If I keep all five, yes they would be functional. Or weld the two drivers closed and make some shelving on the inside for stuff/place for pillows to lean on and hang feet out the passenger doors. I would like to use all the windows, with some sort of screen on the inside, to keep things cool in the summer.

It seems standard that the entry doors to trailers are on the passenger side, I guess so you are out of traffic when getting in on the side of a highway or something.

-side note, today I have been typing "doors" a lot, and I keep typing "dorrs" instead, fingers why u no listen to brain?

Here is a pic of the celica heading for sac, gonna get a fresh motor and tranny. Cousin David hauled the outback here and took the celica back.

[ATTACH]121197[/ATTACH]

Here is the Outbacks new home for a while, now I need a tent of some sort to get out of the sun so I can start working.

[ATTACH]121198[/ATTACH]

cant wait for more updates :)

Something like this might be a good solution to your braking issue. I would imagine you could use your original rear brakes with a [URL="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Titan-Trailer-Disc-Brakes-Actuator-Surge-Couplers-2-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3c9f76c9d3QQitemZ260373400019QQptZMotorsQ5fRVQ5fTrailerQ5fCamperQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories"]surge brake master cylinder[/URL] like this. Have you taken out the rear differential yet? Just checking progress. See ya.

new member in Sac?

[QUOTE=stupidchicken03;3102790]new member in Sac?[/QUOTE]


My cousin David!! Pictured above taking the celica to do a new motor and tranny!!! yay you joined!!

No progress yet, been busy at work. I have looked into surge brakes (easy conversion), a lot of people tell me they don't like them on light trailers. The outback has rear drums, I have been looking into electronic drum breaks to go there instead (I like to make things as complicated as possible) So I can manually control the trailer from the cab. Also I need to get longer parking brake cables so I can put the e-brake handle on the tongue. Also I need to GET TO WORK!!!!!

Did a little work today, yay! tore out the brake lines, fuel lines, and any thing left in the interior. Went to get the fuel out of the tank and discovered a nest of black widows. I think I will get some raid before going much further. This weekend I think I will break out the grinder and lighten the thing up!! :eyebrows:

[ATTACH]120942[/ATTACH]

Simple wiring plan for the trailer. What do you yall think??

I would also like to draw a charge from the tow vehicle to charge up while the key is in the on position, and run the brake lights and turn signals.

Have you considered some type of solar panel for the roof to charge your battery(s) on the trailer?

[QUOTE=queeg9k;3106743]

I would also like to draw a charge from the tow vehicle to charge up while the key is in the on position, and run the brake lights and turn signals.[/QUOTE]

Would you be able to hook up the tail lights to a standard trailer harness?

So you could run the harness from your car and your car would power the break lights/turn signals/driving lights like a normal trailer?

The standard simple ones like this?
[IMG]http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/trailer-wiring-3.jpg[/IMG]

[QUOTE=snyda;3107634]Have you considered some type of solar panel for the roof to charge your battery(s) on the trailer?[/QUOTE]

Too expensive to get a panel that would be big enough to charge the system in a timely manner i.e. under a day. Would be nice if I can find a way to do it on the cheap.

[QUOTE=stupidchicken03;3107648]Would you be able to hook up the tail lights to a standard trailer harness?

So you could run the harness from your car and your car would power the break lights/turn signals/driving lights like a normal trailer?

The standard simple ones like this?
[IMG]http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/trailer-wiring-3.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]

Yes run a harness from the car to run the break lights and turn signals another run to charge up the trailer while the tow vehicle is on. Using a nice thick cable :thumb: I would prefer to use a 7 pin connecter, so I can add stuff later with out having to re-wire the 3/4 pin.

Eventualy I would also like to put a ham radio antenna and a cb antenna all drilled through the roof of the trailer (so I can get a good radio ground plane) but they need a coax.

Yea deff would be a good idea to have more than just a 3 or 4 pin

[QUOTE=queeg9k;3107777]Too expensive to get a panel that would be big enough to charge the system in a timely manner i.e. under a day. Would be nice if I can find a way to do it on the cheap.

...Eventualy I would also like to put a ham radio antenna...[/QUOTE]

Keep an eye out for Harbor Freight coupons - esp around thanksgiving, they'll have 40-50% coupons well worth using on the big solar panels they sell, they're actually pretty decently priced and good output...

...and, you're a ham too! man, i've been reading more and more threads mentioning ham activity... i finally fired up my yaesu today after something like 6 years...

...and a thought for the wagon, go LED tails etc to conserve on power?

[QUOTE=tesh;3107858]Keep an eye out for Harbor Freight coupons - esp around thanksgiving, they'll have 40-50% coupons well worth using on the big solar panels they sell, they're actually pretty decently priced and good output...

...and, you're a ham too! man, i've been reading more and more threads mentioning ham activity... i finally fired up my yaesu today after something like 6 years...

...and a thought for the wagon, go LED tails etc to conserve on power?[/QUOTE]

I am just going to use the incandecent that is on the trailer already, when they are used the tow vehicle will be powering them so they should be fine.
+1 for harbor freight, did not think of them for solar!

This:
[url=http://www.harborfreight.com/15-watt-12-volt-solar-panel-96418.html]15 Watt, 12 Volt Solar Panel[/url]

And also this:
[url=http://www.harborfreight.com/7-amp-solar-charge-regulator-96728.html]7 Amp Solar Charge Regulator[/url]