Oil Change with Ramps
11-10-2010, 04:46 PM
#17
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I use ramps almost exclusively...I have 2 sets...a Rhino set and a newly purchased metal set that has a slide out portion that lengthens the ramp so that lowered cars can go up without scraping the ramps...
It's simple to use and doesn't smash up the frame where the jacks normally rest. I feel they are safer than jackstands as well...
I have used ramps up front and jacked up the rear to try and level out the car while changing the oil...the results were almost identical so I now only use the ramps.
Ramps are also advantageous when you need to keep a load on the wheels to accomplish tasks...like putting a swaybar on etc...
It's simple to use and doesn't smash up the frame where the jacks normally rest. I feel they are safer than jackstands as well...
I have used ramps up front and jacked up the rear to try and level out the car while changing the oil...the results were almost identical so I now only use the ramps.
Ramps are also advantageous when you need to keep a load on the wheels to accomplish tasks...like putting a swaybar on etc...
11-10-2010, 04:49 PM
#18
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Ryan...you need to either get a set of ramps like I just bought that has a slide out portion that makes the ramp twice as long...or construct a similar device to replicate the extra length of the ramp .... before I purchased the ramp I have now...I was going to go and buy some 2x10's and construct a wedge like device that allowed the use of the ramps with the lowered cars....
11-10-2010, 06:11 PM
#19
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I thought about using ramps but Im too paranoid that the car will fall off when Im driving up. Plus I dont have anyone else that could spot me while driving up. I just did my oil chang on my car last week and heres what I did;
I used the factory spare tire jack to get the passenger front side up high enough for me to work under the car. I didnt use my floor jack because I didnt want to bend the pich weld.
I put a jackstand next to the jack for safety.
This should give you enough clearance to get under the car to work.
I used the factory spare tire jack to get the passenger front side up high enough for me to work under the car. I didnt use my floor jack because I didnt want to bend the pich weld.
I put a jackstand next to the jack for safety.
This should give you enough clearance to get under the car to work.
11-11-2010, 01:36 AM
#20
11-11-2010, 09:47 AM
#22
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Actually, I lucked out on this one...
My Fancy Sears low-profile aluminum jack died (went through 2 now) so I went to meet up with a guy on craigslist to buy this strong jack...he was also selling the ramps so I picked them up...
These things are really heavy...like 40lbs each or so...not as easy to throw around like my rhino's...but they work awesome...my car is lowered on Prodrive springs so they aren't slammed, but I still wouldn't be able to use the Rhino's except for the rears.
I'll take some pictures tonight to show you what they look like and a brand...
My Fancy Sears low-profile aluminum jack died (went through 2 now) so I went to meet up with a guy on craigslist to buy this strong jack...he was also selling the ramps so I picked them up...
These things are really heavy...like 40lbs each or so...not as easy to throw around like my rhino's...but they work awesome...my car is lowered on Prodrive springs so they aren't slammed, but I still wouldn't be able to use the Rhino's except for the rears.
I'll take some pictures tonight to show you what they look like and a brand...
11-11-2010, 02:12 PM
#23
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I used Race Ramp, they are very strong and light.
It doesn't touch the front bumper if you get the lower version and it fit great even on 275!
But I always use jack for safety if working a lot on car.
It doesn't touch the front bumper if you get the lower version and it fit great even on 275!
But I always use jack for safety if working a lot on car.
11-14-2010, 03:51 PM
#24
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Oil change went fine today with the exception of the oil filter. Any tips for taking the sucker off? Had to resort to using the screwdriver method. The strange thing is that I installed the last oil filter by hand so I thought it would be easier. Oil Filter cap was unsuccessful as well. I'm not sure if an oil filter wrench/plier would be better next time.
Last edited by steak; 11-14-2010 at 03:55 PM.
11-14-2010, 04:03 PM
#25
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And when I hand tighten the filter I go pretty much till I can't go anymore, I'm not that strong so I don't believe I'm over tightening it. But I'm afraid if I don't go as tight it might leak or come loose after a while.
11-14-2010, 08:02 PM
#26
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1/4 - 1/2 turn after filter gasket makes contact with surface should be good enough. Anything more and you end up doing the exact same thing next time. I also put a little oil with my finger on the gasket just before putting it on.
11-14-2010, 11:40 PM
#28
i use a band type oil filer wrench, gets it off 100% of the time for me. I've always tightened the filter 1 turn after the gasket touches.
Oh and I just used my last Tokyo Roki filter today...
Oh and I just used my last Tokyo Roki filter today...
11-15-2010, 05:11 PM
#29
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Whats the shelf life for an open bottle of motor oil. I have the .8 left from one bottle tightly closed sitting in the garage. I dont plan on changing oil for another 4 months (i know every 3 months is recommended but thats pricey for me so i figure ill be fine extending the oil change intervals by a month)