Krang

iTrader: (14)

While starting to disassemble my rear end to replace bushings I came to the realization that 6 years of salted Utah roads can do a number on galvanized bolts. Just about everything is seized, not only that, but the exteriors of the nuts have been comprimised to the point that even when I get the apropriate sized socket on there securely, I end up rounding the edges of the bolts.

Solutions? Any ideas for new hardware? I would like to replace with stainless if possible but I'm not sure if it will be strong enough, or should I just go with OEM replacements from Subaru?

Would it be a better idea to simply drop my rear subframe and try to do all this while it's off the car?

Tried:
PB Soak - multiple applications
Freezing the nut side of the bolt
Will try a torch tonight

theoutbackdream

iTrader: (15)

WD-40 has worked wonders for me when dealing with rusted bolts. I'd say go OEM and apply anti seize grease on it.

grambo

iTrader: (4)

I was gonna say heat. You have the idea apparently.

PSBeachBum

iTrader: (11)

Grinder!!

Shayhan27

iTrader: (4)

Heat......Wd-40 let it sit, and be patient....

sigterm

iTrader: (4)

If all that above doesn't work, heat it up, grab the biggest cheater bar you can and let her rip!

OEM or Grade8 for replacement bolts/hardware.

wouldn't do stainless.

mistaanime

iTrader: (12)

gotta torch it but even then.. you might as well replace..nuts and bolts are already weakend. Rather do it now then to deal with it later right?

devilzdriver

iTrader: (4)

I JUST HAD THIS ISSUE WITH THE REAR STRUT BOLTS! PB blaster and if them bad boys are rounded off, HUGE VICEGRIPS AND DROP YOUR WHEATIES BOX AND HIT IT UP lol.....

devilzdriver

iTrader: (4)

also tapping on top of the bolt helps too break loose crap and spray again!

reido

iTrader: (1)

Heat but you need a lot of it.
Or mig a large nut on it

Krang

iTrader: (14)

I don't think I can hit it with too much heat, they are the bolts right underneath the gas tank. I don't want to diaf.

corytomo

iTrader: (3)

bolt extractor from sears, lots of pb blaster, impact gun

YuudaiSTI

iTrader: (11)

Sawzall. Thats how I had to remove the front bolt from my rear trailing arms. I told you these were a *****! Everything back there is a PITA.

Deraj_53

iTrader: (5)

Also I prefer the 6 point wrenches over the 12 point ones on really stuck bolts, less chance of rounding. I also like to use impact sockets it's a harder steel and flexes less than the shiny chromium ones.

YuudaiSTI

iTrader: (11)

Also just about impossible to get an impact in where the front trailing arm bolts are. Unless you drop the fuel tank.