Nitto made a new tire for ricers.
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From: pew, pew, pew!!!
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Nitto made a new tire for ricers.
Here is Nitto's brilliant answer to people who cut their springs and failed to get an alignment to correct the camber...
http://www.nittotire.com/tires_neogen.asp
The print add I saw was touting it's negative camber attributes. "Why get an alignment when you can just buy new tires?"
http://www.nittotire.com/tires_neogen.asp
The print add I saw was touting it's negative camber attributes. "Why get an alignment when you can just buy new tires?"
hey! i have those on the battle wagon!
picked up a used set from a BAIC member for cheap when i got my wheels from Roo.
they're pretty sticky for a street tire. and i was shocked to see they're rated M+S
those are what i used on the wentworth ride and they never felt like they were going to let go.
i'd give them a 8 outta 10 cuz they're noisier than all getout on flat pavement from the large tread blocks, but so are any stickier tire w/ large contact patch.
i don't get how thy're for rycers? and how they're made to help bad wear? did i miss something?
picked up a used set from a BAIC member for cheap when i got my wheels from Roo.
they're pretty sticky for a street tire. and i was shocked to see they're rated M+S

those are what i used on the wentworth ride and they never felt like they were going to let go.
i'd give them a 8 outta 10 cuz they're noisier than all getout on flat pavement from the large tread blocks, but so are any stickier tire w/ large contact patch.
i don't get how thy're for rycers? and how they're made to help bad wear? did i miss something?
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Originally Posted by N600
hey! i have those on the battle wagon!
picked up a used set from a BAIC member for cheap when i got my wheels from Roo.
they're pretty sticky for a street tire. and i was shocked to see they're rated M+S
those are what i used on the wentworth ride and they never felt like they were going to let go.
i'd give them a 8 outta 10 cuz they're noisier than all getout on flat pavement from the large tread blocks, but so are any stickier tire w/ large contact patch.
i don't get how thy're for rycers? and how they're made to help bad wear? did i miss something?
picked up a used set from a BAIC member for cheap when i got my wheels from Roo.
they're pretty sticky for a street tire. and i was shocked to see they're rated M+S

those are what i used on the wentworth ride and they never felt like they were going to let go.
i'd give them a 8 outta 10 cuz they're noisier than all getout on flat pavement from the large tread blocks, but so are any stickier tire w/ large contact patch.
i don't get how thy're for rycers? and how they're made to help bad wear? did i miss something?
nyce.
i think they're a decent tire...i'd buy them again...better than most standard street tire and prolly the BEST M+S rated tire i've driven on.
but that ad does sound like a joke...
i think they're a decent tire...i'd buy them again...better than most standard street tire and prolly the BEST M+S rated tire i've driven on.
but that ad does sound like a joke...
Originally Posted by ryball
The print add was way worse than what they have on the site. It is clearly targeting people with screwed up camber.
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Originally Posted by ryball
The print add was way worse than what they have on the site. It is clearly targeting people with screwed up camber.
Originally Posted by BlackVenom96
since when has having negative camber been having "screwed up camber". do u even know how it effect handeling or are you just talking out your ***? thats an honest question.
These tires are designed for the retards that lower their car too much and/or don't align it. It's probably got harder rubber on the inside of the tire so it will wear evenly w/ an improper amount of negative camber.
And since when is "are you talking out of your ***" an "honest question"?
just FYI most INSIDE camber wear is from too much toe OUT in the allignment.
honda's get all sorts of crazy toe changes when you lower them and if not corrected the tires will wear to the cords in as quickly as a week...
with that said, on a normal street car w/ the proper toe setting you should be able to run around 1-2+ degrees neg camber w/o any adverse tire wear. anything over 2.5-3 degrees and a lot of straight freeway driving and you may get more tire wear than usual on the inside.
but for the most part (like 98%) the horrid inside wear is from improper toe settings.
and that's just an idoit move to run around w/o an alignment.
honda's get all sorts of crazy toe changes when you lower them and if not corrected the tires will wear to the cords in as quickly as a week...
with that said, on a normal street car w/ the proper toe setting you should be able to run around 1-2+ degrees neg camber w/o any adverse tire wear. anything over 2.5-3 degrees and a lot of straight freeway driving and you may get more tire wear than usual on the inside.
but for the most part (like 98%) the horrid inside wear is from improper toe settings.
and that's just an idoit move to run around w/o an alignment.
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Originally Posted by sperry
Negative camber helps cornering because it allows the tire to square up to the ground under hard cornering. But it's easy to get too much negative camber if you lower the car too much or don't bother to align it properly. Proper camber is always a compromise. Lots of negative camber helps cornering, but reduces traction while acclerating and braking. The "proper" way to set camber (in a race setting) is to check inner, middle, and outter tire temps right after coming off course. Then adjusting the camber and tire pressure until the temps increase linearly, or even better, are all the same (assuming the course you're running has equal amounts of turning, braking and accelerating). If the temps are even, then you know you're using as much of the tire as possible on average around the course you're running.
These tires are designed for the retards that lower their car too much and/or don't align it. It's probably got harder rubber on the inside of the tire so it will wear evenly w/ an improper amount of negative camber.
And since when is "are you talking out of your ***" an "honest question"?
These tires are designed for the retards that lower their car too much and/or don't align it. It's probably got harder rubber on the inside of the tire so it will wear evenly w/ an improper amount of negative camber.
And since when is "are you talking out of your ***" an "honest question"?

Originally Posted by BlackVenom96
who said it had to be worded nice to b e an honest question? and i do believe the question was directed toward ryball. im not defending the retards that run an insane amount of camber. but when i did my alignment i did -1.2* in the fornt and just under -1* rear. i dont like people saying that i have "screwed up camber" when i spent my time on the alignment rack to get my car just how i want it. so iw as curious wether he actually knew what he was talkign about, or wether he was just going off something he heard.
I swear, the last month or so has been *awful* with regards to people who don't understand structured logical reasoning. Everyone that wishes to argue on the internet without being a retard should read this: http://www.datanation.com/fallacies/index.htm at a bare minimum.
Nowhere do I see ry mention that he thinks you have improper camber. You just took offense because you have tires that he claims are for "ricers" w/ cut springs.
As far as your particular camber... -1.2/-1.0 sounds just about perfect for a street car that gets driven hard, assuming your toe is zero'd. I run -1.5/-1.1 on my WRX on the street, -2.5/-1.1 on the track, and -3.5/-1.1 for autocross (give or take depending on conditions). One nice thing about the WRX, as you go negative on the front camber, the toe comes out... so I've got a tiny bit of toe-in on the street and a ton of toe-out at the autocross.


