Camber Adjust???
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Camber Adjust???
I just got a set of Eibach 10mm pro spacers. Would i need to adjust the camber or allignment after installation. I am not sure, i mean i would if i lowered the car, but what about widening the stance?
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Originally Posted by T-cel89
To push the wheel out. The spacers are hubcentrit and are made for the car. They even gave me longer studs.
Imagine that you are lifting weights and have the bar in one hand parellel to the ground. Now slip 20 pounds of weight on to each side of the bar - we'll call that the stock setup with a correct offset.
Now take the 40 pounds and put it on one side only - we'll call this the modified setup with the incorrect offset.
Throwing the balance off and all the added stress that comes along with it is murder on wheel bearings.
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Hmmm i see. So even if they are lite weight and only 10mm they would still put stress on the bearings? Hmmm they did not mention that when i bought them. At first i bought the cheapo ones for like 7 bucks a piece then found that those were crap. Took em back and spent about 289 bucks on a set of eibach spacers. I figuered if i was gonna do it to right. Is there any i can do to help with the added stress or should i not put them on @ all?
It's not the problem of the added weight, it's the shifting of the offset of the wheels, which changes the load distribution on the wheel bearings. Subaru wheel bearings are very offset picky.
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Here's another way to think about it.
What you're effectively doing is changing the leverage point of the hub. Instead of shock loads being directed more or less upwards, vertically into the hub and wheel bearing, you're essentially side-loading it (as you would when cornering) and an impact is almost trying to rotate the hub in the bearing. A good way to visualize this is to hold one hand flat. Make a fist, push up in the palm of your open hand. Your whole arm moves up, and your fingers stay level, right? That's a "proper" offset. Now, a lower offset, or spacers: do the same thing, but put your fist under your fingers and push up. What happens? Your fingers try to angle back up, and your palm (which is the "bearing") isn't moving up and down with the suspension.
Now that's an extreme demonstration, and we're only talking 10mm or so here. Add that to whatever offset you're running if you're running non- Subaru-specific wheels. But with every bump you hit, etc, you're loading the suspension in a way it wasn't specifically designed for. Your wheel bearings will wear out faster (and on Subarus, the wheel bearings are under-greased from the factory and more prone to failure than most cars anyways). If you don't catch it soon enough, you can add a $100+ hub to the wheel bearing removal and replacement costs, and you're looking at about 200-300 per corner. Now, eventually everything fails, but if you speed that process up until it happens while you still own the car......
It takes more work, but if you want to fill out your fenders, do some research on offset and wheel width, get coilovers if you haven't done so already, and run a big effing wheel and tire.
My fenders are narrower (older Legacy) but this is a wheel combo that noone thought would fit, but has no clearance issues while pushing out as far as it can with 235's on a 17x8, ET48 wheel.

What kind of car do you have, and what wheels are already on it? Suspension?
What you're effectively doing is changing the leverage point of the hub. Instead of shock loads being directed more or less upwards, vertically into the hub and wheel bearing, you're essentially side-loading it (as you would when cornering) and an impact is almost trying to rotate the hub in the bearing. A good way to visualize this is to hold one hand flat. Make a fist, push up in the palm of your open hand. Your whole arm moves up, and your fingers stay level, right? That's a "proper" offset. Now, a lower offset, or spacers: do the same thing, but put your fist under your fingers and push up. What happens? Your fingers try to angle back up, and your palm (which is the "bearing") isn't moving up and down with the suspension.
Now that's an extreme demonstration, and we're only talking 10mm or so here. Add that to whatever offset you're running if you're running non- Subaru-specific wheels. But with every bump you hit, etc, you're loading the suspension in a way it wasn't specifically designed for. Your wheel bearings will wear out faster (and on Subarus, the wheel bearings are under-greased from the factory and more prone to failure than most cars anyways). If you don't catch it soon enough, you can add a $100+ hub to the wheel bearing removal and replacement costs, and you're looking at about 200-300 per corner. Now, eventually everything fails, but if you speed that process up until it happens while you still own the car......
It takes more work, but if you want to fill out your fenders, do some research on offset and wheel width, get coilovers if you haven't done so already, and run a big effing wheel and tire.
My fenders are narrower (older Legacy) but this is a wheel combo that noone thought would fit, but has no clearance issues while pushing out as far as it can with 235's on a 17x8, ET48 wheel.
What kind of car do you have, and what wheels are already on it? Suspension?
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Damn i get it now. I really dont want my ish Fcked up. As for the car i got a 99 L coupe. I think i met sybir last nite @ the EG meet. My car right now is stock, except for what is allowed in Autox stock classes. I did tires, and im waiting on a sway bar. I just need wheels now. I got the stock steelies but i think ill go with the 15" outback alloys. But as far as handeling i cannot do much else.. I think ill use the money on the wheels. Thanx dudes for keeping it real : ) It seems like every shop is trying to F me over.
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Originally Posted by T-cel89
Damn i get it now. I really dont want my ish Fcked up. As for the car i got a 99 L coupe. I think i met sybir last nite @ the EG meet. My car right now is stock, except for what is allowed in Autox stock classes. I did tires, and im waiting on a sway bar. I just need wheels now. I got the stock steelies but i think ill go with the 15" outback alloys. But as far as handeling i cannot do much else.. I think ill use the money on the wheels. Thanx dudes for keeping it real : ) It seems like every shop is trying to F me over.
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Incidentally, if you're able to return those spacers, you could probably pick up some 17" rotas, used, with tires, for not much more than $300 if you keep an eye out. I sold my last set of Actions with tires for $350......but if you're concerned about stock-class autoxing, that won't work.
You could also get WRX stockers, but trying to compete might be difficult depending on how you get bumped up. Aren't the L and the RS in the same stock class, so you can update/backadate wheels, and run 16x6.5's or 16x7's?
You could also get WRX stockers, but trying to compete might be difficult depending on how you get bumped up. Aren't the L and the RS in the same stock class, so you can update/backadate wheels, and run 16x6.5's or 16x7's?
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Nope, the RS is in G Stock and the L is in H Stock. That means 15x6 or 15x6.5 wheels within 1/4" of factory offset.
Last edited by Kevin M; Aug 29, 2006 at 03:30 PM. Reason: worst ninja edit evar.



