Feeling totally unmotivated to work on the scoob lately.. New MFactory gears are sitting on my bench along with a box full of new stuff waiting to go in.. Lots of bushings and mounts and a pitch stop.. etc etc.. Profec E-01.. blah blah.

Wife left town (visiting family in Canada w/ baby) so I randomly got a bug up my *** to work on it again.. And instead of installing all the go fast bits .....

I put a bunch of audio gear into it..

I'll finish the rest of the go-fast bits over the holiday weekend - I've made up my mind..


But I did build this enclosure in the process:

Took maybe 3.5-4 hours to build.. - Stealthbox
(build in slideshow)

 

finally in the right forum!? lol

again, i say and ask:

SWEET install. now make some for the rest of us willing to pay!

 

nice!

 

Ah there's just not enough hours in the day..

I could do a bit more of a write-up on it for DIY'ers.. Its actually pretty easy to do..

But my "making" hands are full at the moment.. Some "interesting" things in the works.. My garage is soon going to have some CNC equip in it for "production" purposes...

 

Do like

 

Looks good!

 

Thanks.

I had some comments here and there about sanding the underside of the enclosure smooth to finish it off.. I really didn't care enough to bother.. The only time the bottom of the box will be visible is when I have to remove the spare...

Which will be never - as I'm not running stock diameter tires... So the spare would be more damaging than helpful anyways.. I just leave it in there because my garage and side garage are both already full.. heh.

 

Looks really clean, well done!

 

Awesome job - I have wanted to do this to my wagon for a while. A couple of questions:
Since it's technically a 'small sealed' enclosure did you calculate the interior volume prior to glassing?
Do you have any problems with woofer excursion hitting the bottom of the cargo cover?
Finally: Any noticeable rattling from the hatch area with this setup?

 

I knew the interior volume would be enough for the subs I was looking at.. With a funky shape like this - and because I sincerely didn't feel like modeling the shape of the spare tire so I could calculate the total volume accurately (That and my ti-92's batteries were dead and I didn't feel like doing any integration manually) - I just winged it then did the ol' water test (measured out the water it took to fill it)..

So .78 cu feet I think it was.. Which ended up being pretty close to where i wanted to be.. I oversized the mounting ring to soak up a wee bit of airspace.. I was going to just add ballast to remove space if I had needed to..


As for rattles.. It doesn't rattle against the spare - or cause any issues with the components of the hatch area rattle wise (or the spl is high enough once you get to that point that you just cant hear it)... From the outside of the car the hatch itself sounds like it wants to rattle off its hinges - usual license plate vibration.. Garage door / etc..

It works great if you are looking to fill rock / metal etc.. If you are a rap type person - or someone that favors SPL (I'm an SQ kinda guy - dont listen to rap / couldnt care less about spl) you would have to remove or vent the cargo cover.. It doesnt physically interfere with excursion of my sub - but there is just an awful lot of air that wants to move in a fairly restricted space if you are really pushing the sub..

When I was tuning the system via RTA - as I dropped down through a frequency sweep when I got to somewhere below 50hz the cargo cover actually blew off.. The glue that holds those 2 little blocks in the styrofoam that completes the "hinge" on the back, failed and the blocks ripped out and the cargo cover started dancing around like a mexican jumping bean...

After I got it tuned and listened to "my" music with the sub tuned where I wanted it - it wasn't a problem.. If you realllyy crank the volume the bass takes on a dirty sound - as if you had too much airspace - but its just the cargo cover flapping - but with my music - that is at earbleed volume levels.. I might try experimenting with spacing it up or locking it down.. The air has a path to travel in - it would just rather bounce the cover around..

I've only tuned it so far - so not much daily experience with it.. Car still isnt technically running.. And it takes a day to charge my yellowtop back up after 15 minutes of my stuff running.. hehe.

So - if you are into SPL / rap - you'd have to do something with the cargo cover.. -Could probably just prop it open a bit.. But it depends hugely on how much power / how much air your driver is moving.

 

I got my hands on a decent 10" sub for a decent price (free!) so this build will be a go for me in the near future. My only experience with subs has been running them inverted, or firing away from the passenger space. I'd love to give this setup a listen if you have an opportunity- I live in Sac. Lemme know!

 

I have some RE SX10's There's no way I could set up the box for my 10's. Maybe with the spare out. but I need 1.25 cu feet of space, and it needs to be ported haha. Just more of a headache. Not to mention the amp location, since my amp is so huge because these subs want 1000w RMS, but can take a healthy 1000-1300w rms easy.

 

Are you good with box work? I may need some help remaking a box for my two RE SX10's.