Giant wtf today

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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 11:18 AM
  #16  
Volkey's Avatar
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Oh ****.. thats all bad.

When was the last time you changed your oil?
Are you using the OEM oil drain plug?
And have you inspected the drain plug to see how bad it really is stripped?


Park your car untill you looked at these things.
Old Nov 2, 2012 | 11:39 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Snoopy408
do you use one?
seems like a useful product but i'm just scared of that spring in the lever failing.
I use one. Its awesome. They have little clamp retainer things that will hold the release lever in place.
Old Nov 2, 2012 | 12:29 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by stupidchicken03

I use one. Its awesome. They have little clamp retainer things that will hold the release lever in place.
How secure is the retainer clip?

Ive been skeptical of that because if some debris were big enough to latch on and open the valve, you'd be screwed.
Old Nov 2, 2012 | 01:00 PM
  #19  
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Would a 5w50 run ok instead of a 5w30? I heard 30 tends to strip in turboed cars and 40 is what everyone is telling me to use, but I'm not sure if 50 is too thick. I ran VR1 5w50 in the miata because it was built to race so I ran race oil. VR1 is made for turboed engines but I'm not sure one the weight.
Old Nov 2, 2012 | 01:03 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by theoutbackdream
How secure is the retainer clip?

Ive been skeptical of that because if some debris were big enough to latch on and open the valve, you'd be screwed.
There's no way that's going to happen. The lever locks into a detent notch and is held into the notch with a spring. You have to push the little lever out of the notch, against spring pressure, then rotate it 90 degrees.

I guess it's possible to hit something and maybe rip the whole thing out, but super unlikely. And if you manage to hit something that big there's no way you're going to just keep on driving. There's going to be a BUNCH of damage to things other than just a drain plug.
Old Nov 2, 2012 | 01:08 PM
  #21  
iLLDYNSTI's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Volkey
Oh ****.. thats all bad.

When was the last time you changed your oil?
Are you using the OEM oil drain plug?
And have you inspected the drain plug to see how bad it really is stripped?


Park your car untill you looked at these things.
It was changed about a week before I bought it. That was about five months ago. But the car sat for about three of those while I was underway.
Yes its the OEM plug.
I havent looked at the plug myself yet. I'm going to tomorrow.
Old Nov 2, 2012 | 07:51 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by theoutbackdream
How secure is the retainer clip?

Ive been skeptical of that because if some debris were big enough to latch on and open the valve, you'd be screwed.
Originally Posted by Bushflyr
There's no way that's going to happen. The lever locks into a detent notch and is held into the notch with a spring. You have to push the little lever out of the notch, against spring pressure, then rotate it 90 degrees.

I guess it's possible to hit something and maybe rip the whole thing out, but super unlikely. And if you manage to hit something that big there's no way you're going to just keep on driving. There's going to be a BUNCH of damage to things other than just a drain plug.
^yup.

If you hit something big enough to knock that off/damage it, you've got bigger problems to worry about
Old Nov 2, 2012 | 08:32 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by iLLDYNSTI
Would a 5w50 run ok instead of a 5w30? I heard 30 tends to strip in turboed cars and 40 is what everyone is telling me to use, but I'm not sure if 50 is too thick. I ran VR1 5w50 in the miata because it was built to race so I ran race oil. VR1 is made for turboed engines but I'm not sure one the weight.
You chose oil weight by oil pressure so if you don't have a gauge to know what pressure you have now its a guess.
When the engine is hot you want about 10-12 psi per 1k rpm so around 80-90 at redline. Higher is not good and lower is not good. If its lower you can run higher weight for more pressure.
Old Nov 2, 2012 | 09:18 PM
  #24  
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Couldn't find the 5w50 which O'Reilly's said they had, which they can't even order apparently. So I went to Wal-Mart for the shell rotella t6 and they didn't have that. So I just bought royal purple 5w40 and said **** it.
Old Nov 2, 2012 | 10:58 PM
  #25  
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+ 1 on the fumoto valve. i've had one on my wrx for 100,000 miles without a problem.
loved it enough to get a 2nd one for my other car
Old Nov 3, 2012 | 03:39 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by theoutbackdream
Isn't that just oil weight and the ase certification?

Lol
Negative. The manual says to use oil that meets ASE and another standard as well.
Old Nov 3, 2012 | 02:43 PM
  #27  
iLLDYNSTI's Avatar
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Changed the oil about an hour ago. Everything is in working order but I threw in a bottle of restore just incase. Running much smoother now.
Old Nov 3, 2012 | 03:18 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dozenutts
Hopefully they were being straight up with you. First AND last time I went to Jiffylube, they neglected to tighten down the oil drain plug after an oil change. The plug came out while I was driving, spilling oil all over the road and along the underside of my car. Only good thing was that the oil trail I left made it easy to find the plug about a 1/2 mile back. Lessons learned.
The only good thing was that you found the oil drain plug? If my plug fell out and all my oil drained while I was driving finding the plug would be the least of my concerns.
Old Nov 6, 2012 | 02:46 PM
  #29  
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Another DIYer of Rotella T6 and OEM filter.
Old Nov 6, 2012 | 07:49 PM
  #30  
iLLDYNSTI's Avatar
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DIM with royal purple 5w30(not what I wanted to use) and a Fram 6x filter. I'll have to special order my good oil next time. The VR1 5W50 works like a champ in the miata. Really good in high heat turbo engines.
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