Nos
#1
Nos
anyone running NOS? im thinking about it but im scared to blow my motor and fry my turbo... anyone got advice? the system is 100 shot dry.. i kinda wanna degrade to 50 shot and see what happens.. its probably going in on friday so let me know if theres things i need to be aware of first... thanks guys!
#4
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I'm no longer on the island, but I'd love to help if I could.
After a good bit of research, I'm a firm believer in N20. I believe that a very small shot, say 35...maybe up to 50, is a great addition to your car. Further, I don't think that you have anything to worry about, at least no more so than with anything else that might add 50 hp to your car. On the contrary, you would actually be PROTECTING your engine with a 35-50 shot.
Lemme explain. Assuming that you were smart and thorough on your install, and ensured that you had the appropriate hardware to keep you safe (ie. something to allow you to pull timing and/or richen your mixture) you'd actually be helping your intercooler in doing it's job. N20 has a great characteristic in latent heat of evaporation, much like methanol or ethanol. It has the same characteristic, in essence, of a turbo or sc, in that it adds more oxygen atoms to your mixture.
I'm absolutely talking out of my butt here because I don't have the book in front of me, but the reaction is either where one or both oxygen atoms in n20 grab onto an oxygen atom that was just sucked in through the intake. Nah, that ain't right. That'd create ozone or tritium or something. Maybe it's that one of the oxygen atoms grabs onto a hydrogen atom that has just been sucked in through the intake and forms water, which cools the charge. I don't know if that's right, neither. I do know that the overall effect is that the reaction does create more oxygen within your mixture. I don't really know what effect that there is that would cool your charge, but I know that there is one.
Also, make sure and consider some form of EM that allows you to shut off your N20 when boost gets to a certain point. I think that either Zex or Venom...I believe Zex, and now maybe even NOS, allow you to do that with an additional control module.
Lastly, as far as being smart is concerned. Those pieces of hardware that seem like they only there to be cool are actually mandatory, imo. Bottle warmer ensures that you get a perfect flow of volume. N20 as a gas isn't flamable, but if you're not always aware of what temp your bottle is at and try to 'juice' when the bottle is too warm or something, you may just get some n20 liquid which I believe may be flammable. It would definitely not be the correct mixture in your combustion chamber. With that, the purge is also mandatory. Bottom line, your engine isn't happy when it receives a mixture that it wasn't anticipating.
Also, consider what you're trying to accomplish. I do see adding N20 as a safe method, so long as you're conscientious about how you install it. However, if you have a 15 second car right now, you're only adding a few more tenths. Why? Personally I see nitrous oxide as a cherry. When you've taken your engine as far as it will go as 'all engine' or with another power adder, you then throw on the n20.
Lastly, you probably are very aware of how tempting it always is to 'turn up the shot'. Don't. And DON'T go with a dry shot. Dry means it's squirted in at the intake manifold. Wet is squirted in along with the gasoline, ie, much easier to control.
FWIW, some of the things I've stated may be wrong or taken out of context. To ensure you're getting the correct info, read here. RCSA.
After a good bit of research, I'm a firm believer in N20. I believe that a very small shot, say 35...maybe up to 50, is a great addition to your car. Further, I don't think that you have anything to worry about, at least no more so than with anything else that might add 50 hp to your car. On the contrary, you would actually be PROTECTING your engine with a 35-50 shot.
Lemme explain. Assuming that you were smart and thorough on your install, and ensured that you had the appropriate hardware to keep you safe (ie. something to allow you to pull timing and/or richen your mixture) you'd actually be helping your intercooler in doing it's job. N20 has a great characteristic in latent heat of evaporation, much like methanol or ethanol. It has the same characteristic, in essence, of a turbo or sc, in that it adds more oxygen atoms to your mixture.
I'm absolutely talking out of my butt here because I don't have the book in front of me, but the reaction is either where one or both oxygen atoms in n20 grab onto an oxygen atom that was just sucked in through the intake. Nah, that ain't right. That'd create ozone or tritium or something. Maybe it's that one of the oxygen atoms grabs onto a hydrogen atom that has just been sucked in through the intake and forms water, which cools the charge. I don't know if that's right, neither. I do know that the overall effect is that the reaction does create more oxygen within your mixture. I don't really know what effect that there is that would cool your charge, but I know that there is one.
Also, make sure and consider some form of EM that allows you to shut off your N20 when boost gets to a certain point. I think that either Zex or Venom...I believe Zex, and now maybe even NOS, allow you to do that with an additional control module.
Lastly, as far as being smart is concerned. Those pieces of hardware that seem like they only there to be cool are actually mandatory, imo. Bottle warmer ensures that you get a perfect flow of volume. N20 as a gas isn't flamable, but if you're not always aware of what temp your bottle is at and try to 'juice' when the bottle is too warm or something, you may just get some n20 liquid which I believe may be flammable. It would definitely not be the correct mixture in your combustion chamber. With that, the purge is also mandatory. Bottom line, your engine isn't happy when it receives a mixture that it wasn't anticipating.
Also, consider what you're trying to accomplish. I do see adding N20 as a safe method, so long as you're conscientious about how you install it. However, if you have a 15 second car right now, you're only adding a few more tenths. Why? Personally I see nitrous oxide as a cherry. When you've taken your engine as far as it will go as 'all engine' or with another power adder, you then throw on the n20.
Lastly, you probably are very aware of how tempting it always is to 'turn up the shot'. Don't. And DON'T go with a dry shot. Dry means it's squirted in at the intake manifold. Wet is squirted in along with the gasoline, ie, much easier to control.
Originally Posted by AutoSpeed Magazine
In a typical wet manifold system the nitrous kit comes with a dedicated fuel enrichment solenoid. This photo shows a nitrous solenoid alongside a fuel enrichment solenoid. As seen, the fuel enrichment solenoid looks similar to the nitrous solenoid except it is usually rated at lower pressure. This solenoid opens and closes the flow of fuel into the engine. Again, the point of enrichment fuel injection and the type of fuel nozzle can vary.
#5
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http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0301tur_ej20/
Yea, run NOS, then your car can hit 10's.....if you have the money to buy another motor that is.....but hey, u'd run 10's!!!
Yea, run NOS, then your car can hit 10's.....if you have the money to buy another motor that is.....but hey, u'd run 10's!!!
#7
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There is a guy that I met at the track 3 weeks ago who drove an GC8 RS with suspension upgrades, but nothing more in the engine, and he was getting low 14's I think. He was running a small NOS shot like Pat was talking about. Good luck, and tell me how it goes, since I have to beat Carlos .
#8
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i've always thought of running nitrous.....but then i thought....nitrous is for really fast cars that just want to go even faster or slow cars that want a quick boost....i dunno what i'm talking about....its 3 am....i cant see what i'm writing.....
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#10
if nitrous is used correct its safe as hell stay away from dry systems.....
think of nitrous like sex it hurts when its dry
someday when my car is up and running im gonna get a kt....right now the only kit i would buy is the venom vcn 2000 its like 1300 but its computerized read on
http://www.venom-performance.com/nf/...2000.htm#v2000
think of nitrous like sex it hurts when its dry
someday when my car is up and running im gonna get a kt....right now the only kit i would buy is the venom vcn 2000 its like 1300 but its computerized read on
http://www.venom-performance.com/nf/...2000.htm#v2000
Last edited by ds baruuuuu; 10-12-2004 at 12:21 PM.
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