hmm interesting...

 

Lean??? is this by assumption or was this tested with a stand alone MAF sensor and 4 wide band sensors and 1 final wideband at the main pipe?....

your not going to run lean to a point that the engine is going to blow... and your not going to run lean enough to hurt performance.

Get this people this why our cars have a freaking MAF, MAP, 02 sensors, knock sensors, DBW, and all that other crap that makes tuning complicated.... factory ECU has up to 10-15% correction rate depending on which system is being used the rate of correction is the problem some ECU's. some are slower than others so it might cause a ping or two... or it might run lean for that split second but it will correct...

Get a bone stock car and run it on the dyno... Typically turbo cars are set (thanks to Smog rules) 12.7-13.8 PIG RICH... it will play around that area all day long depending on wether conditions, air density, altitude blah blah blah bs bs bs...

With an intake yes it will run leaner if you have a MAF sensro it will correct it and advance the following based on air speed (g/s), Timing, Fuel advance, Spark Duration, Enrichment, and all the smog related devices... ECU has to rethink for the next 100-200 miles. But when it's done scratching it's ***** thinking then your going to go back to the AFR that it has to work with.

14.7 is ideal but in the real world 14.7 is trouble for any car... turbocars should be around ~12.5-12.8 high boost and ~13.1 on low boost, there are variables like compression boost onset time, recovery time, load, and cylinder pressure. NA cars should be around ~13.1-13.7 depending on over all total compression and max RPM.

Oh yeah... that 1 AFR in the collection pipe is not a way to tune! the real way to tune is per cylinder on NA and Turbo cars. so that means 1 wideband per cylinder. you also need to know your cylinder charge pressure going into the motor and what it is exiting.

Man there is so much to say but it will get technical and i don't like talking about this **** anymore! especially pubicaly cause the world is filled with BS.

To lawson... again don't worry about leaning out your car will correct....

FYI an exhaust, and header will lean out the motor more than a freaking intake.

 

hmm interesting i always thought the ecu was be able to correct stuff due to a ecu reset.

 

if it didnt correct we couldnt go up to the mountians from the beach in a day

 

FYI people the set up Lawson is talking about is my old TBE and exhaust set up of my STI engine.

So thats:

ARC airbox
Espilier Turbo Back Exhaust

I've never had a tune on my car, only thing I did regarding the ECU was disable the rear o2 sensor with a tactrix cable.

I ran 1 step colder plugs from NGK and viola. I never hit fuel cut and took it to the track numerous times.

The reason for why I'm giving up my set is because I got a new motor (fully closed deck EJ257). From what JC is saying, I agree with him. Sure an engine tune will be good because it adjusts the fuel curves and ignition timing but the stock ECU will be able to adjust the new ranges.

Yes all of these mods will throw a check engine light, but in my experience, if you don't reset the ECU and drive the **** out of your car, your ECU will never learn to adapt to it.

After I removed my ARC airbox and put the stock on back on, without resetting the ECU, I kept throwing codes (P something something to lean???). Keep in mind this is with the stock airbox now. This tells me the ECU adapted to the ARC airbox already so my ECU will have to re-learn again.

 

yeah ecu reset it learns faster because all the sensors are stimulated at 1 time and the ECU is in Oh SNAPS mode i need to fix it or die...

it's like teaching a 40 year old CalcII vs a teen. The old fart has to get over 40yrs of BS vs a teen.

So yeah ECU reset helps it learn faster like 50 miles or so... but you don't need to do it...

 

hmmm thats true about the ECU reset i totally forgot about that...

it's all about learning.... If you start with a blank box and from day one you beat the **** out of the car the ECU learns "Agressive driving" If you drive like a crazy asian lady driver it learns "Crazy Asian lady driver" and so on...

so if you reset the ECU drive it around and it feels strong then say 2 days later feels like crap well it's because it learns that you drive like a ***** and thats how it should tune....

 

oh and fuel cut is probably due to some sensor hitting it's max 5V value... so it does a "home Limp dick" and does a fuel cut or what ever it takes to tell you to stop whacking off on the go pedal.

simple fix... find what sensor is doing that and correct accordingly... re-scale, throw a diod at it what ever.... but when you start doing that your on your own if the engine blows just smile!

 

jerry had boost creep issues, attribute that to carbon buildup....?

 

faulty wastegate actuator...

i have only seen carbon buildup on a vw TDI which left the flapper door slightly open and the shaft had some friction so it didn't swing smoothly.

But there are only 2 ways to get boost creep...

Ok i got a question...

Define boost creep the way you understand it.

 

oh no! the reversal on being called out on ed !


boost gain gone too far!

 

??? i didnt experience it first hand but it is overboost then fuel cut.

 

Boost creep, is which the boost level of your engine continues to rise despite the best efforts of the wastegate. Boost creep happens when a fully-open wastegate can't divert enough gasses around the hot-side turbine wheel.

 

hear say you got serveD!!!!

 

so it spikes or keeps climbing and holding?


so a fully open WG makes boost rise???