Im no oil expert be ist 5w-30 for cold ie -20 to 90 deg and 10w-30 for 0-100+.

Just tried to change the oil, i had everything ready to go and the plug is locked down so tight I couldnt get it loose. **** Timmons subaru here I come. **** what dose it cost 40-50 bucks. not that its so much to pay just I wanted to do it myself save 20-30 bucks and call it a job well done, Ya know.

Sean,


I changed my oil at 3000 miles using Synthetic. Can you please emphasize why it's different for WRX's? Hofbrau, sorry for the confusion, but if Sean says not to change it at 10k for your car, then listen to him, as he worked at various dealerships in the past, plus now at Suby Specialties.


Val

I think in general you should wait till 10K not just WRX's if you look at my first link I posted at the bottom of the page it goes into detail.

Myself I'm sort of old school and change my oil at 1K, 3K, 5K 8K then switch to Synth at 10K.

Yeah I guess the rules are probably different for turbo'd cars, but I am trying to figure out why oil manufacturers don't put on a cautionary warning on their labels.

I agree with Peaty. The reason that I stress it more on the WRX's is because with the turbo compression is at a greater risk.

I think I touched on this in my first post.


Sean

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by BanVal4Life [/i]
[B]DON'T PUT SYNTHETIC OIL IN YOUR WRX!!!!!!!! Well at least not untill close to 10,000 miles. The synthetic oil does not allow the rings to seat very well, and this is very important on a turboed motor. You DO have to replace the drain plug gasket every time. It is a crush washer that will only crush 1 time.


Sean [/B][/QUOTE]

Wow , Look i did!! For a mod. you aren't reading the post very well VAL. ;)

Sean

Do you want me to pay you a personal visit to Suby Specialties and break your arms? :monkey:

Here is a saved post I have from another list I use to be on from a guy that worked in the oil industry. Not my words but some good info:


Begin quote
-------------

Dear Peter and list subscribers,

I am a chemist who used to work for one of the large chemical companies who supplied the basestocks for synthetic lubricants; one of my customers was Redline; I helped them design the basestock combinations for a number of synthetic applications. Based my my extensive experience with synthetics, I would recommend at least 5,000 mis prior to changeover to synthetic. You WANT wear in the first few thousand miles so that the metal is completely smooth. The lubrication qualities of synthetic will keep the molecular "peaks and valleys" that result from even the best of machined surfaces. Use of a synthetic before this microscopic wear happens will result in incomplete seating of rings, bearings,etc. which will decrease long-term efficiency and performance.

After a 5-10K breaking with ideally "cheap" oil, you then "stop" wear with the better lubricity of the synthetic. I stick with the factory drain intervals at 5K, even at first oil change, aothough the basestocks for synthetic hold up for much longer, thje additives do become depleted.

The small amount of mineral present after change will entirely mix, and be surrounded by synthetic basestock so there is a minimal need to "flush" the crankcase. The darker color is due to the affinity for the synthetic to solubilize varnish and sludge deposits throughout the engine. Synthetic can
support about 10x the dirt, varnish, etc. compared to mineral oil without damage to engine. Oil filters do tend to get loaded up faster w/synthetic.

Regarding the use of synthetic in the manual tranny for the Contour, the pour point of the PAO basestocks used in redline, Amsoil, and Mobil 1 is approximately minus 80F; certainly low enough to improve lubricity at temps encountered in US and most of Canada. The EP additive makes sense to enhance extreme pressure antiwear performance in a manual trans, since there are many points where the oil is being "squeezed" metal to metal in the transmission; the EP additives provide a sacrificial microscopic film of phosphate-sulphur additive to keep the metal from contacting, even when the oil is completely squeezed out of the space. Since it is sacrificial, you should change out oil with new additive every 40K miles, just to make sure. I don't believe that you will find that the EP additive will contribute to improved shifting while cold, it will only reduce gear wear over the long run.

Richard Huckins

----

End quote

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Hofbrau [/i]
[B]Im no oil expert be ist 5w-30 for cold ie -20 to 90 deg and 10w-30 for 0-100+. [/B][/QUOTE]


sorry you're right. I meant to say that i use 10w-30

maybe from the factory it's on really tight because on my 2nd oil change i changed the oil myself and the drain plug came off with out a lot of effort. the first oil change was done by my dealer.

if an oil change is going to cost that much then by all means try to do it yourself (or get a friend to help) and you can also use any oil filter and oil you want.
especially since it's so easy to get to the oil filter.