Simpsons did it.
[IMG]http://www.glebserbin.com/photos/i-XtFHFQH/0/S/i-XtFHFQH-S.jpg[/IMG]

I've been playing with the idea myself as well. I figure if you need to you can do a trailer brake using the stock rear caliper/hub assembly by running a stainless steel line to an auxiliary port on the tow vehicle which would be actuated by a hydraulic hand-brake.

Is that going to be to much weight up front with the axle so far back?I had this prob when I built my bike trailer, had to move the axle forward

[QUOTE=golfsick;3084103]Is that going to be to much weight up front with the axle so far back?I had this prob when I built my bike trailer, had to move the axle forward[/QUOTE]

That is a huge concern of mine, I kinda won't know if it is going to be too much weight until I get the thing built (or mocked up anyway). After it is built than I can put the front on a scale and see if the axle needs to move forward. I am going to try to keep as much heavy stuff aft of the rear wheels as I can. Like batteries, fresh water tank (yes as the tank empties it will change the weight ratio) I do realize that trailers handle better with more weight forward of the rear axle.

If it winds up I have to move the axle, it will be a real ish to move the wheel openings. If that is the case I would be in for a lot more work. Lose the stock suspension bits and switch over to a regular trailer drop axle setup or perhaps a torsions style axle.

Remove the rear diff and just run the outer CV joint.
Or, use the rear diff to run a generator to charge a battery array.

[ATTACH]121413[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]121414[/ATTACH]

Just picked up the donor car to start building!!

The front end was lighter than I expected, even with the front horns and radiator support it was easy for two to pick up the front end. When we lifted it into the trailer we put some jack stands about 1.5 feet from the back wheel and it felt balanced front to back. Cant wait to start cutting!!!-anyone want to buy the radiator support and front horns with the firewall? CHEAP!!!

Do you need rear doors? I got a few extra

Dude I bought it from was parting it out and took them off. You can kinda see one in the back seat, or where the back seats would be. The other door is in the truck. Thanks for the offer though. Might need some glass if I break any hanging the doors.

Got that to lmk

just came back for the update - saw your trailer donor in the 'what did i buy this time' thread lol

can't wait to see it get closer! good idea for the harbor freight donor, but make sure when you transfer the registration that the gvwr of the hf trailer doesnt get exceeded by the gvwr of the donor shell on that trailer. if you're in/near elk grove (it's a cow town) call up the powersports / tractor supply places about just buying a trailer tounge - they can sell you something that all you'll have to do is weld/mount it to the unibody rails near the firewall...

Nice man! Big step closer :D

Still don't have a hitch on my wagon, gotta get that this week to see where the tongue is going to wind up. Anyone got suggestions as to where to cut the front part off? I want to try and save it for someone that needs that stuff. I don't need the firewall or anything up there. I will take some better pic later today when my cousin drops it off.

Are you gunna leave the front doors like they did in the pic in post 16?

[QUOTE=stupidchicken03;3098598]Are you gunna leave the front doors like they did in the pic in post 16?[/QUOTE]

Yes-I think I will keep all the doors. Gotta bolt a tongue on it and see how much it will weigh (at the tongue) and see if I need to loose doors to save weight (weld shut and cut the interior parts out) The fronts are bigger than the rears so I would like to use the front passenger as the entrance.

So your answer is I dont know yet. keeping front passenger fo sho others tbd

Also I am not sure the pic in post 16 is real or not, kinda looks shooped to me.
Gancherov says "Simpsons did it." Can you elaborate on that?

if you kept all the doors, would all 5 be functional (open/close)?