Ground wire kits
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Funny that this got moved to the stereo area. If the person knew anything about ground wire kits he/she would know that they are not a stereo component or upgrade.
So, now I will get not responses regarding it because I am not talking about a stereo mod.
So, now I will get not responses regarding it because I am not talking about a stereo mod.
I had trouble moving this to the right place, actually, since most of the grounding kits I've seen are for stereo/multimedia applications, though it is just as useful for many other things. I made my best guess from your post, and I guessed wrong. I apologize.
If you'd like me to move it to another forum, let me know. In the future to avoid a situtation like this, it might be helpful to just post the question in the correct forum.
If you'd like me to move it to another forum, let me know. In the future to avoid a situtation like this, it might be helpful to just post the question in the correct forum.
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Originally Posted by nKoan
I had trouble moving this to the right place, actually, since most of the grounding kits I've seen are for stereo/multimedia applications, though it is just as useful for many other things. I made my best guess from your post, and I guessed wrong. I apologize.
If you'd like me to move it to another forum, let me know. In the future to avoid a situtation like this, it might be helpful to just post the question in the correct forum.
If you'd like me to move it to another forum, let me know. In the future to avoid a situtation like this, it might be helpful to just post the question in the correct forum.
That is why I put it in General.
Take care.
Premade grounding kits are overpriced and a waste of your money. You can accomplish the same thing yourself by buying the needed supplies and running a few wires. You also don't need a gazillion wires running all around the engine bay (and especially not to the strut towers where they do nothing). Just a couple from the battery to the intake manifold and maybe one or two other spots will be sufficient, and you shouldn't expect anything dramatic to happen. If you disconnect the battery in the process of hooking the ground wires up, any difference in how the car runs immediately afterward can be attributed as much to the fact that you just reset the ECU as to the additional grounds.
It can also help to replace the existing main grounds to the engine and chassis with heavier-gauge wires, and to check the existing harness grounds at the fenders and firewall. With those you can scrape off the paint underneath for better contact, then use some paint or grease over the reassembled ground to prevent rusting.
I added just a single wire from battery to manifold. I have the voltmeter (factory gauge pack) and noticed a small improvement there, not sure if it did much else.
Claims of additional HP from doing this are BS, if there's a deficiency in the existing grounds there can be some improvement from reinforcing them, but a few wires aren't going to give you something that wasn't already there.
It can also help to replace the existing main grounds to the engine and chassis with heavier-gauge wires, and to check the existing harness grounds at the fenders and firewall. With those you can scrape off the paint underneath for better contact, then use some paint or grease over the reassembled ground to prevent rusting.
I added just a single wire from battery to manifold. I have the voltmeter (factory gauge pack) and noticed a small improvement there, not sure if it did much else.
Claims of additional HP from doing this are BS, if there's a deficiency in the existing grounds there can be some improvement from reinforcing them, but a few wires aren't going to give you something that wasn't already there.
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Originally Posted by Mulder
Premade grounding kits are overpriced and a waste of your money. You can accomplish the same thing yourself by buying the needed supplies and running a few wires. You also don't need a gazillion wires running all around the engine bay (and especially not to the strut towers where they do nothing). Just a couple from the battery to the intake manifold and maybe one or two other spots will be sufficient, and you shouldn't expect anything dramatic to happen. If you disconnect the battery in the process of hooking the ground wires up, any difference in how the car runs immediately afterward can be attributed as much to the fact that you just reset the ECU as to the additional grounds.
It can also help to replace the existing main grounds to the engine and chassis with heavier-gauge wires, and to check the existing harness grounds at the fenders and firewall. With those you can scrape off the paint underneath for better contact, then use some paint or grease over the reassembled ground to prevent rusting.
I added just a single wire from battery to manifold. I have the voltmeter (factory gauge pack) and noticed a small improvement there, not sure if it did much else.
Claims of additional HP from doing this are BS, if there's a deficiency in the existing grounds there can be some improvement from reinforcing them, but a few wires aren't going to give you something that wasn't already there.
It can also help to replace the existing main grounds to the engine and chassis with heavier-gauge wires, and to check the existing harness grounds at the fenders and firewall. With those you can scrape off the paint underneath for better contact, then use some paint or grease over the reassembled ground to prevent rusting.
I added just a single wire from battery to manifold. I have the voltmeter (factory gauge pack) and noticed a small improvement there, not sure if it did much else.
Claims of additional HP from doing this are BS, if there's a deficiency in the existing grounds there can be some improvement from reinforcing them, but a few wires aren't going to give you something that wasn't already there.
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From: "It will take time to restore chaos." GWB
Car Info: 72 Vespa with curb feelers
Originally Posted by Ceej
But seriously, whichever grounds are lacking could be helped with a couple bucks worth of supplies... these $100 kits are rediculous.
Last edited by HellaDumb; Apr 7, 2005 at 08:39 AM.
buy 4 gauge wire from a welding supply house at around $.75 a foot.
buy some copper 4 gauge lugs for around $2 per 2.
about $5 for some shrink wrap.
about $3 for some clear silicon to seal the crimp.
a friend or an audio shop with a big *** crimper to crimp the 4 gauge lugs to the wire.
or hold the lugs in a vise. heat it with a propane torch. then while hot, stick a wad of solder and when the solder melts, jam the wire into it and it let cool. then silicon the connection and then shrink wrap.
buy some copper 4 gauge lugs for around $2 per 2.
about $5 for some shrink wrap.
about $3 for some clear silicon to seal the crimp.
a friend or an audio shop with a big *** crimper to crimp the 4 gauge lugs to the wire.
or hold the lugs in a vise. heat it with a propane torch. then while hot, stick a wad of solder and when the solder melts, jam the wire into it and it let cool. then silicon the connection and then shrink wrap.
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