What are the best ways to spend $1000 for HP gains?
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What are the best ways to spend $1000 for HP gains?
Hello,
I'm getting into my new 03 WRX on Wednesday 26.Feb, and I have a nice tax refund headed my way. What do you suggest (personally) for $1000 as far as power gains go? I am trading in my 2000 Eclipse, and I remember what a difference a CAI made on that car. But, I see that CAIs on forced induction cars are not the big power gainer that they are on norm-asp cars.
In light of that, what's the "numero uno" mod to get better power? I am guessing a EBC, and I see that up-pipes are popular too. Is exhaust a big HP gainer as well? I like some of the packages that Ralliart has, I may look into those. On the list so far are PIAA bulbs and a TurboXS BOV.
So the question stands: How would you spend $1000 on a stock WRX?
I'm getting into my new 03 WRX on Wednesday 26.Feb, and I have a nice tax refund headed my way. What do you suggest (personally) for $1000 as far as power gains go? I am trading in my 2000 Eclipse, and I remember what a difference a CAI made on that car. But, I see that CAIs on forced induction cars are not the big power gainer that they are on norm-asp cars.
In light of that, what's the "numero uno" mod to get better power? I am guessing a EBC, and I see that up-pipes are popular too. Is exhaust a big HP gainer as well? I like some of the packages that Ralliart has, I may look into those. On the list so far are PIAA bulbs and a TurboXS BOV.
So the question stands: How would you spend $1000 on a stock WRX?
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I would get the up pipe and a complete turbo back. That should eat your $1000 up real fast. After that if you have money left over I would get either a MBC or EBC. Thats the best you are going to get for hp gains. Two groups of thought on CAI. Some groups say they are good for the car then you have the others say to stay with the factory air intake that it is about the best you can get.
You will most likely not be able to buy an uppipe and turboback for under $1000. If you do let me know and I'll buy from there too. I would go with the uppipe and the TurboXS Stealthback. That should run right around $1000 excluding installation. Then, later on, you could buy an axleback to complete the turboback.
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Originally posted by bone324
You will most likely not be able to buy an uppipe and turboback for under $1000. If you do let me know and I'll buy from there too. I would go with the uppipe and the TurboXS Stealthback. That should run right around $1000 excluding installation. Then, later on, you could buy an axleback to complete the turboback.
You will most likely not be able to buy an uppipe and turboback for under $1000. If you do let me know and I'll buy from there too. I would go with the uppipe and the TurboXS Stealthback. That should run right around $1000 excluding installation. Then, later on, you could buy an axleback to complete the turboback.
Last edited by Razlak; Feb 23, 2003 at 04:07 PM.
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Spool-
There is a thread open by auwrx under vendor sales that has some real nice prices on exhaust stuff. I am probably going to get the full turboXS turbo-back exhaust with the turboXS up-pipe for 1155 shipped. its a great deal if you ask me.
heres the thread:
https://www.i-club.com/forums/showth...?threadid=6719
Turbo Back w/catpipe $1025 shipped
Turbo Back w/racepipe $965 shipped
Turbo XS up-pipe: $190 shipped
I looked on world one performance and the total w/racepipe and up-pipe is 1190.90. I guess the difference is negligible, but it seems that auwrx is doing some nice things for the people on this board and you should check it out. Either way, a gain of 26 hp for this exhaust is nice!
I hope this helps,
Chris
There is a thread open by auwrx under vendor sales that has some real nice prices on exhaust stuff. I am probably going to get the full turboXS turbo-back exhaust with the turboXS up-pipe for 1155 shipped. its a great deal if you ask me.
heres the thread:
https://www.i-club.com/forums/showth...?threadid=6719
Turbo Back w/catpipe $1025 shipped
Turbo Back w/racepipe $965 shipped
Turbo XS up-pipe: $190 shipped
I looked on world one performance and the total w/racepipe and up-pipe is 1190.90. I guess the difference is negligible, but it seems that auwrx is doing some nice things for the people on this board and you should check it out. Either way, a gain of 26 hp for this exhaust is nice!
I hope this helps,
Chris
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I would buy a UTEC (999). You will get more gains (about 35HP from the UTEC about 25-30 from a Turbo back) than a turboback exhaust - which a good one will cost over 1000. The UTEC will grow with your project, allows you to do data logging, allows you to tweak your car and run multiple maps. This will eliminate the need to ever buy an EBC as its closed loop boost control is superb. You will also not have any problems passing emissions/inspections with a UTEC like you may with a TBE.
As for the CAI, don't waste your money until after you have bought an upgraded turbo, injectors, fuel pump, etc. You will not get any noticable gains until that point, and there are problems associated with many of the units out there.
As for the CAI, don't waste your money until after you have bought an upgraded turbo, injectors, fuel pump, etc. You will not get any noticable gains until that point, and there are problems associated with many of the units out there.
I am with cobraKLR on this one. I would buy the UTEC. That was my very first mod also. I was aso limited to aprox $1000, but after the UTEC I just wanted more and more and more....so I added a turboback and an uppipe and gauges. I am very satisfied but I want more...I think this is what has happened to all of us, once you start modifying your car it's addictive, you just can't wait to spend that extra money in your rex.
Astacun
Astacun
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I dont know what the reviews are on the gtspec headers are, but there's some on ebay for about.... 600. Then i saw a new perrin uppipe there for 150.... and im sure you can find a downpipe for around 250 or so. These i consider FREE UP hp gains are pretty good. And it also sounds good. But if you're an advanced tuner and want to go into the air/fuel ratio stuff and the electronic things, then utec is definitely the way to go. Especially with emissions checks becoming stricter by the end of summer, i think you should go with utec and then get an uppipe. Good luck
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I'm looking at the "starter package" here for $420:
http://www.vividracing.com/prod_vrpower.php
Add on a BOV (http://www.vividracing.com/prod_bov.php) and I think I got a good beginning setup. That's $215 + $420 = $645. The rest of the cash I'll use for PIAA Plasma Whites, LED turn signals, and installation.
http://www.vividracing.com/prod_vrpower.php
Add on a BOV (http://www.vividracing.com/prod_bov.php) and I think I got a good beginning setup. That's $215 + $420 = $645. The rest of the cash I'll use for PIAA Plasma Whites, LED turn signals, and installation.
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I'm looking at the "starter package" here for $420:
"Starter" Package includes
GFB Manual Boost Controller - ??HP
Perrin Uppipe - 10 HP
Perrin Drop In Filter - 0 HP
Perrin Crank Pulley - 5 HP
How do they get 40 Horsepower!!! Is the MBC really give you 25HP?
This is a quote from a much more repretable tuner (ScoobySport) about MBC:
NOTE: We caution against making a boost controller your first modification, as we literally service one engine per week in the UK that has been ruined by boosting without proper engine management. In fact, if a customer insists on an adjustable boost controller, we ask when they want to make an appointment for the engine rebuild...
http://www.wrxforum.com/cgi-bin/ulti...c;f=3;t=001640
Why do you want a BOV? for the sound? There is no HP advantage to a BOV. Waste of money if you ask me.
Go here to compare 9 different tuners and their packages:
http://www.mattrandolph.com/wrx/WRX-...nce-stages.htm
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First off dont wast your money on a BOV, it actualy hurts your performance unless you get a DV (diverter valve) otherwise it wont be pumping the turbo air back into the system, it'ss mess up the MAF and your car will run rich. if you're worried about hearing the "whoosh" sound get a new intake and you'll hear it just fine.
DVs I suggest are
the one By Forge Motorsports (WRX model is at the bottom)
http://www.stratmosphere.com/forge_valves.htm
or APS maks one that looks fantastic
http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/wrx/blow.htm
Cold Air Intakes to look at are
AEM's CAI
K&N's Typhoon System
and Injen's Race Driven CAI
as far as the boost controler goes just look at the Dangers of using one incorrectly and with out gauges or an engine management system.
https://www.i-club.com/forums/showth...&threadid=9739
...poor sap
I would recomend you go with either a turbo back exhaust system or a Utec. both of those mods make for a great jumping point and will grow with your other mods. So what ever else you add to the performance will be magnified through out.
hope that helps
DVs I suggest are
the one By Forge Motorsports (WRX model is at the bottom)
http://www.stratmosphere.com/forge_valves.htm
or APS maks one that looks fantastic
http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/wrx/blow.htm
Cold Air Intakes to look at are
AEM's CAI
K&N's Typhoon System
and Injen's Race Driven CAI
as far as the boost controler goes just look at the Dangers of using one incorrectly and with out gauges or an engine management system.
https://www.i-club.com/forums/showth...&threadid=9739
...poor sap
I would recomend you go with either a turbo back exhaust system or a Utec. both of those mods make for a great jumping point and will grow with your other mods. So what ever else you add to the performance will be magnified through out.
hope that helps
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Blow off valves neither help or hurt performance. You may run slightly more rich between shifts (our cars run very rich when on the throttle in the first place) for a few crank cycles - which is not bad or good. This has been proved by many at the track - no noticable affect on times. You can't test one on a dyno as you don't shift while testing.
They do sound very cool though.
They do sound very cool though.
Your priorities are different than mine I spent my first two thousand on wheels tires and suspension.
you could get an uppipe and a ECU re-flash which should be good! However, I am assuming that you might want more mods later and another 175 per reflash is not so appealing.
So plan B: uppipe and save a bit more $$ and do the turbo back, Then you can enjoy that.......
you could get an uppipe and a ECU re-flash which should be good! However, I am assuming that you might want more mods later and another 175 per reflash is not so appealing.
So plan B: uppipe and save a bit more $$ and do the turbo back, Then you can enjoy that.......
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twistedsymphony - DVs I suggest are
the one By Forge Motorsports (WRX model is at the bottom)
http://www.stratmosphere.com/forge_valves.htm
Just to let you know the So called diverter valve that stratmosphere sells is really a BOV and is listed by them as a BOV look at the first pic of it it has the return hose caped off and it works just like the TURBOXS.
And its always better to run rich then lean. running rich you lose gas milage running lean you burn out valves and other fun stuff. A BOV is a must in a turbo car. Other wise stock causes the air after the throttle is closed to go backwards and that intail spins the turbo backwards so when you get on the gas you have more turbo lag. Also that air going backwards car cause turbo shutter witch will cause the impeller to in the long run have shaft play.
the one By Forge Motorsports (WRX model is at the bottom)
http://www.stratmosphere.com/forge_valves.htm
Just to let you know the So called diverter valve that stratmosphere sells is really a BOV and is listed by them as a BOV look at the first pic of it it has the return hose caped off and it works just like the TURBOXS.
And its always better to run rich then lean. running rich you lose gas milage running lean you burn out valves and other fun stuff. A BOV is a must in a turbo car. Other wise stock causes the air after the throttle is closed to go backwards and that intail spins the turbo backwards so when you get on the gas you have more turbo lag. Also that air going backwards car cause turbo shutter witch will cause the impeller to in the long run have shaft play.


