I am looking for opinions on this task. My clutch is making a funny noise and I need to get in there to inspect. Less than a year old oem in there now. All I wanna do is inspect for now. Should I pull motor or tranny? I have done tranny before but I am not down for loosing tranny fluid. I would prefer coolant. Which y'all think is easier?

 

Delete mods. I am not worried about this now ill yaw tranny route but I gotta worry about my headers especially since I have away my OEM just earlier this week

 

It would probably be helpful to post a video with sound of the noises your clutch is making. It is almost impossible to describe or diagnose a noise related problem unless it is something extremely common.

Also spell check/grammar.

 

Diagnose wasn't the point of thread or I would of.

 

+1 tru. OP wants to know the best route to open bell housing and what to look for/clean up. am i correct? if so, I replaced my clutch tranny side (removed tranny). youll be fine on keeping oil in the tranny if youre not me and forget to tie down the tranny once its on the tranny jack. b**** fell right off the back and dumped and my fluids on the ground and into my shirt (as i was under trying to get that sucker back on the jack. lol) keep her lever and mover her slow, you"ll have no problem. as what to look for when tranny and engine are disconnected:

-metal shavings that may be present
-inspect clutch disc and pressure plate (check disk for rivets and press plate for gouging from said rivets)
-slide your finger into pilot bearing and give it a giggle. itll be pretty evident is the bearing is bad (loose, choppy when spun, sqeaky)
-inspect tranny input shaft for anny chopped signs. A obliverated throwout bearing will cause this. in turn causing the clutch pedal to sometimes "stick to the ground" (chopped input shaft prevents throwout bearing from sliding back smoothly and often get caught on jagged edges caused by prior throw out bearing obliveration. LOL. SO...if this happens to you, sand down the end of the input shaft. just incase others come across a "sticky" clutch pedal.
-Inspect, clean, light lube pressure fingers (where TO bearing meets clutch fingers when clutch pedal is pressed)
-REMOVE AND CLEAN throwout bearing and release lever, being careful not to loose the two springs on the side of the release lever (these springs hold TO bearing on lever) AND the "A-shapped" spring on the backside of the lever (this spring secures lever to bell housing)
-----Once the lever and bearing are removed,THOROUGHLY clean, scrub, RELUBE the lever both front and backside. remove and clean the 3 springs (2 side one and 1 backside one). Also THOROUGHLY clean relube pivot ball (sits behind release lever when installed on car)
Now relube spring contact areas and pivot cup on backside of lever and reinstall.
*****I have highlighted key areas that are rather important. I've gone into my clutch twice now because ive missed a thing or two that cause wretched noises after a brand new clutch. now im just trying to save u time.


Also in terms of noises in my past experience:
Sqeak: -either of bearings (throwout or pilot)
-contact points on throwout lever were not cleaned and relubed. (this cause me much heartache and 2 set of brand new bearing till i realized the noise was actually coming from the pivot ball behind release lever.

CHatter: -REPLACE!!!! essentially, your rivets are riding on your pressure plate instead of friction material that used to be there 5000+ miles ago. LOL
- clutch plates not aligned correctly.




I hope all this helps. If you have anymore questions, feel free to reply. like i said, ive done all my mods myself and learn many shortcuts/pointers/tricks on the way that i hope will save other the...ohhh about 6 full days in total to dial in my clutch. now i can replace a clutch in roughly 5 hours tops via "driveway method"

Happy Holidays

 

ive only done it one route...pulling the motor...pros and cons of both ways...just gotta pick your poison

 

Also, OP, keep in mind, I have and RS (non turbo....for now...teeeehee). If you have a turbo, your clutch setup is slightly different (you have a PULL TYPE clutch and i have a PUSH TYPE clutch. the setup will be different, but the parts will all still be in there and same inspections apply

 

there was a point to this thread? must have missed it in all the

 

Try again, look closer. Try squinting your eyes this time. Dont worry everybody gets one.

 

oh i see it now. for those who may have also missed it at first i'll spell it out. if you can't figure out how to work google to find the answer for your question, then perhaps you shouldn't be working on your own car. so to answer your question you should pull your car into a mechanic. oh and for the next one of these threads you post(and i'm sure you will), you may want to include some helpful info such as whether you have access to a lift or proper tools. it kinda makes a difference in which way you go spidey.

 

Lolz. Maybe all those detail were removed when I posted for mods to delete. My thread said OPINIONS googling, even though I used Bing(must be the problem), same day I posted for the thread to be removed. The details were originally in that post but edited to say something else. Yawn. You got a problem with me too ****ing bad. I did nothing. If you can't stand noobs on the threads or simple posts on OPINIONS then make your own website www.***bagsoficlub.com

 

you asked for my opinion....u mad bro? y so serious? maybe i should make a site, but then who would you ask your questions to? naw i'll just keep poking the bear until it gets the point. *poke*

 

gwarrrrrrlll well at least we kept the post numbers the same on both forums. whateva

 

Both forums? You posted this on NASIOC too? Or maybe you shoud go on there and ask questions as well, since IClub doesn't have what you're looking for.

 

he means threads not forums....i speak english and noob. i'm bilingual yo