Homemade HL harness
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: ALHAMBRA, CA
Posts: 159
Car Info: 2002 IMPREZA WRX WAGON
I just follow kilyung and made mine!!!!not that the first one take me half hour but the second just 15 mins. All of those can be found in autozone which boxed with blue background. I will post the part number specific item.
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
jjunior i just pmed you on impreza.net. this is clipped and pasted from that pm:
my lights aren't here yet, so i am kinda stuck as i would like to complete these harnesses before the lights arrive but i don't have the lights to look at. i am unclear on the small details.
1) on the oem 9007 bulb that gets dismantled: i got it down to the plastic plug, two outer metal prongs, and 4 inner wires(all used to connect to the bulb). i pulled the outer prongs out, now:
a) what should i do with the four middle wires? do all for of these wires mate to the middle prong on the other side?
b) should i pull the 3 prongs from the other side out? by 3 prongs i mean the ones that plug into the car when the harness is complete (opposite side of the bulb).
i assume i should do like this: pull everything out of the plastic plug. solder the two outer prongs to the prongs from the opposite side, and to the wires that will lead to the high/low beams. for the inner, middle prong... i am guessing i would solder the two ground wires to it, drill out the plug and re-install/epoxy everything?
2) on the fuel injector plug (makeshift h-1 connector): i trimmed the outer plastic down so it is just an oval plug. now i look inside to the connector where the metal prongs will meet the contacts to the bulb. i see to seperate prongs on either side with a plastic divider. should that divider be trimmed out or left alone? i am not really understanding how that plug works because if i remember correctly there is only one flat prong to an h1 bulb.
3) how long should the harness be? like what is the total length from connector to connector?
the rest seems straight forward (soldering and shrink wrapping, duh!)please forgive me for all the questions, but i don't want to screw this up and mess up a set of $800 dollar lights.
any help would be great, thanks a bunch!
my lights aren't here yet, so i am kinda stuck as i would like to complete these harnesses before the lights arrive but i don't have the lights to look at. i am unclear on the small details.
1) on the oem 9007 bulb that gets dismantled: i got it down to the plastic plug, two outer metal prongs, and 4 inner wires(all used to connect to the bulb). i pulled the outer prongs out, now:
a) what should i do with the four middle wires? do all for of these wires mate to the middle prong on the other side?
b) should i pull the 3 prongs from the other side out? by 3 prongs i mean the ones that plug into the car when the harness is complete (opposite side of the bulb).
i assume i should do like this: pull everything out of the plastic plug. solder the two outer prongs to the prongs from the opposite side, and to the wires that will lead to the high/low beams. for the inner, middle prong... i am guessing i would solder the two ground wires to it, drill out the plug and re-install/epoxy everything?
2) on the fuel injector plug (makeshift h-1 connector): i trimmed the outer plastic down so it is just an oval plug. now i look inside to the connector where the metal prongs will meet the contacts to the bulb. i see to seperate prongs on either side with a plastic divider. should that divider be trimmed out or left alone? i am not really understanding how that plug works because if i remember correctly there is only one flat prong to an h1 bulb.
3) how long should the harness be? like what is the total length from connector to connector?
the rest seems straight forward (soldering and shrink wrapping, duh!)please forgive me for all the questions, but i don't want to screw this up and mess up a set of $800 dollar lights.
any help would be great, thanks a bunch!
Last edited by Tobey; 05-09-2003 at 05:54 PM.
#33
someone
please post the parts number as i will attemp to make my own harness.. i am sick of my home made wires that constantly slide in and out of my headlamp plugs.. sigh
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
haven't been around lately but i thought i'd answer a few of Tobey's old questions for others trying this.
1) depending on the 9007 bulb manufacturer you will see either three or four wires connecting the bulb to the three prongs. the middle prong is shared ground (typically) and is connected to the two middle wires. the best thing to do is remove all the wires. once you remove the wires, the prongs will fall out (you did seperate the plastic plug into two halves right?) you only need the 9007 plastic plug and the three prongs. you'll need to drill very small holes into the 9007 plug to pass wires through and solder them directly to the back of the prongs. the plastic plug serves just to hold everything together (otherwise you could use spade connectors instead - not very secure).
2) all that needs to be done is trim down the fuel injector plug into an oval shape. there's no need to trim out the plastic divider. if you look at your h1 connector on the headlight, there are two prongs. those prongs fit perfectly into the fi plug. polarity is of no issue with the h1 bulb so no worries about which way to plug in the fi plug. however, you should notice that there's a fat side and thin side on the fi plug. the thin side should be plugged into the h1 connector between the prongs and the closest wall in the connector (fits better that way). h1 bulbs do have a single prong but they use the housing as ground. if you open up your headlight and examine the h1 bulb you'll see why there are two prongs on the connector.
3) harness length is not that important. don't want to make it too long as it'll heat up. added resistance, etc... i kept mine at about 6 inches. long enough to move out of the way during install. fyi. i can install my lights (driver AND passenger sides) in under 5 minutes with my harness.
soldering, shrink wrapping, and epoxying are very important to the longevity of your harness. i've had mine in torrential rains with no issues at all. i've also gone off road with no problems. if well made, your homemade harness will be as secure and maintenance free as a stock harness.
1) depending on the 9007 bulb manufacturer you will see either three or four wires connecting the bulb to the three prongs. the middle prong is shared ground (typically) and is connected to the two middle wires. the best thing to do is remove all the wires. once you remove the wires, the prongs will fall out (you did seperate the plastic plug into two halves right?) you only need the 9007 plastic plug and the three prongs. you'll need to drill very small holes into the 9007 plug to pass wires through and solder them directly to the back of the prongs. the plastic plug serves just to hold everything together (otherwise you could use spade connectors instead - not very secure).
2) all that needs to be done is trim down the fuel injector plug into an oval shape. there's no need to trim out the plastic divider. if you look at your h1 connector on the headlight, there are two prongs. those prongs fit perfectly into the fi plug. polarity is of no issue with the h1 bulb so no worries about which way to plug in the fi plug. however, you should notice that there's a fat side and thin side on the fi plug. the thin side should be plugged into the h1 connector between the prongs and the closest wall in the connector (fits better that way). h1 bulbs do have a single prong but they use the housing as ground. if you open up your headlight and examine the h1 bulb you'll see why there are two prongs on the connector.
3) harness length is not that important. don't want to make it too long as it'll heat up. added resistance, etc... i kept mine at about 6 inches. long enough to move out of the way during install. fyi. i can install my lights (driver AND passenger sides) in under 5 minutes with my harness.
soldering, shrink wrapping, and epoxying are very important to the longevity of your harness. i've had mine in torrential rains with no issues at all. i've also gone off road with no problems. if well made, your homemade harness will be as secure and maintenance free as a stock harness.
#35
I answered Tobey's questions for the most part through Pms on the other site just so you weren't worried about him. I think the center pin is actually Positive 12V and the two on either side are switched ground IIRC. The center wire only recives power when the lights are turned on and the ignition is on so you don't have to worry about killing your battery when grounding the - side to the frame. I used my harness that I made to hook up my HID's and it works great. I had to ground the wire from the headlight that usually goes to the switched pin in order to keep them from switching off when I hit the high beams. Having HIDs that switch on and off alot can be really hard on the bulbs and cause them to wear out prematurely.
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Awesome thread. Wish I would have seen it before I purchased my Hoyd Harness. However, I am trying to adapt my Hoyd harness to use with my HID kit. The only thing I am lacking is the crimp on terminal to attach the positive lead into the 9007 plug. It is a male connector that is slid into the 9007 plug (for the female 9007 connector). Does anyone know where these can be sourced?
For reference, here is a picture of the type of connector I mean. Obviously, I need one that hasn't been attached to anything yet.
For reference, here is a picture of the type of connector I mean. Obviously, I need one that hasn't been attached to anything yet.
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
ok i went to auto zone and got all that i need, but when i pulled the 9007 bulb apart i was left with nothing but a piece of plastic with 3 prongs in it and i think its pretty useless now am i suposed to leave the 3 metal wires that go inside the bulb because i removed them as well its jus 3 small holes there now that look pretty useless.....please help
#40
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: PA
Posts: 660
Car Info: TXS tbe, perrin goodies, v7 sti struts...bla bla bla lots of stuff!
I already bought a harness BUT I used vampire clips because it did not have the one connector on them.... What is the connector that has the white wires going from it. I see that you listed the parts there but I only need that connector. I will undo the vapire taps and hook the wire into that type of connector.
Thanks :-)
-Nigel
Thanks :-)
-Nigel
#42
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tronna
Posts: 23
Car Info: 93 Legacy LSE/93 Impreza TS
HL Harnesses
I have Plug and Play harnesses available for a number of Subaru uses..
- I have PNP headlamp adapters with 3 plugs (9007, 9005 and H1), no cutting crimping soldering or grinding down of a non-OEM connector to fit. This is weather resistant, like the stock OEM connectors should be. 55USD (the H1 connectors were 17bux a piece to my door with the quantities I had to buy - 100 housings, 12000 terminals).
- Levelling switches and harnesses. I make one using the black OEM plugs and connectors onto the switch. I use a circuit adder for power, and even the ground wire is included. My 13yo girl installed it on my TS wagon in 15 mins with the headlights out. Switch included.
- Orciari levelling setup. I have wired the Orciaris to adjust level, and I make adapter harnesses that don't use vampire taps for this liight setup.
- Next on the list - UK300 harnesses and levelling setup.
Let me know by email if interested.
Thanks.
- I have PNP headlamp adapters with 3 plugs (9007, 9005 and H1), no cutting crimping soldering or grinding down of a non-OEM connector to fit. This is weather resistant, like the stock OEM connectors should be. 55USD (the H1 connectors were 17bux a piece to my door with the quantities I had to buy - 100 housings, 12000 terminals).
- Levelling switches and harnesses. I make one using the black OEM plugs and connectors onto the switch. I use a circuit adder for power, and even the ground wire is included. My 13yo girl installed it on my TS wagon in 15 mins with the headlights out. Switch included.
- Orciari levelling setup. I have wired the Orciaris to adjust level, and I make adapter harnesses that don't use vampire taps for this liight setup.
- Next on the list - UK300 harnesses and levelling setup.
Let me know by email if interested.
Thanks.
#43
I have called every auto parts store around and they do not carry "Bosch Fuel Injection repair socket" (H1 connector). Help me pleeeeze. Kinda want to buy locally so I can install them as soon as possible. If I have to buy online, where can I find it? I am located in Olympia WA which is probally why none of the stores around here have it.
Jun
Jun
#44
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tronna
Posts: 23
Car Info: 93 Legacy LSE/93 Impreza TS
Bosch FI connector
This Bosch plug doesn't plug right in.
It doesn't use the proper terminals, you have to grind to make it fit, and it's not completely weatherproof.
I offer completely weatherproof solutions for a reasonable price, considering what the connectors cost to get them here.
It doesn't use the proper terminals, you have to grind to make it fit, and it's not completely weatherproof.
I offer completely weatherproof solutions for a reasonable price, considering what the connectors cost to get them here.