Wednesday already
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 10,232
From: Front pleated TWill pants...
Car Info: 2004 PSM WRX
Brake help needed
Today on my way to work I noticed that when pressing firmly on the brakes I could feel a sort of pulsating in the pedal (not the ABS). Then while in the parking lot at work I noticed a metal sound and when I got out I could smell a odor coming from my front driver's side brake. I suspect my brake pads need to be changed. But I have a few questions:
1. How difficult is it to change the brake pads?
2. Should I change all four, even if only one needs to be changed?
3. Is it worth it just to take it in to a shop, and about how much can I expect to pay for the pads and labor?
4. If I decide to change them myself, anyone wanna help out (free food and drinks included
)?
Today on my way to work I noticed that when pressing firmly on the brakes I could feel a sort of pulsating in the pedal (not the ABS). Then while in the parking lot at work I noticed a metal sound and when I got out I could smell a odor coming from my front driver's side brake. I suspect my brake pads need to be changed. But I have a few questions:
1. How difficult is it to change the brake pads?
2. Should I change all four, even if only one needs to be changed?
3. Is it worth it just to take it in to a shop, and about how much can I expect to pay for the pads and labor?
4. If I decide to change them myself, anyone wanna help out (free food and drinks included
)?
BanHammer™
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 47,596
From: Wagonmafia Propaganda Lieutenant
Car Info: 2014 Forester XT
so we went rocking chair shopping last weekend for Jen when the baby comes.. the price of the stupid glider rockers was a bit crazy.. hey I got an idea.. lets go by La-Z-Boy and see what they have .. oh look.. they have a huge sale going on ..
wow.. we can almost get 2 chairs for the price of a nice glider rocking chair.. hmm.. these rock and are rather nice ...

yeah.. so chair for Jen.. chair for me
wow.. we can almost get 2 chairs for the price of a nice glider rocking chair.. hmm.. these rock and are rather nice ...

yeah.. so chair for Jen.. chair for me
pads only are an easy swap (but normally not suggested) normally you'll want to change the rotors (or at least turn them) also.
you'll want to change all the pads on that axle (front or rear) at the same time.
i'll be doing my brakes hopefully this friday. i'm on metal right now up front and the drums are on the squeekers. I have 10.7" dual piston calipers & rotors on their way (along with rear disc conversion). hoping to see everything by thursday so i can do it friday.
anyone know where to get speedbleeders locally?
you'll want to change all the pads on that axle (front or rear) at the same time.
i'll be doing my brakes hopefully this friday. i'm on metal right now up front and the drums are on the squeekers. I have 10.7" dual piston calipers & rotors on their way (along with rear disc conversion). hoping to see everything by thursday so i can do it friday.
anyone know where to get speedbleeders locally?
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 10,232
From: Front pleated TWill pants...
Car Info: 2004 PSM WRX
Originally Posted by Mr. Xevious
^^ oh man.. you need a new car looks like 
good morning peoples

good morning peoples

(if only I wasn't saving for a down payment on a house and budgeting and practicing making mortgage payments right now)
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally Posted by T-Will
Brake help needed
Today on my way to work I noticed that when pressing firmly on the brakes I could feel a sort of pulsating in the pedal (not the ABS). Then while in the parking lot at work I noticed a metal sound and when I got out I could smell a odor coming from my front driver's side brake. I suspect my brake pads need to be changed. But I have a few questions:
1. How difficult is it to change the brake pads?
2. Should I change all four, even if only one needs to be changed?
3. Is it worth it just to take it in to a shop, and about how much can I expect to pay for the pads and labor?
4. If I decide to change them myself, anyone wanna help out (free food and drinks included
)?
Today on my way to work I noticed that when pressing firmly on the brakes I could feel a sort of pulsating in the pedal (not the ABS). Then while in the parking lot at work I noticed a metal sound and when I got out I could smell a odor coming from my front driver's side brake. I suspect my brake pads need to be changed. But I have a few questions:
1. How difficult is it to change the brake pads?
2. Should I change all four, even if only one needs to be changed?
3. Is it worth it just to take it in to a shop, and about how much can I expect to pay for the pads and labor?
4. If I decide to change them myself, anyone wanna help out (free food and drinks included
)?Your rotors are "warped" which really means that you have uneven pad deposits on them. See Stoptech White Papers for more info about that.
As far as what to do about it, first, a slight pad upgrade would be in order. Hawk HPS and Porterfield R4S get great reviews as street pads. Answers to your 4 points:
1. Easy. Pull the wheel off, undo one slider bolt on the caliper, flip it open, and change the pad.
2. You probably only need to change the fronts. Refresh my memory- wht year/model is your car?
3. No, do it yourself unless you simply have no tools, or have more money than time.
4. I'd be happy too, but you could almost take it to a shop for the gas I'd burn to get there.
There will be plenty of volunteers to help you there though. 
Also, you might be able to get rid of the 'warpage' by re-bedding your pads. Go to your favorite road dyno, and do 4-5 hard stops from ~60 mph to ~10 mph. Do NOT come to a complete stop while you are bedding your brakes- if you do, the pads will bond to the rotors and make the problem worse. In fact, this is what probably caused the problem in the first place. You may have come off the freeway on a short ramp, or down a hill with a stop at the bottom and sat still with your foot on the pedal and hot brakes. whenever possible, try to make "limo stops" when you've come down from higher speeds and take your foot off of the pedal once you've come to a stop. (roll a little if you have to, it's better than letting your hot brakes bond)
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally Posted by T-Will
I agree, I better upgrade to an STI. 
(if only I wasn't saving for a down payment on a house and budgeting and practicing making mortgage payments right now)

(if only I wasn't saving for a down payment on a house and budgeting and practicing making mortgage payments right now)
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally Posted by T-Will
When the pads are down to metal, you're also supposed to replace the rotor??? How much does it cost for just 4 pads? How about 4 pads and rotors?
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 10,232
From: Front pleated TWill pants...
Car Info: 2004 PSM WRX
Originally Posted by BAN SUVS
Your rotors are "warped" which really means that you have uneven pad deposits on them. See Stoptech White Papers for more info about that.
As far as what to do about it, first, a slight pad upgrade would be in order. Hawk HPS and Porterfield R4S get great reviews as street pads. Answers to your 4 points:
1. Easy. Pull the wheel off, undo one slider bolt on the caliper, flip it open, and change the pad.
2. You probably only need to change the fronts. Refresh my memory- wht year/model is your car?
3. No, do it yourself unless you simply have no tools, or have more money than time.
4. I'd be happy too, but you could almost take it to a shop for the gas I'd burn to get there.
There will be plenty of volunteers to help you there though. 
Also, you might be able to get rid of the 'warpage' by re-bedding your pads. Go to your favorite road dyno, and do 4-5 hard stops from ~60 mph to ~10 mph. Do NOT come to a complete stop while you are bedding your brakes- if you do, the pads will bond to the rotors and make the problem worse. In fact, this is what probably caused the problem in the first place. You may have come off the freeway on a short ramp, or down a hill with a stop at the bottom and sat still with your foot on the pedal and hot brakes. whenever possible, try to make "limo stops" when you've come down from higher speeds and take your foot off of the pedal once you've come to a stop. (roll a little if you have to, it's better than letting your hot brakes bond)
As far as what to do about it, first, a slight pad upgrade would be in order. Hawk HPS and Porterfield R4S get great reviews as street pads. Answers to your 4 points:
1. Easy. Pull the wheel off, undo one slider bolt on the caliper, flip it open, and change the pad.
2. You probably only need to change the fronts. Refresh my memory- wht year/model is your car?
3. No, do it yourself unless you simply have no tools, or have more money than time.
4. I'd be happy too, but you could almost take it to a shop for the gas I'd burn to get there.
There will be plenty of volunteers to help you there though. 
Also, you might be able to get rid of the 'warpage' by re-bedding your pads. Go to your favorite road dyno, and do 4-5 hard stops from ~60 mph to ~10 mph. Do NOT come to a complete stop while you are bedding your brakes- if you do, the pads will bond to the rotors and make the problem worse. In fact, this is what probably caused the problem in the first place. You may have come off the freeway on a short ramp, or down a hill with a stop at the bottom and sat still with your foot on the pedal and hot brakes. whenever possible, try to make "limo stops" when you've come down from higher speeds and take your foot off of the pedal once you've come to a stop. (roll a little if you have to, it's better than letting your hot brakes bond)
I have an '04 WRX with 40K miles.
Just to clarify, I should re-bed the pads after I get the new ones on?
Also, I do typically let off the brakes once at a stop, but I do a lot of stop and go driving on Sunrise, so I'm sure this probably caused some warping.
Paul, do you have any good pads in stock?
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally Posted by pozzi
pads only are an easy swap (but normally not suggested) normally you'll want to change the rotors (or at least turn them) also.
Originally Posted by pozzi
you'll want to change all the pads on that axle (front or rear) at the same time.
Originally Posted by pozzi
i'll be doing my brakes hopefully this friday. i'm on metal right now up front and the drums are on the squeekers. I have 10.7" dual piston calipers & rotors on their way (along with rear disc conversion). hoping to see everything by thursday so i can do it friday.
Originally Posted by pozzi
anyone know where to get speedbleeders locally?
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally Posted by T-Will
Just to clarify, I should re-bed the pads after I get the new ones on?
Also, I do typically let off the brakes once at a stop, but I do a lot of stop and go driving on Sunrise, so I'm sure this probably caused some warping.
Also, I do typically let off the brakes once at a stop, but I do a lot of stop and go driving on Sunrise, so I'm sure this probably caused some warping.


