Don't need a ballast or anything unique. What you really need is a load resistor, thats the fundamental basis of w/e they are calling it these days, flasher modules, etc. They are all fundamentally load resistors.

Looks like this:

50W 6ohm is the most common to resolve most hyper flashing and Canbus irregularity issues. Make sure to mount them on metal as resistors will get hot as that is their operational nature. You will need one per LED bulb.

 

I got all of my LEDs from amazon. Also tapped in resistors for the turn signals.

Although I had to keep one halogen on the parking light circuit. **** got cray when they were all LED.

 

ah! thats what those were, resistors! So our CAN bus reads voltage output from turn signals?

too bright?

 

LED's have different voltage, wattage requirements and output. They also ignite a lot more quicker or instantly than a halogen incandescent filament that requires to be warmed up; some what like metal halide HID's, but then not. Slight similarity in principle but not the same technology.


You will experience hyperflashing when converting to LEDs from halogen, regardless of a computerized ECM or old school vehicle.

That is due to the LED Diodes being way more efficient in ignition than the halogen filament. That is why there is the load resistor to add more load and slow down the voltage transferring so that the pulses of voltage do not get relayed as quickly from end to end.

Just think of a LW flywheel, its lighter so you can rev faster compared to the original heavier weighted flywheel disc. More efficiency means you can ignite, turn on and off the bulb faster with a much shorter delay time.

 

Been to this meet once before, got nothing to do tonight and deciding whether to make the 30 mile trip down for this or not.

 

The parking lights started blinking with the turn signals. Everything on the parking circuit. Including the interior lights.


I also don't think the ECU controls the blinkers. It would be much simpler to use a blink circuit. But the problem with a blink circuit is that they rely on resistance to function properly. If the resistance isn't right (LED, Halogen, burnout) the blink circuit will function differently (hyper blinking).

I think there is a similar kind of function in the parking circuit. If the resistance isn't right, the circuit goes crazy.

I feel like all of this is kind of a good indicator that you have a burnout.

 

doo ett! i drive about the same to get there if i do end up going. lol. well worth the drive though!

ahhh! gotcha! thanks!

 

I didn't do my turn signals because I didn't want to do the resistors. They sell different flasher modules as well that will also correct the issue. Josh has one of the modules in his OBXT and can do all those crazy different blink patterns haha, like sequence right to left LOL.

I bought some of mine from SuperbrightLEDS and some from V-LEDs. The Sperbrights were definitely brighter, but the V-LEDs were better built. I sold the V-LEDs in the end though. This is a 7440 in my tails in the WRX. Didn't work, it would blow the fuse when you stepped on the brake. So I flipped polarity and it would blow the other fuse, so I could get no driving light OR brake lights, but not both. Unfortunately, the FXT uses the same bulbs (dual filament).



Possibly selling the BBS tonight so may or may not be at the meet tonight.

 

Won't be out, still sick

 

Anyone have a laptop with a serial port and a cable?

 

What for? And what is the cable supposed to go to? Message me

 

facebooked you

 

Anybody have an extra exhaust hanger? Stock or aftermarket, it doesn't matter. If you have one bring it prease!

 

You didn't tell me early enough!!!!

 

I'd bring one if I was coming lol

Come by tomorrow if someone else doesn't help you, Kenny.