I have been honda guy for most of my life and had been building my 07 Honda Civic Si since I had bought it brand new in 06. I recently moved to Cali for work but I miss WA!!!

Brief Overview of the Civic
07 Civic Si 6MT

JR Supercharged 350fwhp
Custom tucked harness
Custom Intake and Full Vband Header and 3inch Exhaust

Full Suspension

Flared Fenders

18x10 Work Emotion XD9s

Some Features

Canibeat & Speedline Film Werks

Cars

Cars


Last photo getting ready for the track with 265/35/18 on 18x9.5 +15 RPF1s




2005 Legacy STish



Updated Parts list

EFI Logics Stage 1 EJ257 Shortblock (99.5mm forged pistons, EFI Rods, ARP head studs, killerB oil pickup, nitrided crank, 11mm STI oil pump)

Gates Racing Timing Belt and Waterpump

Blouch 20G-XT turbo with 8cm^2 ceramic coated exhaust housing and braided stainless oil supply line

Cobb Accessport v2 tuner with EFI Logics tune

Cobb SF intake and airbox

Samco 70mm Intake Tube

Samco Turbo Inlet

Samco BOV Hose

Samco Coolant Hose Kit

Samco Radiator Hose Kit

Grimmspeed electronic boost control solenoid

Cobb radiator cooling plate/air duct

Grimmspeed TGV deletes

Grimmspeed Air Oil Separator

RacerX front mount intercooler with DEI titanium wrapped hotside

Forge Bypass Valve

AVO 245lph fuel pump with AVO pump housing

Deatschwerks 740cc injectors

STi GroupN motor Mount

STi GroupN transmission mount

NGK LFR7AIX spark plugs

Tomei Equal Length Header/Uppipe

Cobb Catted Downpipe

Race Ready Electronic Cutout

2011 STi Quad Exhaust

Spec Stage 2+ clutch

OEM 06-07 WRX flywheel

Tranquil TSK3 Tranny Sleeve Kit

STi Strut Tower Bar

Kartboy Shortshifter

Kartboy F/R Shifter Bushings

Kartboy Pitch Stop Mount

Kartboy F/R HD Endlinks

Hotchkis 25mm Front Sway Bar

Hotchkis 22mm Rear Sway Bar

Cobb Reinforcement Brackets

TIC Cross Member Bushings

TIC Pivot Bushings

Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings

Whiteline Front Control Arm Bushings Offset

AVO Front Control Arm Bushing

Bilstein HD Struts

Swift Wagon Springs

Stoptech F/R Brake Pads

Goodridge SS Brake Lines F/R

Grimmspeed BMC Brace

ATE Superblue brake fluid

DBA T2 Font Rotors

Blacked Out Headlights

Volt 4300k xenon headlights

STi 5mt Shift ****

18x8 +35 BBS CK

Conti DW 225/40/18

 

I am not a professional but I have been building cars for the past couple years and I have mechanical understanding of all things with an engine. That is where the legacy comes in. When I got the car all of the suspension and brakes was stock minus some Cobb springs and ATE SuperBlue. The car has plenty of power but it was just plain scary around corners and if I had to stop quickly it was not necessarily quick. I decided that it was time for an overhaul and I wanted something that I could have DD and still have fun on the mountains of central California. Well one of those spirited drives ended up really awesome with under-steering into a corner and bending my control arm in half braking the endlink off. After getting a replacement piece I started to really evaluate what I wanted to upgrade. I decided to to get a JDM rear 20mm Sway Bar first and start playing with the suspension from there. I started to notice less understeer when cornering which made me really happy but it was still very scary at high speed cornering. I later got a Perrin 22mm Adjustable Front Sway and set it to the stiffest setting.....it helped keep the front level in cornering but it still was only a band-aid.

Come black friday I decided I was over the nonsense and went ham on some parts. Bilsteins HDs, Kartboy Solid enlinks, Goodridge ss lines, ATE SuperBlue, Hawk Pads and a Grimmspeed Brake Master Cylinder Brace. This is one of the best brake setups you can do for the legacy that is well within budget. The brake install was pretty straight forward but except the rear lines were a biyotch to install, the DIYs on the forum help but I highly recommend a brake tool for the lines. The car stops now with a quick, fast and a hurry, I am running the stock rotors too. You can upgrade to slotted rotors but it is not needed for a daily. I was content for a for a month but I was still not happy with the setup. I kept searching and searching for new sway bars but I soon realized aftermarket companies hate the Legacy for some reason and stopped making bigger sways for the car years ago. I soon came across a set of Hotchkis Sway Bars 25mm front and 22mm Adjustable rear. I also installed some Cobb rear re-enforcement brackets. There was not a DIY for these but they are pretty straight forward. Being straight forward did not mean that they were easy to install though. These brackets are cheaper then the AVO brackets but the AVOs are a solid piece and can come off and on easier. The Kartboy endlinks were kind of a PITA to install too but you have to pay to play. The Bilstein HDs are amazing struts and though I had considered Koni Yellows I could not pass up the deal on the HDs. The Cobb springs were low on my stock struts and I think the spring rates were not that different from stock. What was funny is the springs had a completely different ride height on the HDs. On the stock struts they had a really nice rake but on the new struts it had the opposite reverse rake......I read because of the higher perches it would make the USDM springs ride completely different and raise the nose a lot. So the search was on for new springs! I looked at Epics and had even emailed about RCE springs but in the end I knew what I wanted, Swifts. I again researched to find out more information about the which springs to use, Wagons or Sedan Springs. With the sedan springs people still had issues with reverse rake on the HDs so I found a good deal on some Wagon Springs that compensate for the added weight of the wagon rear end. Even with the springs it still had some rake but it is not that bad and you really cant notice it. If you do this this setup I recommend Bistein HDs, Swift Wagon Springs, and some Paranoid or Subtle Solutions 3/8ths Rear Saggy Butt Spacers. I am going to run RCE lowering Camber Plates in the front so it will bring the nose down 3/8ths of an inch.

I am now convinced that bushings can change the way the car acts and feels. I already have GroupN Engine and Transmission Bushings with a Kartboy shortshifter including front and rear bushings. I was content with that but I drove my friends STi and was really jealous how his car shifter had zero play. I was convinced that I could not have that without a 6speed transmission but I found a solution with TIC "Wide" Pivot Shifter Bushings. There is next to zero play in neutral and in gear, $20 dollars! I highly recommend this piece for 5speed manuals. While I was installing the sway bars I went ahead and swapped out the steering rack bushings with Whiteline. It was not easy at all but because Whiteline came with the tool I would only recommend this over the AVO because of that. The steering feels like it doesn't jump around as much but you lose a little road feeling but gain in quicker steering feedback. The last thing I installed was the Whiteline Crossmember Bushings and boy did those do a lot of nothing. The stock bushings were terrible and mushy. The new bushings were very solid but I really for the life of me could not feel a difference at all in the shifting or in driving.

Summing everything up I am not a very good writer nor a great driver but I do have a passion for the automotive industry and everything related. I do have future plan to refine the suspension more but at the moment I am pretty content and happy with the setup. If you guys have any questions with the install please let me know. I feel that LegacyGT needs a bigger boost and more general information available on the site. I hope this write up helps people decide on some parts that they have been unsure to buy because there has not been enough info given on them. Thanks LGT and I hope to come up with more information soon. I also co-own a tuning company that specializes in 80's and 90's cars. We have a small Body/Aero Department that produces over fenders and front lips for AE86s. I am considering making small parts for the legacy community either it be body parts or mechanical items. If you guys would please give me some feedback on what kind of aero parts you would like to see or even anything specific to the legacy please let me know

 

Well this is my write up for swaping all the bearing inside the transfer case. I am not really considering this a DIY because its not as detailed as it should be but it has a good base to work from if your already mechanically inclined. I am not a trained mechanic but I love getting my hands dirty whenever I get the chance so myself and others can learn from it.

I am a garage guy at heart but every opportunity I have the chance to not work on the car with 3ft of clearence I take it lol. A close friend of mine co-owns a shop nearby and he decided the best way to do this is with a lift and power tools.....I could not say no. Though you can do this with hand tools and a jack with jack stands it would probably add another 2 or 3 hours to an already 3 hour job. To start off I would get everything you would need for the job, OIL and any special tools. I decided to do the oil change so I went to O'Reilly and picked up 5 gallons of Shell Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic for $85 with two free Bosch oil filters, YAY! Also I picked up the Transmission Cocktail Gear Oil I will be using for the swap. 2 Castrol Hypoy C, 1 Pensoil Syncromesh, and 1 Redline Shockproof.





These are the 4 Bearings you will have to purchase from Subaru, I bought everything for $175. You will also need some Hi-Temp Silicone Liquid Gasket and a T70 Bit for the transmission drain plug. When You get everything put the LGT on the lift (or Jackstands)

Ball Bearing 806230170
Radial Ball Bearing 806255010
Roll Bearing 806322080
Roll Bearing 806330120
$175

T70 $5
Liquid Gasket $5





Remove the top mount intercooler and the turbo heat shield from the turbo. There are 5 bolts that hold the downpipe to the turbo and two spring bolts that hold the downpipe to the exhaust, you can unclip the the 02 Sensor plug and leave the sensor on the downpipe. Also remove the the heat shield as well the sits between the downpipe and driveshaft.

 

Drain the fluid from the transmission and then disconnect the driveshaft. Make sure you check the plug for any crazy chunks of metal and it clean it if necessary. There are two driveshaft career bolts and 4 bolts that connect the driveshaft to the rear diff. Once all of those are removed you can slide the driveshaft out of the tail snout.







Remove the Transmission Crossmember. There are 6 bolts that hold the crossmember to the car and 2 bolts that hold the crossmember to the transmission. (This would be a good time to install new whiteline crossmember bushings).

 

Disconnect the shifter linkage from the transmission and knock the roll pin out with a hammer and punch. (This would be a good time to install some Kartboy Shifter Bushings or if you already have them regrease them).



Remove the 3 bolts that hold the downpipe hanger off the tailshaft cover and then remove the 9 bolts that hold the cover itself. Make sure you have a pan ready to capture the remaining transmission oil that will come out.

 

When the cover is removed the transfer drive gear and the transfer driven gear will most likely be attached to the tail cover. The center diff will also slide out with no issues as well. In the transfer case up toward the top there is a ring called a Bearing Race that needs to be removed.









When looking at the Tail Cover the transfer driven gear can be a removed easily and you will have to remove the bearing race from that as well, make sure you pay attention because there is an adjusting washer that sits under the bearing race. The bearing races will be replaced with the new roll bearings but the adjusting washer will not be replaced and will have to be placed back underneath the new bearing race. the transfer drive gear will need the 4 allen head bolts removed before you can remove the shaft. On the transfer drive gear there is a snap ring that sits on the on the cover side of the bearing, this will need to be removed before the bearing can be pressed off.







Bearing splitters and a press are key to removing all of the bearings safely. I do not recommend anything else. The 2 Roll Bearings go on the transfer driven gear, the Ball Bearing that is attached to the cover with allen bolts goes on the transfer drive gear. The Radial Ball Bearing is pressed onto the center differential intself.

 

 

CLEAN EVERYTHING! The diff, transfer gears, and the case/cover. Use scotchbrite where the case will mount. Make sure you install the new bearing race back into the transfer case up in the corner and also in the tail cover with the adjusting washer. Place the center diff back into the transfer case. Install the snap ring back on transfer drive gear and install the gear back on the tail cover using the allen bolts.











Now use the liquid gasket (HONDABOND LOL) and make sure you install a nice clean bead around the case. Bolt back the 9 bolts to hold the cover to the case and the 3 bolts that hold the downpipe bracket. Punch the roll pin back in and also install the shift linkage back on. Attach the crossmember with the 2 bolts to the tranny and 6 bolts to the car. Slide the driveshaft back onto the snout and bolt on the 2 bolts for the center driveshaft mount and 4 bolts to the rear diff. Install the heat shield and bolt the downpipe back onto the turbo and exhaust. 5 bolts to the turbo and 2 spring bolts to the exhaust. Plug the 02 Sensor back in and make sure everything is tight!

 

Now for the Transmission Gear Oil. Use all of the Redline, Pensoil, and 1 Castrol. Now use the last Castrol until the transmission is full.



One thing to understand is Subaru updated their bearings over the years so dont get scared when you open the case up and notice that the 2 roll bearings are different. the roll bearing themselves are smaller and the bearing races are bigger but everything is a perfect fit I assure you.

I did this swap because my transmission was getting louder and louder during accel and decel in gear. While cruising it sounded like marbles were loose in the transfer case. NOW DID THIS HELP!? yes a little but the transmission is still a little loud but I hope this will help prevent my 5MT from exploding until I get my 6MT.

 

This was from last month but it took me a while to finish all of the photos. A bunch of Bay Area LGTs got together for a meet and greet install day.

 

 

I just finished installing a new(used) Tomei Equal Length and Up Pipe, and DBA T2 Rotors. I also sold my Perrin BPV for the new Forge PBV to get ready for some other future installs To add to the suspension I got really good deals on some Whiteline Offset Bushing and AVO Front Control Arm Bushings.

I also Installed the following kits


Samco Turbo Inlet Kit

Samco Intake Tube Kit

Samco Radiator Hose Kit

Samco Coolant Hose Kit

Samco Intercooler/BPV Hose Kit


I am waiting for a couple new Coolant Hoses for the reservoir tank and a breather and vacuum hose kit that they just released for the 08+ WRX. My goal with RCM and Samco was to test fit all of these hoses to make sure they work for the 05+ LGT.

 

Had a test fit day at my friends house











My BBSs look great on the wide body





He thought he could park handicapped lol



265/35/18

 

Nice to see you again and a fun night in SLO for sure!!!

Really nice build thread for sure. It makes me miss my Legacy!!! Riding in it last night reminded me of how the seats had that certain scent, the seat heaters, and lastly just more laid back!

Hope to see your car at BAM and maybe before that.

 

Nice!