03 WRX Engine break-in worries
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03 WRX Engine break-in worries
Alright so I've finally got the car I wanted...
Engine break-in as mentioned in the manual is the first 1000 miles. What do I need to do, and not do.
I have def. rev of 6K a few times, but never redlined... Is it bad to hit 35 mph in first gear, cause I've been doing that a lot???
I guess I just need to resist the urge, to give it some throttle. DAD says don't go over 5K.... I've already ran it 100 miles in 2 days, and topped out at 80 something...
Anyway just wanted some advice I've had some fun, but I want to make sure my car lasts. Your suggestions and experiences are welcome.
Engine break-in as mentioned in the manual is the first 1000 miles. What do I need to do, and not do.
I have def. rev of 6K a few times, but never redlined... Is it bad to hit 35 mph in first gear, cause I've been doing that a lot???
I guess I just need to resist the urge, to give it some throttle. DAD says don't go over 5K.... I've already ran it 100 miles in 2 days, and topped out at 80 something...
Anyway just wanted some advice I've had some fun, but I want to make sure my car lasts. Your suggestions and experiences are welcome.
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I was told (and manual) to never go over 4k RPM and stay under 75MPH.
For me, I have never gone over 3k RPM and 75 MPH.
My co-worker said that the reason they tell you to baby it for the first 1000 miles is because the first 500 is for breaking-in the engine, and the last 500 miles is to make sure the protective layer of paint (or whatever it is) on the engine is burnt off. He said that if you high rev it, you'll burn it off really quick, and then there will be a funni smell and it'll only worry the owner. So, instead of having people come in worried about their car, they tell you to baby it for 1000 miles to make sure that stuff burns off.
I high revved mine a few times on accident and I did get a funni smell...but then it went away and now I no longer smell it. So, i guess I already burned mine off
.
So, for me currently, once I hit 500 miles... MUAH HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!
For me, I have never gone over 3k RPM and 75 MPH.
My co-worker said that the reason they tell you to baby it for the first 1000 miles is because the first 500 is for breaking-in the engine, and the last 500 miles is to make sure the protective layer of paint (or whatever it is) on the engine is burnt off. He said that if you high rev it, you'll burn it off really quick, and then there will be a funni smell and it'll only worry the owner. So, instead of having people come in worried about their car, they tell you to baby it for 1000 miles to make sure that stuff burns off.
I high revved mine a few times on accident and I did get a funni smell...but then it went away and now I no longer smell it. So, i guess I already burned mine off
.So, for me currently, once I hit 500 miles... MUAH HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!
well i got my 03 wrx sedan last friday and i did some research here. from my understanding, it's stay under 4.5K RPM, which i have been doing, but i'm still a little cloudy on what MPH to stay under. i'd say stop revving up to 6K.
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If I were you I would stop revving the engine so high during break-in. I would also slow it down under 75mph like the manual states. The reason being, my understanding, you want the piston rings to set correctly otherwise you will have premature engine problems (eating oil, blah blah blah). I wouldn't worry too much about the smell, its just lubricants and other substances on the car burning off, it's normal. Revving your engine once in a while during break-in won't hurt it, but prolonged exposure to these types of actions during the period will. So slow it down.
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You should probably stay within the guidelines mentioned, but don't worry yourself about what you've done already. Basically, how you run the engine only dictates how long it takes to break it in. Many performance engines are broken in on a dyno in a matter of minutes.
I did a quick search to find a web page to illustrate what I'm saying. Take a look:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
This link also explains other break in aspects, like why you shouldn't stay at one speed for extended periods of time.
I did a quick search to find a web page to illustrate what I'm saying. Take a look:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
This link also explains other break in aspects, like why you shouldn't stay at one speed for extended periods of time.
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Seems like a interesting right up and it makes sense to me. course I really don't know much about engines, and it seems to apply mainly to bikes, and snowmobiles... what do you other guys think... I'm still gonna run it easy under 5K but just wondering...
BTW I'm up to 200 miles and I've had it for 3 days and haven't left town yet. haha love this car
BTW I'm up to 200 miles and I've had it for 3 days and haven't left town yet. haha love this car
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The oil that comes in the motor has cutting oil in it to allow the rings to seat like they should. You do not want to load your engine while that oil is in there.
Not over 4K rpm or over 75mph for the first 1k miles. That is what subie says. I say not over 50% of the redline and no high loads or lugging. That means 2-3.5K light acceleration for the first 6 hours of opperation. I know it's hard to wait but trust me, you want to wait. The break-in period of a motor is where you will make or break that motor. Take it from a person that has seen THOUSANDS of ways to break in rebuild and new motors. Motors from high compression N/A bike motors to slingin' long throw high torque drap motors. They all like in between 25% and 50% of redline, light loads and verying rpms until those rings seat. I have seen people that program there FIs to lightly rev the motor between 3-6K rpm under a light dyna load (a tank of used oil and a propeller) for 6 straigth hours non stop with it running about 20*F over the normal operating temp. Then take that motor from the stand into a bike and use it all season with out a single internal problem. He has done it the same way for many years with 100% success everytime. That motor puts out about 5 horses for every cube too. Not exactly a pansy motor.
But since most people don't have this set-up, Subie just says not over 4K and 75mph.
You also don't want to exceed these until your engine is completely warm for the life of the motor.
Tim
(edit: if I had read the thread most of what I said has already been stated, ooops)
Not over 4K rpm or over 75mph for the first 1k miles. That is what subie says. I say not over 50% of the redline and no high loads or lugging. That means 2-3.5K light acceleration for the first 6 hours of opperation. I know it's hard to wait but trust me, you want to wait. The break-in period of a motor is where you will make or break that motor. Take it from a person that has seen THOUSANDS of ways to break in rebuild and new motors. Motors from high compression N/A bike motors to slingin' long throw high torque drap motors. They all like in between 25% and 50% of redline, light loads and verying rpms until those rings seat. I have seen people that program there FIs to lightly rev the motor between 3-6K rpm under a light dyna load (a tank of used oil and a propeller) for 6 straigth hours non stop with it running about 20*F over the normal operating temp. Then take that motor from the stand into a bike and use it all season with out a single internal problem. He has done it the same way for many years with 100% success everytime. That motor puts out about 5 horses for every cube too. Not exactly a pansy motor.
But since most people don't have this set-up, Subie just says not over 4K and 75mph.
You also don't want to exceed these until your engine is completely warm for the life of the motor.
Tim
(edit: if I had read the thread most of what I said has already been stated, ooops)
Last edited by tim smith; Jan 2, 2003 at 01:58 PM.
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Originally posted by ineedawrx
You should probably stay within the guidelines mentioned, but don't worry yourself about what you've done already. Basically, how you run the engine only dictates how long it takes to break it in. Many performance engines are broken in on a dyno in a matter of minutes.
I did a quick search to find a web page to illustrate what I'm saying. Take a look:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
This link also explains other break in aspects, like why you shouldn't stay at one speed for extended periods of time.
You should probably stay within the guidelines mentioned, but don't worry yourself about what you've done already. Basically, how you run the engine only dictates how long it takes to break it in. Many performance engines are broken in on a dyno in a matter of minutes.
I did a quick search to find a web page to illustrate what I'm saying. Take a look:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
This link also explains other break in aspects, like why you shouldn't stay at one speed for extended periods of time.
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I've currently got a Taurus SHO and we discussed these issues quite a bit a few years ago on our mailing list. Best thing I can offer is the fastest cars at the track were one owner cars who "drove em like the stole em" off the lot. There were second owner cars that were quick too, just saying the guys who bought them new and drove them hard were consistently quicker. I'm the second owner of mine and it's not as quick. I think from talking with the first owner tha the babied it when it was new. I must say, I'm not sure what difference the turbo will make in this equation.
As for synthetic, I'll use the factory installed lube for the first 1000, then I'll be switching to Mobil 1. Take a look around, a lot of high end cars come with Mobil 1 from the factory (Corvette I'm positive, I think Porsche, I'm sure there are others.)
Randy
94 Taurus SHO - for a few more months...
As for synthetic, I'll use the factory installed lube for the first 1000, then I'll be switching to Mobil 1. Take a look around, a lot of high end cars come with Mobil 1 from the factory (Corvette I'm positive, I think Porsche, I'm sure there are others.)
Randy
94 Taurus SHO - for a few more months...