The reason I ask is this:

I'm sure you know this already, but you may have lost sight of this in your frustration so I just want to remind you

Timing, mixtures and temperature are more important than boost. You goals should be to acheive the best timing and mixtures possible while keeping residual cylinder temps down and intake charge down. Tune your boost to those, don't tune to your boost.
Know what I'm trying to say?
Remember Jayson was running 21psi and it was slower than 19psi (when Shiv came out)
Here's a few more things to keep in mind:
Being a little rich is way better than being a little lean. Lean burns hotter, increases residual plug and head temperature which leads to more detonation which leads to pulled timing and robs crazy power.

Boost is great, right?

Tuning isn't.
Tuning is a royal *****, I know. It's a balancing act, adjust one thing and the others are affected. Tuning for one small RPM range would be easier. So maybe you could tune for one range at a time.
Example,
pick 2500-3500 and make it run perfect there first.
Set some points, say ... I don't know... 14.0:1 for A/F (a little rich) @WOT and try to maintain at least 15 BTDC(or whatever target you set) at 12psi without any events. If you're successful, increase timing first. See how much more timing you can get before detonating. If you're hitting say 30 BTDC then bump up the boost and put timing back to whatever gave you the most power(or whatever your previous goal was) If you had an EGT gauge you could really tell what A/F ratio is best for you too.

Anyway, I'm just trying to help. Maybe I'll spark something in you that'll give you a tuning epifony or something like that. If you want some help tuning while driving or watching parameters and logging info I'll gladly ride along with you today.

Remember what Shiv said, If you're running higher boost without noticeable improvements in performance you need to re-evaluate.

 

Richard you seriously need at least an EGT gauge to tune with. You can't go by the UTEC alone and look for knock. From there a W/B would also help in other areas. But an EGT is a must.


Did you expect to make instant power with the addition of the UTEC? Tuning has much suck and I dont enjoy it all. I have knock events like you wouldnt believe... But it's fun at times especially when you can at least your car to idle like stock :P

 

Dom,

Thanks for the tips! I'm running the VF30. Great thoughts, but 14:1 is WAY lean! WRX's like to be at <11.0:1 at WOT for max. power and safety. Finicky little all-aluminum boxer motors! I hear you on boost vs. power, btw. I found that out pretty quickly on my Supercharged Mustang setup. That vehicle didn't have an intercooler so any det/ping was BAD.

Tim,

Thanks for the positive review of the Ecutek. It's a thought that has passed my mind, let me tell you!

Mitch,

I know about having the right tools. I've done many piggybacks that came pre-loaded with base maps that I've been able to tweak well enough for power before making dyno appointments with WB02 access and I've always been pretty close. I've tuned Accel DFI's, Speedbrains, AFC's, MSD programmable timing computers on blown/turbo carbureted vehicles and tinkered with an AEM on a Supra and I've always been able to produce predictable (if not precise) results until access to a WB02 was available.

It's not the fact that I can't get it RIGHT ON that's driving me nuts - it's the fact that the car is not responding EITHER WAY (for better or for worse) to my commands/inputs/map changes.

I never expected to set the world on fire with the UTEC, but this thing has just been a complete mess. I blame it on the stock ECU (maybe *MY* stock ECU) and not the UTEC, mind you. The piggyback only modified signals - the stock ECU is what's bucking me. And I'm going to make it STOP.
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11:1 ?!?!?!? That's crazy rich!
Wierd Japanese Cars

From the graphs I've seen 12.5 would be the richest you'd want to go.... hmmm

 

A small displacement, high boost turbo car running 91-93 octane needs to run a lot richer under boost than what is commonly "accepted". In such applications, it's not usual to run a/f ratios so rich that they fall right off the screen. While these AFRs don't yield maximum engine output alone, they do provide the necessary knock surpression required to run an appropriately advanced spark-- both of which yields maximum output with good margin of safety. Frankly, I have yet to see a turbo car running pump gas making peak power with the 12-13:1 AFRs touted by some tuners.

Just my 2c,
shiv
________
FORD ZEPHYR ENGINE HISTORY

 

And what a valuable 2 cents that is! Thanks Shiv.
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There you have it!

Thanks Shiv

 

Richard when Ritchie returns my stock ECU, your more then welcome to use it to see if there is a difference in the two.

 

Mitch, you're a prince. Hapa computer geeks unite!

Just as a point of interest - threw my stock pulley in my car today (took out the lightened/stock diameter TB Racing pulley) and the car feels MUCH smoother at the top of the rev range.

Strange this was, I never detected any knock with the UTEC - but the car doesn't "nose over" like it did after 6.5k like it used to. This'll be interesting!
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you need to get Mike to swap ecu's with you while he still can!!

 

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