on the pullies (crank and cam pullies) are all pointed straight up.
Mark on the belt with a paint pen or grease pencil where the marks on the pullies are.
Draw an arrow on the timing belt pointing to the drivers side fender.
Take a clamp and squeeze the belt to put a bit more tension on the timing belt tensioner.
(The timing belt tensioner is hydraulic, meaning if you simply remove it, it will spring to a relaxed position and will be a pain to re-compress.)
With the extra tension on the belt you will notice 3 holes on the top of the tensioner that should be lined up, one on the front of the casing one on the rod in the middle and one on the back of the casing, put a drill bit of the appropriate size thru the three holes.
With the pin in place remove the clamp… there should be a bit of slack in the belt at this point.
Unbolt the tensioner and remove it. Don’t be shocked if the cam pullies spring to a new position. Because of the valve springs putting pressure on the cams they will spring to the nearest nutral setting.
With the belt removed you can easily remove your waterpump and replace it… this is a good time to check the rest of your ideler pullies turn them over by hand if they feel or sound “gritty” its time to replace them.
Reassemble engine in reverse order…

Afiew quick notes:
When you put your timeing belt back on make sure that you put it on with the arrow pointed twards the drivers fender again (this will ensure the correct rotation).
Make sure that when you put the belt back on you make sure the marks you maid earler line up with the correct marks on the pullies.

Once you have the belt on and the tensioner in place with the pin pulled out thred the crank pully bolt into the crank and using a sockit wrech turn the engine over… It shood be easier to turn over in some spots than others. If you run into a spot where the engine can no longer be turned over using the wrench back it up and make sure the marks you made on the belt match up exactly with the correct marks on the pullies…
Before you attempt to start the car make sure you can turn the engine with the wrench at least 5 full roations.

The reason most shops replace a timeing belt along with the waterpump other than labor is because the stock Subaru belt will have all the markings on it to line up the timeing.

This is definetly a job that needs to be done correctly if not you may damage your engine by trying to start it with improper timing.

 

strange things are happening, now it is not overheating at all.Isthis wierd or what i am still going to check the head gasket with the pressure checker. thanks for you time and post let me know what u think about this.

 

usualy when a water pump goes bad or is on the border of going bad you will notice your temp guage climb when you are sitting at a light and when you get roling it will cool down or when you rev the engine a bit it will cool down a bit... on the other hand if you have a fan out no matter how much revving you do at a light it wont cool back down ... only moving around getting air thru it will help it out..
pop your hood and look at the radiator fans while some one in the car switches it from off to run position but not starting it... both fans should run for a bit ... this is a check cycle ... make sure both spin when you do this.
In my mind its got to be eater water pump, issues with the fans, blockage in the radiator or an air bubble in the system.
I think the water pump is most likely but if you have a head gasket on the way out too it would be easy just to replace them along with the water pump... be a good idea especially if you have 100,000 miles +