Part of this origin for wanting to build is just due to the 'virus'. What sucks about this particular virus is that it just needs 'shopping/research' to stay alive.

Part of it are actual goals. And along with that, I know I should be more aware of the saying, 'be careful for what you wish for' as my goals may not be what I want, and further may turn out to be exactly what I don't want. I've never been accused of having vision nor be farsighted.

To preface my wishlist, though, I am aware that the WRX might not be the platform I am looking for. I am roughly thinking about in the future, graduating the car to a full-on race car, although still being able to drive it to the track. (this is faaaar in the future.) I've still got that Triumph TR-4 at home and am salivating at being able to sink some time & money into it, as well.

I think that if I could have been competitive as one of the fastest imports, that would've been cool. But I know that by putting the car on the cutting edge, or near to it, I am asking for a whole lot more 'weaknesses' in the car. That's why I'm interested in a sturdier bottom end. I would like to have peace of mind that I can take the car down the strip without knowing something could break at any moment. So goes drag racing though. You've gotta pay to play.

Also, there was an old, white Porsche 911 (I think) that seemed to dust off everyone (I know it's just a trackday, not supposed to be competitive) in his heat at the last trackday. I'd like to have the torque, stiffness, handling, and top-end power to be a force to be reckoned with on the road course. Of course, I should be fixing the driver first. I'm just talking about what's on the wishlist.

I guess that's about it for now.

 

Well Pat, if you have goals and dreams of building the car that will satisfiy your needs then go for it if you are in no big hurry do like me and others do just buy a part here and there and when you have everything put it together and then it will be done and you will know that you got the best parts because you were in no rush. The 510 I was telling you about, he has been doing body work on it for two years... only because everything else is already done..This is all just my $.02

 

You can have the strongest sleeves installed, but it won't save the engine if you spin or seize a bearing. The sleeves alone will not make the block bullet-proof.

I'd personally go with the 2.2 over bore 2.4. I think Axis uses a 2.5 crank, but I'd like to know if it's from a 2.5 RS. I'd also like to know if the 2.5 RS crank and the USDM STi crank is the same.

 

Unless someone comes up with hard evidence as to why the 2.2 closed deck has an insufficient cooling system, this block will be my next project.

 

and again, .... before you spend more money on blowing up your motor, ... buy a J&S UltraSafeguard!

 

Yo Sean,

What is J&S Ultrasafeguard? Also, any update on the heads? I only need the case and valvetrain.

Thanks

 

Go Pat, go!

 

has an insufficient cooling system, it's just that a closed deck will run a bit hotter due to the greater amount of metal next to the cylinder that retains heat. Even with their 2.4 stroker, Axis states "The sleeves are flanged at the top to provide lateral strength (no need to fully close the deck) as well as a bigger sealing surface for the head gasket." I would talk to Ron at Axis. I am debating whether to go with him or Magnus Motorsports. I don't think you could go wrong with either.

San

 

San,

Did you see my post about Magnus or have you known about them all along?

Chris,

What bearing? I know I've heard about it before...I think that's what Dylan tore up on his L. Crank bearing or cam bearing?

 

Axis and Magnus for some time. I'm still not done with suspension and brake mods. My stock turbo motor seems to be more than adequate to handle those with more displacement/modifications. I'd like to build a motor in the future.

San

 

waiting on a reply from the guys in Japan.

http://www.jandssafeguard.com
... for the 1 BiLlIoNth time hehe j/p

 

... oh, and if things go good, Speed Gear will be building an EJ motor too.

 

The UTEC does that. Not per cylinder, but for all 4. It can disregard knock, what 'threshold' you want, how much duration...

You get the picture.

 

Thanks for info San, but I'd like to know how much hotter will cylinder walls be on the closed 2.2 compared to other suby block? Also, how much heat does it take to fatigue a stock 2.2 block?

On Ron's 2.4, he also coats his bearings and also, his longblock is a well balanced build.

If money was no issue, I'd defiantely go with Ron's 2.4, but unfortunately, I am a poor bastard. So, I'm going cheap with a used 2.2 and build it from the ground up.

Also, Ron is the man! He hooked me up with both my Vishnu GT30 and SR-50, and also other misc. parts. He and a few of his shop employees will be in Hawaii sometime in the summer. Maybe we should plan now and set him and buddies up.

 

Main/ crank bearings.

I haven't heard of any bearings wearing out on the cams, but I wonder what they would look like on a 9k rpm car?