Saved from da Repo man!
01-06-2013, 08:33 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Saved from da Repo man!
Recently (September 12') got an 06' WRX Wagon Limited in need of some light TLC from a recovery auction in South Florida. I needed a DD to replace my petrol chugging rock toy and a Subaru seemed like a great counter part. After all, one can never have enough drive wheels.
That said, here it is!
She arrived from Florida in dire need of a bath or six.
But cleaned up rather nicely...
Got her for 10k with 80k miles. All of the "wear and tear" seems to be minutely cosmetic. Typical nicks on the door cards, which will end up being re-upholstered in the near-ish future. Few really faint, rust colored stains (circular, so I'm gonna assume someone left something damp/circular on the rear seat for a prolonged amount of time and... tada!) on the rear seat and a single apparent cigarette burn hole on the rear seat.
Amazing enough, no nasty smoke smell, and after a few hours cleaning her up/detailing it, I was fairly surprised to see the interior turn out looking rather new. The biggest flaws are the bug nicks all over the bumper and hood, many little nicks and probably 6-8 small dings in random spots on the body, **** Blaupunkt head-unit, mediocre stock speakers, and the few aforementioned interior issues.
Apart from the bells and whistles you get with the limited, she came with a slightly damaged tint job (woo, features!), Yakima Rack cross bars & bicycle attachment, rear tow bar, and Hella Supertone horns that seem to have a short somewhere, as they seem to take frequent lunch breaks.
Also worth mentioning that the timing belt cover is missing, tires are almost bald, and the clutch is on its last legs. First thing's first.... tires and wheels, seeing as the current tires are nearly bald...
Ah, that's better.
Sparco/OZ Assetto Garas and 225/40/17 Federal 595s. I've also since wrapped the stock wheels in Blizzaks for future snowboarding trips.
I also picked up a Cobb AP, New in Box off eBay. Gent over in Europe bought one, and they apparently shipped him two. It seemed sketch as the guy had very little feedback, but none of which was negative so I took the risk. 350$ and 3 days later, I get this at the front door.
Also got tired of the OEM shift **** looking like it had freshly returned from 12 rounds in the ring with Tyson, so this...
Turned into this (12' WRX ****) ...
Now.... to do something about that shot clutch.
That should do the trick...
Had it all thrown in along with the notorious "Uncle Scotty's Cocktail" for an end result of a leaps and BOUNDS better feel in shifting. I can actually put pressure on the throttle without smelling freshly cooked clutch!
Also went ahead and changed the oil with the Oil Change kit I won at this past year's Bay Area Meet.
That said, here it is!
She arrived from Florida in dire need of a bath or six.
But cleaned up rather nicely...
Got her for 10k with 80k miles. All of the "wear and tear" seems to be minutely cosmetic. Typical nicks on the door cards, which will end up being re-upholstered in the near-ish future. Few really faint, rust colored stains (circular, so I'm gonna assume someone left something damp/circular on the rear seat for a prolonged amount of time and... tada!) on the rear seat and a single apparent cigarette burn hole on the rear seat.
Amazing enough, no nasty smoke smell, and after a few hours cleaning her up/detailing it, I was fairly surprised to see the interior turn out looking rather new. The biggest flaws are the bug nicks all over the bumper and hood, many little nicks and probably 6-8 small dings in random spots on the body, **** Blaupunkt head-unit, mediocre stock speakers, and the few aforementioned interior issues.
Apart from the bells and whistles you get with the limited, she came with a slightly damaged tint job (woo, features!), Yakima Rack cross bars & bicycle attachment, rear tow bar, and Hella Supertone horns that seem to have a short somewhere, as they seem to take frequent lunch breaks.
Also worth mentioning that the timing belt cover is missing, tires are almost bald, and the clutch is on its last legs. First thing's first.... tires and wheels, seeing as the current tires are nearly bald...
Ah, that's better.
Sparco/OZ Assetto Garas and 225/40/17 Federal 595s. I've also since wrapped the stock wheels in Blizzaks for future snowboarding trips.
I also picked up a Cobb AP, New in Box off eBay. Gent over in Europe bought one, and they apparently shipped him two. It seemed sketch as the guy had very little feedback, but none of which was negative so I took the risk. 350$ and 3 days later, I get this at the front door.
Also got tired of the OEM shift **** looking like it had freshly returned from 12 rounds in the ring with Tyson, so this...
Turned into this (12' WRX ****) ...
Now.... to do something about that shot clutch.
That should do the trick...
Had it all thrown in along with the notorious "Uncle Scotty's Cocktail" for an end result of a leaps and BOUNDS better feel in shifting. I can actually put pressure on the throttle without smelling freshly cooked clutch!
Also went ahead and changed the oil with the Oil Change kit I won at this past year's Bay Area Meet.
Last edited by KennyBooBear; 01-06-2013 at 09:25 PM.
01-06-2013, 08:37 PM
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
Next on the to do list will be the timing belt. Will be going with the Gates TCKWP328RB which is essentially their Racing Blue timing belt, water pump, and necessary gaskettry to go along with.
Additionally intent on throwing in the Mishimoto T-Stat at the same time, as well as a Mishimoto aluminum radiator. I figure if I'm pulling it all out ANYWAYS....
Also, if anyone is curious, I AM on the lookout for a timing belt cover as frankly, riding around without one is a mildly vulnerable feeling.
After all of the above, she'll be in tip top mechanical order and I can focus on the fun bits. It's a bit like a woman. You wine her and dine her, and eventually she's bound to reveal the crown jewels.
Initial modification plan is to end up with a practical DD (as that's what she is), while still boosting the fun factor.
Exhaust/intake/induction/engine plans thus far are the Gimmick Cat Back (just ordered), Cobb Catted DP, Perrin Catless UP, Gimmick 4-ply inlet, and the lovely SPT intake. I realize I'll need the kartboy hangars for the Gimmick, but I'll be installing all of this at the same time, so I'm not too concerned with having it until I get everything else. Also intent on going with a larger TMIC, but nothing too grandiose. Perhaps just a GD STi TMIC or maybe even an eBay TMIC as I've read they're not half bad. Time will confirm the latter, though.
As for suspension, I'm still not entirely sure how/where I want to go as there are seemingly limitless options. Part of me wants to spring for the Ground Control Coilovers, while another part of me is saying to hunt down a set of Ohlins. Alternately I've been looking at KW & Bilstein.
That said, I can't help but entertain the cheaper side of my head that's got a glimpse of the ISC N1 coilovers. I may very well end up with these, as worst case scenario, I can always sell them and recoup half the investment, which is a drop in the bucket assuming I were to do the same with say, a set of Ohlins or the Ground Controls.
In terms of braking, I think CL Sintered RC5+ Pads, DBA 5000XS rotors, Stainless lines, a good quality fluid, MC brace, on the stock 4 pots should keep me stopping consistently and repeatedly.
I'm sure in time, I'll think of other goodies, but frankly I'm usually more focused on building my other toy while this one takes me to and from work. Expect the majority, if not all of ^ to be done by Summer 2013.
CLUTCH ISSUES! Or are they?
So the Spec Stage 3+ was installed on the 31st. Speed Element had it in and back out the front door in less than 6 hours. I'd normally do this sort of thing myself, but time unfortunately was NOT of the essence, and for $480 with a flywheel resurface, I couldn't come up with more reasons NOT to have them do it than otherwise.
Right off the bat, I can say the clutch evidently bites MUCH harder. That said, there is one very notable issue.
I'm very new to Subarus, I'll admit. That said, I've had a plethora of other vehicles in the past, and I've learned to drive stick and launch from a stop by simply idling off the clutch. This obviously puts the least wear and tear on your clutch, and also results in a nice, smooth daily driving experience. This was fine with the stock (albeit smelly) clutch. With this new clutch, however, I seem to can't help but get a jerky, hesitant launch unless I peg the revs up above 1700. This seems odd to me as it goes against everything I've ever known about a vehicle, and experienced in anything else. Mind you, that includes a 2000 360 Modena, a 2004 Z06, 2 Porsche Boxsters, and a Jeep Wrangler. I've never found myself in a situation (save for feather the clutch and throttle on a steep incline) where I ALWAYS had to bounce my tach up high, just to take off smoothly.
The other caveat to this, as one can imagine, occurs when attempting to park. As you can imagine, you can't exactly bump your revs up when you've got a foot of room in front and behind you, without making not hitting someone else's vehicle considerably more difficult. Any input on this? I've made a video documenting the issue. Unfortunately, the other issue I'm having that SOUNDS like the clutch fork rattling lightly inside the bell housing, or possiby (unlikely) a bearing squeaking, cannot be heard in the video. The latter issue can be toggled by simply depressing the clutch peddle with the lightest of pressure applied. The moment it's released, though, the issue returns.
Anyhow, vidyuh!
Additionally intent on throwing in the Mishimoto T-Stat at the same time, as well as a Mishimoto aluminum radiator. I figure if I'm pulling it all out ANYWAYS....
Also, if anyone is curious, I AM on the lookout for a timing belt cover as frankly, riding around without one is a mildly vulnerable feeling.
After all of the above, she'll be in tip top mechanical order and I can focus on the fun bits. It's a bit like a woman. You wine her and dine her, and eventually she's bound to reveal the crown jewels.
Initial modification plan is to end up with a practical DD (as that's what she is), while still boosting the fun factor.
Exhaust/intake/induction/engine plans thus far are the Gimmick Cat Back (just ordered), Cobb Catted DP, Perrin Catless UP, Gimmick 4-ply inlet, and the lovely SPT intake. I realize I'll need the kartboy hangars for the Gimmick, but I'll be installing all of this at the same time, so I'm not too concerned with having it until I get everything else. Also intent on going with a larger TMIC, but nothing too grandiose. Perhaps just a GD STi TMIC or maybe even an eBay TMIC as I've read they're not half bad. Time will confirm the latter, though.
As for suspension, I'm still not entirely sure how/where I want to go as there are seemingly limitless options. Part of me wants to spring for the Ground Control Coilovers, while another part of me is saying to hunt down a set of Ohlins. Alternately I've been looking at KW & Bilstein.
That said, I can't help but entertain the cheaper side of my head that's got a glimpse of the ISC N1 coilovers. I may very well end up with these, as worst case scenario, I can always sell them and recoup half the investment, which is a drop in the bucket assuming I were to do the same with say, a set of Ohlins or the Ground Controls.
In terms of braking, I think CL Sintered RC5+ Pads, DBA 5000XS rotors, Stainless lines, a good quality fluid, MC brace, on the stock 4 pots should keep me stopping consistently and repeatedly.
I'm sure in time, I'll think of other goodies, but frankly I'm usually more focused on building my other toy while this one takes me to and from work. Expect the majority, if not all of ^ to be done by Summer 2013.
CLUTCH ISSUES! Or are they?
So the Spec Stage 3+ was installed on the 31st. Speed Element had it in and back out the front door in less than 6 hours. I'd normally do this sort of thing myself, but time unfortunately was NOT of the essence, and for $480 with a flywheel resurface, I couldn't come up with more reasons NOT to have them do it than otherwise.
Right off the bat, I can say the clutch evidently bites MUCH harder. That said, there is one very notable issue.
I'm very new to Subarus, I'll admit. That said, I've had a plethora of other vehicles in the past, and I've learned to drive stick and launch from a stop by simply idling off the clutch. This obviously puts the least wear and tear on your clutch, and also results in a nice, smooth daily driving experience. This was fine with the stock (albeit smelly) clutch. With this new clutch, however, I seem to can't help but get a jerky, hesitant launch unless I peg the revs up above 1700. This seems odd to me as it goes against everything I've ever known about a vehicle, and experienced in anything else. Mind you, that includes a 2000 360 Modena, a 2004 Z06, 2 Porsche Boxsters, and a Jeep Wrangler. I've never found myself in a situation (save for feather the clutch and throttle on a steep incline) where I ALWAYS had to bounce my tach up high, just to take off smoothly.
The other caveat to this, as one can imagine, occurs when attempting to park. As you can imagine, you can't exactly bump your revs up when you've got a foot of room in front and behind you, without making not hitting someone else's vehicle considerably more difficult. Any input on this? I've made a video documenting the issue. Unfortunately, the other issue I'm having that SOUNDS like the clutch fork rattling lightly inside the bell housing, or possiby (unlikely) a bearing squeaking, cannot be heard in the video. The latter issue can be toggled by simply depressing the clutch peddle with the lightest of pressure applied. The moment it's released, though, the issue returns.
Anyhow, vidyuh!
Last edited by KennyBooBear; 01-06-2013 at 09:06 PM.
01-06-2013, 08:39 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
And perhaps moar?
Her current state as of 01/05/2013
So if anyone sees ^ rolling around Northern California with Louisiana tags, you know good and well that you've not gone mental.
Her current state as of 01/05/2013
So if anyone sees ^ rolling around Northern California with Louisiana tags, you know good and well that you've not gone mental.
01-06-2013, 10:10 PM
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 1,035
Car Info: 02 WRX Wagon
That's a good looking scoob you got. Welcome to the club!
These motors have exactly 0 power at idle and a very uncomfortably high-in-the-pedal-travel clutch engagement point. I had a 2.0L motor previously, and now a built 2.5L, and there is no way either motor would allow you to take off from a standstill while idling. Recently, I swapped in a 95 wrx/sti transmission which is a 4.11 final drive (instead of 3.9) and now I can ALMOST pull away at idle. It still requires that very delicately slip the clutch, and I have an OEM clutch. Your uprated clutch will be much harder to slip, so you'll just have to get used to holding ~2000rpm to get it moving.
Good luck!
These motors have exactly 0 power at idle and a very uncomfortably high-in-the-pedal-travel clutch engagement point. I had a 2.0L motor previously, and now a built 2.5L, and there is no way either motor would allow you to take off from a standstill while idling. Recently, I swapped in a 95 wrx/sti transmission which is a 4.11 final drive (instead of 3.9) and now I can ALMOST pull away at idle. It still requires that very delicately slip the clutch, and I have an OEM clutch. Your uprated clutch will be much harder to slip, so you'll just have to get used to holding ~2000rpm to get it moving.
Good luck!
01-06-2013, 11:01 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
That's a good looking scoob you got. Welcome to the club!
These motors have exactly 0 power at idle and a very uncomfortably high-in-the-pedal-travel clutch engagement point. I had a 2.0L motor previously, and now a built 2.5L, and there is no way either motor would allow you to take off from a standstill while idling. Recently, I swapped in a 95 wrx/sti transmission which is a 4.11 final drive (instead of 3.9) and now I can ALMOST pull away at idle. It still requires that very delicately slip the clutch, and I have an OEM clutch. Your uprated clutch will be much harder to slip, so you'll just have to get used to holding ~2000rpm to get it moving.
Good luck!
These motors have exactly 0 power at idle and a very uncomfortably high-in-the-pedal-travel clutch engagement point. I had a 2.0L motor previously, and now a built 2.5L, and there is no way either motor would allow you to take off from a standstill while idling. Recently, I swapped in a 95 wrx/sti transmission which is a 4.11 final drive (instead of 3.9) and now I can ALMOST pull away at idle. It still requires that very delicately slip the clutch, and I have an OEM clutch. Your uprated clutch will be much harder to slip, so you'll just have to get used to holding ~2000rpm to get it moving.
Good luck!
As for the clutch, that was sort of my assumption but I wanted to know for sure before going rampant on it and getting outside the window of opportunity to take it back to Speed Element for a looksie. That said, with the OEM clutch I never had the aforementioned issue. I could simply idle off, and lightly apply throttle for a very smooth, slow, and controlled start off the line. Everything in my mind is telling me I'm beating on the clutch/driveline when I peg it up all the time, but I guess I'll just get used to it lol
Thanks! And yea, I'm quite happy with them. My only complaint is that, whatever they use to coat them with is the equivalent to black felt and lint. Brake dust STICKS to these damn things and thus far, the only method I've found that will clean them reliably is me literally rubbing the brake dust off with my fingers with water. Royal pain in the *** if I must be honest.
01-11-2013, 01:05 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
So to update on the clutch "issues," I've pretty much concluded that I just have to get accustomed to a clutch biting like crazy, and accept that the Subaru doesn't produce the low end torque that my Jeep does lol
The squeaking has gotten louder though, and I'm now positive it's the throw-out bearing. I call Spec and they tell me I have to remove it, ship it to them so they can basically make sure it's the TO bearing, then after testing it etc. ship it back.
That's all good and well but this is a DD so that's hardly practical. I asked if one could be shipped to me on my dollar, and upon re-installing it, I'd ship the faulty one back so that I could be refunded what I paid for the second one. This too, is no good. So I asked if I could go and purchase a Fuji Industries (Subaru OEM) TO bearing, install it, and then have them cover the cost.
In a nut shell, no matter the scenario, they seem extremely unwilling to work with a customer that otherwise put faith in them, only to receive a product made from **** materials (was sort of funny because he kept trying to tell me the TO bearing with the kit is an OEM specification TO bearing, especially after I mentioned the idea of me buying one from Subaru. It very well may be, but OEM Spec. doesn't mean OEM.... not sure what his boss has brainwashed him into thinking.) that failed as soon as I used the product for the first time.
What's worse is I'll now end up having to spend more on labor charges (because we all know good and well they certainly aren't going to cover cost of labor) to replace the piece of **** TO bearing they supplied me with, and are otherwise unwilling to do me right by replacing with some form of logical planning.
TLDR; Cliff Notes: **** Spec, because apparently they feel the same sentiment about their customers.
The squeaking has gotten louder though, and I'm now positive it's the throw-out bearing. I call Spec and they tell me I have to remove it, ship it to them so they can basically make sure it's the TO bearing, then after testing it etc. ship it back.
That's all good and well but this is a DD so that's hardly practical. I asked if one could be shipped to me on my dollar, and upon re-installing it, I'd ship the faulty one back so that I could be refunded what I paid for the second one. This too, is no good. So I asked if I could go and purchase a Fuji Industries (Subaru OEM) TO bearing, install it, and then have them cover the cost.
In a nut shell, no matter the scenario, they seem extremely unwilling to work with a customer that otherwise put faith in them, only to receive a product made from **** materials (was sort of funny because he kept trying to tell me the TO bearing with the kit is an OEM specification TO bearing, especially after I mentioned the idea of me buying one from Subaru. It very well may be, but OEM Spec. doesn't mean OEM.... not sure what his boss has brainwashed him into thinking.) that failed as soon as I used the product for the first time.
What's worse is I'll now end up having to spend more on labor charges (because we all know good and well they certainly aren't going to cover cost of labor) to replace the piece of **** TO bearing they supplied me with, and are otherwise unwilling to do me right by replacing with some form of logical planning.
TLDR; Cliff Notes: **** Spec, because apparently they feel the same sentiment about their customers.
01-14-2013, 09:43 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Recorded a video of the TO bearing squeal to send via email to Spec (and thus the crap quality of said video.) Hopefully they'll decide to get off their asses and finally get this rectified as it gets louder by the day.
01-14-2013, 10:05 PM
#9
[QUOTE=Thanks! And yea, I'm quite happy with them. My only complaint is that, whatever they use to coat them with is the equivalent to black felt and lint. Brake dust STICKS to these damn things and thus far, the only method I've found that will clean them reliably is me literally rubbing the brake dust off with my fingers with water. Royal pain in the *** if I must be honest.[/QUOTE]
Seriously! ive had them for about a year now and i it is so hard to get the brake dust off i as well have not found a better way to clean them off completely! ive tried lots of things as well! let me know if you find a good way! haha
Seriously! ive had them for about a year now and i it is so hard to get the brake dust off i as well have not found a better way to clean them off completely! ive tried lots of things as well! let me know if you find a good way! haha
01-15-2013, 12:53 AM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
For me, this seems to get the cleanest wheel.
Keep the wheel wet though, or the brake dust will re-solidify/dry back onto the wheel. Once you've finished rubbing all the brake dust off, crank up the power to spray it all away. I end up with a spotless wheel, but by the fourth wheel my fingers quite literally feel raw...
Alternately I just take them to a DIY car wash (one right next door, score!) and power wash them clean but the results aren't nearly as good as when I use the other method... I reserve this for when I just wanna clean the car on a quick whim.
01-15-2013, 03:01 AM
#11
Nice wagon, and awesome save from da repo man!
As for the clutch issues, a stage 3+ clutch is not ideal for daily driving on a stock wrx.. at all.
Its a high performance race clutch buillt more with the "track dedicated" high horsepower cars in mind.
If your goal for the car is not to be a 500+whp/tq monster, you may want to think about swapping it out for something a little lighter duty. It looks like daily driving that thing would get pretty frustrating, pretty fast.. i cant imagine stop and go traffic lol.
Best of luck, keep us updated!
As for the clutch issues, a stage 3+ clutch is not ideal for daily driving on a stock wrx.. at all.
Its a high performance race clutch buillt more with the "track dedicated" high horsepower cars in mind.
If your goal for the car is not to be a 500+whp/tq monster, you may want to think about swapping it out for something a little lighter duty. It looks like daily driving that thing would get pretty frustrating, pretty fast.. i cant imagine stop and go traffic lol.
Best of luck, keep us updated!
Last edited by Volkey; 01-15-2013 at 03:09 AM.
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