2002 wrx seeking answers.
06-07-2007, 05:07 PM
#1
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Car Info: 2002 MBP WRX
2002 wrx seeking answers.
Hey guys,
I recently bought this 2002 MBP wrx back in February of this year. It only has about 63,000 - 64,000 miles on it now when I bought it it had about 60,000.
My concerns are as follows:
A/C doesn't seem to work. He put a front strut brace in, but I'm unsure if he reloacted the A/C line or simply removed it. Maybe it just needs a recharge if there is a line?
My shifter has an annoying rattling noise like 2 metal things hitting eachother, suggestions?
My BRAKE light in the gauge cluster is on, does anybody know why or what needs to happen to fix it? Sometimes it won't come on till I hit about 40mph-60mph (I do a lot of freeway driving)
My Driver and Passenger side front windows squeel (I'm assuming water or something?) I was planning on taking the panels off and checking it out when I get free time. Suggestions would be great.
The front passenger door handle to open the door doesn't spring back to the door (the lever will open door but not retract back to re-use until the door is closed. Is it just a little spring that needs to be put in?
I need to fix the armrest extension top piece, it doesn't lock to the topmost console (which flips up as well to reveal the normal storage bin)
Also, the engine seems to be running fairly hot, I just did all new brakes and have new fluid so I won't bother with that, and I need to do another oil change soon at 2,500 miles.
Since i'm at 66k should I just have the tune-up done and where? GST?
Sorry for the complaints but I really need some help to get these bugs fixed.
Thanks in advance!
Kevin
I recently bought this 2002 MBP wrx back in February of this year. It only has about 63,000 - 64,000 miles on it now when I bought it it had about 60,000.
My concerns are as follows:
A/C doesn't seem to work. He put a front strut brace in, but I'm unsure if he reloacted the A/C line or simply removed it. Maybe it just needs a recharge if there is a line?
My shifter has an annoying rattling noise like 2 metal things hitting eachother, suggestions?
My BRAKE light in the gauge cluster is on, does anybody know why or what needs to happen to fix it? Sometimes it won't come on till I hit about 40mph-60mph (I do a lot of freeway driving)
My Driver and Passenger side front windows squeel (I'm assuming water or something?) I was planning on taking the panels off and checking it out when I get free time. Suggestions would be great.
The front passenger door handle to open the door doesn't spring back to the door (the lever will open door but not retract back to re-use until the door is closed. Is it just a little spring that needs to be put in?
I need to fix the armrest extension top piece, it doesn't lock to the topmost console (which flips up as well to reveal the normal storage bin)
Also, the engine seems to be running fairly hot, I just did all new brakes and have new fluid so I won't bother with that, and I need to do another oil change soon at 2,500 miles.
Since i'm at 66k should I just have the tune-up done and where? GST?
Sorry for the complaints but I really need some help to get these bugs fixed.
Thanks in advance!
Kevin
06-07-2007, 08:00 PM
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,646
Car Info: 02 WRX WRB
A/C doesn't seem to work. He put a front strut brace in, but I'm unsure if he reloacted the A/C line or simply removed it. Maybe it just needs a recharge if there is a line?
No way to answer this without being able to check out the car in person. Best to have a shop look at it, if the system has been empty and/or exposed to the atmosphere for some time it may need more than a simple recharge. Also if there is a leak it has to be found and fixed. A completely missing line would be a bad thing as it would let moisture and dirt get inside the system.
My shifter has an annoying rattling noise like 2 metal things hitting eachother, suggestions?
Is the shifter stock, or aftermarket? Short throw shifters tend to rattle especially if they are not installed or maintained correctly. Proper torquing and lubrication of the lever pivot bolt are very important for good shift feel and quiet operation.
My BRAKE light in the gauge cluster is on, does anybody know why or what needs to happen to fix it? Sometimes it won't come on till I hit about 40mph-60mph (I do a lot of freeway driving)
Your brake fluid is low. Since you mention just having done pads this rules out the usual cause which is worn pads. You may just need to add a bit more fluid.
My Driver and Passenger side front windows squeel (I'm assuming water or something?) I was planning on taking the panels off and checking it out when I get free time. Suggestions would be great.
This is usually from the rubber triangle next to the mirror. You can apply a very small amount of Armor-All or a similar product to the inside lip of the rubber where it contacts the glass, this should keep it quiet for a while. You may have to wipe off the excess as the window is raised and lowered for a while afterward.
The front passenger door handle to open the door doesn't spring back to the door (the lever will open door but not retract back to re-use until the door is closed. Is it just a little spring that needs to be put in?
Not sure exactly where the spring is but you'll have to take the door panel off to investigate.
I need to fix the armrest extension top piece, it doesn't lock to the topmost console (which flips up as well to reveal the normal storage bin)
Also, the engine seems to be running fairly hot, I just did all new brakes and have new fluid so I won't bother with that, and I need to do another oil change soon at 2,500 miles.
What makes you think it's running hot? Is the temp gauge reading high or is it just because it's hot under the hood?
Since i'm at 66k should I just have the tune-up done and where? GST?
Do you have any service documentation on the car to indicate what services have been done? If not then the 60K service should be performed as per the service schedule in the manual or on the Subaru website. You can go to a dealer, independent shop or your own driveway.
No way to answer this without being able to check out the car in person. Best to have a shop look at it, if the system has been empty and/or exposed to the atmosphere for some time it may need more than a simple recharge. Also if there is a leak it has to be found and fixed. A completely missing line would be a bad thing as it would let moisture and dirt get inside the system.
My shifter has an annoying rattling noise like 2 metal things hitting eachother, suggestions?
Is the shifter stock, or aftermarket? Short throw shifters tend to rattle especially if they are not installed or maintained correctly. Proper torquing and lubrication of the lever pivot bolt are very important for good shift feel and quiet operation.
My BRAKE light in the gauge cluster is on, does anybody know why or what needs to happen to fix it? Sometimes it won't come on till I hit about 40mph-60mph (I do a lot of freeway driving)
Your brake fluid is low. Since you mention just having done pads this rules out the usual cause which is worn pads. You may just need to add a bit more fluid.
My Driver and Passenger side front windows squeel (I'm assuming water or something?) I was planning on taking the panels off and checking it out when I get free time. Suggestions would be great.
This is usually from the rubber triangle next to the mirror. You can apply a very small amount of Armor-All or a similar product to the inside lip of the rubber where it contacts the glass, this should keep it quiet for a while. You may have to wipe off the excess as the window is raised and lowered for a while afterward.
The front passenger door handle to open the door doesn't spring back to the door (the lever will open door but not retract back to re-use until the door is closed. Is it just a little spring that needs to be put in?
Not sure exactly where the spring is but you'll have to take the door panel off to investigate.
I need to fix the armrest extension top piece, it doesn't lock to the topmost console (which flips up as well to reveal the normal storage bin)
Also, the engine seems to be running fairly hot, I just did all new brakes and have new fluid so I won't bother with that, and I need to do another oil change soon at 2,500 miles.
What makes you think it's running hot? Is the temp gauge reading high or is it just because it's hot under the hood?
Since i'm at 66k should I just have the tune-up done and where? GST?
Do you have any service documentation on the car to indicate what services have been done? If not then the 60K service should be performed as per the service schedule in the manual or on the Subaru website. You can go to a dealer, independent shop or your own driveway.
06-07-2007, 10:34 PM
#3
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The shifter is OEM , The brake fluid resevoir is full for sure (The brake light was coming on BEFORE I did the brake changes (this was new pads, rotors, SS lines and dot4 brake fluid) Under hood it feels like it's running really hot. And I'll check the documentation when I'm home around 11:30pm (work =[ )
06-08-2007, 10:02 PM
#5
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Car Info: 02 WRX WRB
Well an OEM shifter shouldn't rattle, unless something is wrong or it's been messed with. Are you sure it's stock and not the factory short shifter? Those can rattle under acceleration since they don't have the rubber damper in the lever like the stock shifter does. My advice regarding aftermarket ones still applies, check the pivot bolt for proper torque (8 ft-lbs, no more) and make sure it's well lubed with lithium grease or something similar.
It is normal for the underhood temps to be pretty hot, that alone doesn't indicate a problem. You can check the coolant level and if a scanner is available the live data from the ECU can be read to see what coolant temps are being reported. You can't tell much from the gauge as it will remain in the center over a wide range of temps.
If the brake fluid is full and the light is still coming on intermittently, you may have a sticking level sensor/float unit. One way to find out is to locate the wire going into the reservoir, and unplug it. If the light goes out and stays out, you probably need a new sensor. If it still comes on, there may be a problem with the emergency brake switch or the wiring.
It is normal for the underhood temps to be pretty hot, that alone doesn't indicate a problem. You can check the coolant level and if a scanner is available the live data from the ECU can be read to see what coolant temps are being reported. You can't tell much from the gauge as it will remain in the center over a wide range of temps.
If the brake fluid is full and the light is still coming on intermittently, you may have a sticking level sensor/float unit. One way to find out is to locate the wire going into the reservoir, and unplug it. If the light goes out and stays out, you probably need a new sensor. If it still comes on, there may be a problem with the emergency brake switch or the wiring.
06-09-2007, 01:33 PM
#6
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It might be a factory short shifter, I am unable to tell, the previous owner never mentioned changing the shifter so I assumed OEM. If I ordered an aftermarket shifter like a kartboy short shifter, and make sure it's lubed will it rattle still? I'm going to be buying an Accesport2 soon so i'll have the car tuned. Plus I need to get the 63k mileage tune up done and new belts. Would it be beneficial to just get better belts and lighter pullies?
Any idea where the whire that goes to the resevoir would be? Is it in the engine bay or interior?
Kevin
Any idea where the whire that goes to the resevoir would be? Is it in the engine bay or interior?
Kevin
06-09-2007, 01:55 PM
#7
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Car Info: 02 WRX WRB
You can tell if you have the factory short throw by looking at the lever, or just by feeling it under the boot. If it's thin (and gold colored if you unscrew the **** and look at it) then it's the short throw. If it's about an inch thick, gray/silver with a rubber center section it's the stock shifter.
Should you decide to get a different aftermarket lever it's important to know if you have the short throw or stock, since the short throw uses a narrower linkage from the earlier model Imprezas ('01-earlier). You would therefore need a lever to fit those years and NOT '02-up.
There really aren't any better belts than the OEM ones, I'd suggest just getting them from a dealer as they aren't that expensive. 60K might be a bit early to change them but it can't hurt.
Pullies won't do all that much for you, maybe go with lightweight but stock size so you can still use stock belts and not underdrive the alternator. Note that the combination of a lightweight pulley plus a light flywheel can set false misfire codes.
Just look at the master cylinder reservoir, you'll see the wire coming out. There is a connector there you can unplug, that will disconnect the level sensor.
Should you decide to get a different aftermarket lever it's important to know if you have the short throw or stock, since the short throw uses a narrower linkage from the earlier model Imprezas ('01-earlier). You would therefore need a lever to fit those years and NOT '02-up.
There really aren't any better belts than the OEM ones, I'd suggest just getting them from a dealer as they aren't that expensive. 60K might be a bit early to change them but it can't hurt.
Pullies won't do all that much for you, maybe go with lightweight but stock size so you can still use stock belts and not underdrive the alternator. Note that the combination of a lightweight pulley plus a light flywheel can set false misfire codes.
Just look at the master cylinder reservoir, you'll see the wire coming out. There is a connector there you can unplug, that will disconnect the level sensor.
06-10-2007, 06:32 AM
#8
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Before you get all wrapped around the axle because no one seems to want to help you, it seems someone has already adequately addressed your problems. How many of the fixes provided have you followed up on? Did they work or not? I certainly don't hear any GRATITUDE for the help which has been provided to you. Go buy yourself a maintenance manual at ebay motors. Get into action and quick flappin your whiny jaws. How many solutions do you need repeated?
07-23-2007, 08:20 PM
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Before you get all wrapped around the axle because no one seems to want to help you, it seems someone has already adequately addressed your problems. How many of the fixes provided have you followed up on? Did they work or not? I certainly don't hear any GRATITUDE for the help which has been provided to you. Go buy yourself a maintenance manual at ebay motors. Get into action and quick flappin your whiny jaws. How many solutions do you need repeated?
Don't hijack threads.
(Yes I know this thread is old)
I've done a few of the suggestions and yes they have been very helpful. The shifter is OEM not the short throw. I haven't had time to work on the car really so I'll try to get on it this weekend.
My uncle and I have been working on the A/C. we used his hvac system to vacuum it out, we found a leak, fixed it and there was another. We think the previous owner bent the in line near the back of the intercooler when installing the (I think EBAY) front strut bar.
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