Hey all,

I have a thread on DirtyImpreza.com, but I thought I'd come over here and share as well. I'm turning my 2004 WRX into an AWD open class rally car. I'll mostly be competing in 'local' CRS events (www.californiarallyseries.com) but hopefully I'll have the chance to head up to the PNW and maybe even CO for rallies out there.

But first things first...finish the car. I'm on schedule to have this done for Gorman Ridge Rally 2009. Right now its still my daily driver and I'll be getting a new DD/service vehicle in early 2009.

I've actually got quite a bit done so far...engine is built and 50mm suspension is on. The biggest 'final' steps is full FIA cage/rally prep (stitch welding, reinforcing certain areas) and then interior prep (FIA seats, belts, etc). That will all happen once I get a new DD.

I'd love any feedback on...well, anything...and some friendly peer pressure to keep me on track for my goal for Gorman!

 

STI 2.5L block w/100mm bore (supertech pistons, coated race main/rod bearings, cometic HG)
Stage 2 ported WRX heads
Jun 256 Cams, Supertech +1mm SS intake/Iconel exhaust valves
PE 800cc injectors
Blouch TD-05 20g Turbo
Link G3 ECU
COBB Intake and Cold Air Box
Custom Cusco catch can
Act flywheel and 6-puck race clutch
GrimmSpeed ported/coated headers and uppipe
GrimmSpeed 3mm phenolic spacers and coated intake manifold
APS TMIC (coated by GrimmSpeed) w/recirc BOV
APS Turbo Intake

Tuned by Miles at Fine Line Imports in Santa Rosa, CA. This is the Cliff's Notes version of this engine build since we had some issues at first, but I won't get into it in this thread.

Power comes on fast and smooth and pulls all the way to redline. 300whp at 3200rpms is pretty nice!! The blue/green base lines are my current tune. The other 'test' lines are with the stock WRX ecu, so he was able to put a bit more area under the curve with the Link G3.

This is on a mustang dyno, ambient air temp on the 'test' pull was around 75 degrees, temp on the current base pull was a bit hotter (about 10 degrees), which is why it drops at the end a bit.

Obviously big thanks to Miles, Steve and Ryan at FLI.

Also, to Trey Cobb for the intake and airbox, and Mike at Blouch for the turbo!!

And of course the rest of my sponsors!! Grimmspeed, L&E Fabrication, Metropolitan Motors (SF), Project Solo Gear, Redline Oil

 

so I bought my DMS 50mm's used from the R4 Gravel Crew guys in SoCal. They were in good condition, but needed a little work. I started by installing them to see just what they're like, adjust the ride height, and sort out any issues.


At first, ride height was a *little* off! (haha)



Even after getting it back down, the ride was still very stiff (setting on full soft) and I was getting a pretty bad rubbing in the rears....so time for some suspension greasing!!


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Here's how you can self-service your DMS Coilovers. I assume other inverted struts work in a similar fashion. For the record, 'service' is simply re-greasing. A full 'rebuild' consists of removing and replacing the bushings as well, which requires a press, so that's not going to happen today.


Step one...pull off your coilover from your car.
3 bolts on the top
2 19mm bolts on wheel hub
1 19mm top bolt <---be sure to either use a spring compressor first, or lower the spring perches so they are not pre-loaded.


once you do that, pull off the spring and top hats, and make sure you have a flat, clean, table or bench to lay everything out. If the housing/springs are as dirty as mine, be sure to clean it all off.


Using a heat gun, heat up the bottom bolt on the bottom of the housing. At least 500 degrees.



Use the impact gun to break it off, you kind of have to, otherwise the inner rod will just slowly spin.



The bump stop is on the bottom...Odi told me the grease will eat away at it....ORLY? Ya, RLY!



Inside of the strut....low on grease, and DIRTY....



Clean it out with high pressure water and/or brake cleaner. I'm not replacing the two bushings, but you can see they're fairly worn and NEED it...but not today.




Once you clean out all the old grease, reapply new grease into the two groves created by the two bushings. I used a long flat head screwdriver, and the grease is a general 'moly fortified' Valvoline automotive grease.



Once you're done....just reassemble! Be careful with the seals at the edge, but the insert should just go right back in w/o much force (don't forget the bump stop!).

Also, when you re-install the bottom nut, don't forget 2 things:
1) Use some kind of liquid thread locker.
2) Be sure to line up the rebound adjuster with the '0' mark on the housing.

Re-install on your car, and do the other 3!

 

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sounds like fun man, good luck with everything