Painted sideskirts -- do they last?
Thread Starter
VIP Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,023
From: Phoenix, AZ
Car Info: Subaru Impreza WRX 2002
I'm about to have my 2002 WRX visit the body shop (some turd in a '80s corvette tapped me from behind
) and get the rear bumper painted. I've seen a few WRX's in the gallery with the normally black "sideskirts" painted to match the body, and I REALLY like how it looks -- much more "polished" and somehow lower to the ground...
My question is, once you do this -- does it last? The rubber surface of those skirts doesn't seem to be the kind of material that would take or hold paint well. Do they pick up rock chips and sun damage right away?
Oh, and if you've had it done, how much did it cost you?
) and get the rear bumper painted. I've seen a few WRX's in the gallery with the normally black "sideskirts" painted to match the body, and I REALLY like how it looks -- much more "polished" and somehow lower to the ground...My question is, once you do this -- does it last? The rubber surface of those skirts doesn't seem to be the kind of material that would take or hold paint well. Do they pick up rock chips and sun damage right away?
Oh, and if you've had it done, how much did it cost you?
can u please give a local shop in the bay area if possible, for the decent prices too? i just got a quote today, 100 dollars for each sideskirt, 200 dollars total. he said it's cuz the skirts are textured so he'll have to sand it down =.=
just picked my car up today from the body shop after getting rear ended...i had them paint the sideskirts at the same time...im not sure how much it costs...but it was free to me =D hmm i heard the body shop behind carlsen subaru is good mine looks pretty nice at least south bay auto body
it cost 'round 200 to have them painted and sanded down. i don't think they will peel. u ca even buy the painted side skirts at the dealer for around 240. 00 and it comes painted w og suby paint.
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I wouldn't pay, personally. Go get some fairly coarse sandpaper (maybe 200). Sand the bejeezus out of your skirts until it looks like most of the texture is gone. Take some 400 sandpaper and give it another couple passes. Don't worry about making the texture disappear 100%, just pretty good.
Purchase:
- Bulldog Adhesion Promoter
- Plastikote Flexible Bumper & Trim Primer (I use grey for WRB)
- Color-matched paint and clear coat from paintworldinc.com (2 cans of each is plenty and costs ~$50)
Then, find a place that's warm and dry (I run a space heater in my basement or garage). Apply 2 coats of Bulldog Adhesion Promoter about 5 minutes apart. Then, apply the primer in thin coats, about 5 minutes apart. It should take you at least 3 coats to actually cover fully. Then apply 2-3 more coats, each time as thinly and evenly as possible. Let that dry for a good 30 minutes or so. Then use very fine sandpaper (600 or so, wet or dry) and sand the primer. You may expose a little of the black again - that's OK. Once you feel you've got a smooth surface, wipe all the dust off with a damp rag and let dry. Then, apply 1-2 more coats of primer. Let dry for ~30 minutes.
Before I apply color, I use a nylon scuff pad. It's like very fine sandpaper - it takes off any little peaks or dust specs that may be in the primer surface. Give one last wipe with a damp cloth. Apply your color - same procedure, thin coats, about 5 minutes apart. Probably should do 8-10 passes -not "coats"- because each pass is so thin, it's not really a full coat. Let that dry for ~30 minutes. It will look very dull when dry - that's OK. That's why they say the clear coat is "necessary to achieve the proper match". The clear coat will enhance the color as well as bring out the metallic look. Then start applying your clear coats. Thin is never as important as now. Go too thick, and it will drip and/or get milky. Again, probably like 8-10 coats passes. Resist temptation to fill in a spot that doesn't look "as glossy." Wait 5 minutes or so and get it on the next pass.
Remember - this all assumes ideal conditions: warm (at least 70-degrees-ish and virtually no humidity). If you can't achieve these conditions, DON'T PAINT! My experience proves that NOTHING is as important as the conditions. My front grill is flawless while another part I painted did not hold up. Technique is second highest, but wrong conditions can't be made up for with technique. If you follow all of the above, I think you end up with something just as good as a pro job for much less $$. Yes, it takes your time, but I bill myself out to myself very cheaply!
Purchase:
- Bulldog Adhesion Promoter
- Plastikote Flexible Bumper & Trim Primer (I use grey for WRB)
- Color-matched paint and clear coat from paintworldinc.com (2 cans of each is plenty and costs ~$50)
Then, find a place that's warm and dry (I run a space heater in my basement or garage). Apply 2 coats of Bulldog Adhesion Promoter about 5 minutes apart. Then, apply the primer in thin coats, about 5 minutes apart. It should take you at least 3 coats to actually cover fully. Then apply 2-3 more coats, each time as thinly and evenly as possible. Let that dry for a good 30 minutes or so. Then use very fine sandpaper (600 or so, wet or dry) and sand the primer. You may expose a little of the black again - that's OK. Once you feel you've got a smooth surface, wipe all the dust off with a damp rag and let dry. Then, apply 1-2 more coats of primer. Let dry for ~30 minutes.
Before I apply color, I use a nylon scuff pad. It's like very fine sandpaper - it takes off any little peaks or dust specs that may be in the primer surface. Give one last wipe with a damp cloth. Apply your color - same procedure, thin coats, about 5 minutes apart. Probably should do 8-10 passes -not "coats"- because each pass is so thin, it's not really a full coat. Let that dry for ~30 minutes. It will look very dull when dry - that's OK. That's why they say the clear coat is "necessary to achieve the proper match". The clear coat will enhance the color as well as bring out the metallic look. Then start applying your clear coats. Thin is never as important as now. Go too thick, and it will drip and/or get milky. Again, probably like 8-10 coats passes. Resist temptation to fill in a spot that doesn't look "as glossy." Wait 5 minutes or so and get it on the next pass.
Remember - this all assumes ideal conditions: warm (at least 70-degrees-ish and virtually no humidity). If you can't achieve these conditions, DON'T PAINT! My experience proves that NOTHING is as important as the conditions. My front grill is flawless while another part I painted did not hold up. Technique is second highest, but wrong conditions can't be made up for with technique. If you follow all of the above, I think you end up with something just as good as a pro job for much less $$. Yes, it takes your time, but I bill myself out to myself very cheaply!
Last edited by sonicblue; Nov 7, 2003 at 09:11 AM.
i didnt have someone paint my skirts either. we had an installfest a long while back, and i just did it there.
went to buy paint matched paint, and sprayed the sucker. and with the occassional recoat of the clear coat, i have yet to see cracking. hopefully i want ever see it.
although mine isnt the shiniest, but it works.
went to buy paint matched paint, and sprayed the sucker. and with the occassional recoat of the clear coat, i have yet to see cracking. hopefully i want ever see it.
although mine isnt the shiniest, but it works.
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