new owner
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new owner
just picked up a bootyful 04 wrx, sunroof, heated seats, ugly spoiler thats for sale if anyones intrested (los angeles)
my question is how long is the breaking in process? im keeping it at under 3000 rpm. when do i change the oil? when do i change the oil after i break it in?
my question is how long is the breaking in process? im keeping it at under 3000 rpm. when do i change the oil? when do i change the oil after i break it in?
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I'm pretty sure the break-in is 1000 miles. Keep 'er under 4000rpm or so. When you do your first oil change it should be near the normal 3000 mile mark. After that I was told wait till 10000 miles before putting Synthetic oil in so the engine has a chance to fully wear in. 
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 56
From: orange county, CA
Car Info: 2004 wrx
anthony at timmons subaru(cool service dude) reccomends regular oil at 5000, and synthetic at 10000. He suggested not changing the oil early, although he wasnt quite sure why.
I am pretty sure it is because of the lubricant that they use when they put it together, but I could be wrong.
Like the previous poster said, try and keep it under 4k for 1000 miles. Its tough, but do your best
I am pretty sure it is because of the lubricant that they use when they put it together, but I could be wrong.
Like the previous poster said, try and keep it under 4k for 1000 miles. Its tough, but do your best
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 155
From: So. California
Car Info: 2004 PSM Impreza WRX
Originally posted by Opusxer
why'd you buy it with the spoiler on it if you were going to sell it?
why'd you buy it with the spoiler on it if you were going to sell it?
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 461
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car Info: 04 Java Black Sedan
Just beat the hell out of it. There has been research that shows on new cars, beating on them from day one causes less HP loss and better engine longevity than performing a dealer recomended break in. Look at this site and read...
http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm
http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm
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Posts: 9,016
From: Oakland, CA
Car Info: 2009 wrx & 2000 4runner
welcome to i-club
ever notice that anytime that method is referred to that it is only refering to motorcycles. i have never seen any type of documentation refering to a hard break in for an automobile engine.
a bunch of engineers at subaru determined that the best way to break in their engines is to keep it under 4k rpm for the first 1000 miles. why do people discredit this and say its not the best way?
in no way am i saying that either way is right or wrong. just noting an observation that i have made regarding this topic.
Originally posted by theworx
Just beat the hell out of it. There has been research that shows on new cars, beating on them from day one causes less HP loss and better engine longevity than performing a dealer recomended break in. Look at this site and read...
http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm
Just beat the hell out of it. There has been research that shows on new cars, beating on them from day one causes less HP loss and better engine longevity than performing a dealer recomended break in. Look at this site and read...
http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm
a bunch of engineers at subaru determined that the best way to break in their engines is to keep it under 4k rpm for the first 1000 miles. why do people discredit this and say its not the best way?
in no way am i saying that either way is right or wrong. just noting an observation that i have made regarding this topic.
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Posts: 9,016
From: Oakland, CA
Car Info: 2009 wrx & 2000 4runner
Originally posted by theworx
You apparently did not read what he had to say on that site. Go back and read it in its entirety, then "think outside the box!"
You apparently did not read what he had to say on that site. Go back and read it in its entirety, then "think outside the box!"
i have read it. and as i said, i was just making a comment about an observation. i didn't say that the guy that wrote that is wrong. he says that you should do it on cars as well. my comment was that i haven't seen any testing on cars, thats all.
i guess i may not have worded it best.
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From: Oakland, CA
Car Info: 2009 wrx & 2000 4runner
Originally posted by whitelegacy98
I agree with wrx ish, until I see something more conclusive I'd stick w/ the recomended break in
I agree with wrx ish, until I see something more conclusive I'd stick w/ the recomended break in
my personal view on it. i have mixed feelings on it. go back and forth on some things. so i havn't decided which way i think is the best
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Back in the 60's my dad built a Big Block 396 (Chevelle SS), and for the break-in he drove the hell out of it (before I was born, he just told me about it). Apparently the wisdom of the day within the racer comunity was break it in hard for top notch performance.
When I took delivery of a Formula in '95 (LT-1 V8), I asked them about break in and was told to just drive the **** out of it. I did. By the end of the break in I was getting 30 mpg highway and judging by memory, it felt much faster than the low mileage perfect condition '95 Trans Am I bought years later.
But if you go by manufacturers recommendations, keep it under 4 grand AND vary the rpms. Don't drive down the highway at a constant speed for long distances and NO cruise control. Use regular oil for the first few oil changes to let all the metal parts mate together, then change to synthetic. Personally, I use synthetic blend here in FL. Even with 10-30 the full synthetic seems too thin for South Florida weather that almost never gets below 65*. Than and I hate the idea of paying full synthetic oil prices.
When I took delivery of a Formula in '95 (LT-1 V8), I asked them about break in and was told to just drive the **** out of it. I did. By the end of the break in I was getting 30 mpg highway and judging by memory, it felt much faster than the low mileage perfect condition '95 Trans Am I bought years later.
But if you go by manufacturers recommendations, keep it under 4 grand AND vary the rpms. Don't drive down the highway at a constant speed for long distances and NO cruise control. Use regular oil for the first few oil changes to let all the metal parts mate together, then change to synthetic. Personally, I use synthetic blend here in FL. Even with 10-30 the full synthetic seems too thin for South Florida weather that almost never gets below 65*. Than and I hate the idea of paying full synthetic oil prices.