I hate HKS BOV period! (Q for hawaii guys inside)
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From: buying a house in hawaii is harder then it looks
Car Info: 2001 Impreza 2.5RS-T 2011 Forester Prem. SUBYS FTW
Well i officailly hate HKS period!! like most of you know i had problems with my hks bos ssq and the one i'm running now was off in Hg causing my vac to flutter. http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76167
Well today that same junk *** of a bov got stuck OPEN!!! well i'm assuming it is stuck open because i can't go over 10 in Hg and my car runs like a slower then stock 1.8L
and i have a 2.5 rs-t 
when i rev. my car from the throttle cable it sucks IN AIR threw the stupid HKS BOV SSQ! (also talked to jon and AMS to confirm my theory) which we all said the same thing
also quick Q is it safe for me to drive home in traffic from mapunapuna to mililani with it like this? i have a spare hks replica at home i can use till i get my TIAL BOV next week(just ordered it)
Well today that same junk *** of a bov got stuck OPEN!!! well i'm assuming it is stuck open because i can't go over 10 in Hg and my car runs like a slower then stock 1.8L
and i have a 2.5 rs-t 
when i rev. my car from the throttle cable it sucks IN AIR threw the stupid HKS BOV SSQ! (also talked to jon and AMS to confirm my theory) which we all said the same thing
also quick Q is it safe for me to drive home in traffic from mapunapuna to mililani with it like this? i have a spare hks replica at home i can use till i get my TIAL BOV next week(just ordered it)
You should be running rich in vacuum till you hit boost IF it can hit boost, and then it should shift to lean--that's if you're MAF based. I'm not familiar with your car and metering system, though.
If you're still MAF based, it's safer to have it forced shut than to stay open and vented, as you'd just kill the turbo with shifts but then and at least your short block would be okay.
What happens if you disconnect the vacuum line altogether and plug that line with a bolt? Does the bov shut? If you can find a way to keep it from leaking, you should be okay to get home. Just don't mess with your throttle fluctuations too much and try to stay off boost as much as possible. You'll get surge but at low boost it wont hurt nothing.
I have an extra weld on flange for the stock BPV that connects with a hose and clamp if you need it for the future when you actually cut that other flange off.
If you're still MAF based, it's safer to have it forced shut than to stay open and vented, as you'd just kill the turbo with shifts but then and at least your short block would be okay.
What happens if you disconnect the vacuum line altogether and plug that line with a bolt? Does the bov shut? If you can find a way to keep it from leaking, you should be okay to get home. Just don't mess with your throttle fluctuations too much and try to stay off boost as much as possible. You'll get surge but at low boost it wont hurt nothing.
I have an extra weld on flange for the stock BPV that connects with a hose and clamp if you need it for the future when you actually cut that other flange off.
Last edited by reid-o; Apr 23, 2008 at 02:34 PM.
**** was it a replica from ebay special or was it the real deal SSQL? Ive been hearing bad things about the replicas on ebay with leaking and valves getting stuck open... If you run it open basically any boost will go to atmosphere. Im not too sure if you want to run it like that for long since it will be running lean in limp mode... Well just some FYI
Thread Starter
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From: buying a house in hawaii is harder then it looks
Car Info: 2001 Impreza 2.5RS-T 2011 Forester Prem. SUBYS FTW
You should be running rich in vacuum till you hit boost IF it can hit boost, and then it should shift to lean--that's if you're MAF based. I'm not familiar with your car and metering system, though.
If you're still MAF based, it's safer to have it forced shut than to stay open and vented, as you'd just kill the turbo with shifts but then and at least your short block would be okay.
What happens if you disconnect the vacuum line altogether and plug that line with a bolt? Does the bov shut? If you can find a way to keep it from leaking, you should be okay to get home. Just don't mess with your throttle fluctuations too much and try to stay off boost as much as possible. You'll get surge but at low boost it wont hurt nothing.
I have an extra weld on flange for the stock BPV that connects with a hose and clamp if you need it for the future when you actually cut that other flange off.
If you're still MAF based, it's safer to have it forced shut than to stay open and vented, as you'd just kill the turbo with shifts but then and at least your short block would be okay.
What happens if you disconnect the vacuum line altogether and plug that line with a bolt? Does the bov shut? If you can find a way to keep it from leaking, you should be okay to get home. Just don't mess with your throttle fluctuations too much and try to stay off boost as much as possible. You'll get surge but at low boost it wont hurt nothing.
I have an extra weld on flange for the stock BPV that connects with a hose and clamp if you need it for the future when you actually cut that other flange off.
)also the car runs as if no power like dave said BIG boost leak i just gotta make sure i can make it home
I just ordered my TIAL BOV so i should be good on the BOV side and my car cannot run a stock BPV since my car cannot recerculate(sp?) unless i make a whole new intake system(not gonna happen
thanks for looking out tho
)
Last edited by shaggadelic; Apr 23, 2008 at 03:54 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,140
From: buying a house in hawaii is harder then it looks
Car Info: 2001 Impreza 2.5RS-T 2011 Forester Prem. SUBYS FTW
**** was it a replica from ebay special or was it the real deal SSQL? Ive been hearing bad things about the replicas on ebay with leaking and valves getting stuck open... If you run it open basically any boost will go to atmosphere. Im not too sure if you want to run it like that for long since it will be running lean in limp mode... Well just some FYI
but no this was the real deal hks ssqv the one i have at home is a replica that i will be using till i get my TIAL in the mail next week
i'm map base so all my a/f are fine (thank you wideband
)
also the car runs as if no power like dave said BIG boost leak i just gotta make sure i can make it home
I just ordered my TIAL BOV so i should be good on the BOV side and my car cannot run a stock BPV since my car cannot recerculate(sp?) unless i make a whole new intake system(not gonna happen
thanks for looking out tho
)
)also the car runs as if no power like dave said BIG boost leak i just gotta make sure i can make it home
I just ordered my TIAL BOV so i should be good on the BOV side and my car cannot run a stock BPV since my car cannot recerculate(sp?) unless i make a whole new intake system(not gonna happen
thanks for looking out tho
)Yeah sorry I wasn't sure what you were running.
I'm not sure what's happened to the quality of those valves, but I've also had 4 or so of the genuine ones on various cars. When they do work, they're pretty cool sounding and hold shut well under vacuum and boost. They also never "kind of" work like other valves that leak. They just suddenly ****ing break down--kind of like my old DSM
I also don't care what HKS says on their website and what other people have heard. That stupid screw on the back does nothing. haha
Thread Starter
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From: buying a house in hawaii is harder then it looks
Car Info: 2001 Impreza 2.5RS-T 2011 Forester Prem. SUBYS FTW
^^^it was turbo'd when i got it but i fixed LOTS and i mean lots lots lots lots of problem the car had and now it is a completely NEW car!!(love my RA gears)
just that stupid HKS BOV!! TIAL here i come
just that stupid HKS BOV!! TIAL here i come
hks claims its not an ajustment scerw...they removed it in the later models.. upon closer inspection, i noticed that the screw controls how much travel the piston (or whatever HKS calls it) has. tighten it too much and the piston will be stuck closed. it does not ajust spring tension like people think... so yea, the screw does nothing at all!!
on my stock intercooler the hks chirped at low rpms and sounded like a bird exploding at full boost redline.. with my fmic it chrips at low boost/throttle and sounds like option video supra


