Lately I've received several calls regarding guage installs. What the persons inquiring didn't seem to know, is that the installs are not just electrical. I thought I'd clear this up.
If you have a boost gauge, you have to physically tap for the boost sensor. Some tap off of the BOV line.
If you have an oil pressure gauge, usually you utilize the galley plug in front and slightly to the left of center of the TMIC. There is actuall a Subaru plug reducer you can utilize.
For an oil temperature gauge you can tap the oil pan or the plug underneath the alternator. I will use the plug, as the oil pan temp may be cooler as it sees a decent amount of air.
For an EGT gauge, you want to tap the exhaust manifold approximately 6" from the block. Most use cylinder #4, but some have tapped all cylinders. Temps between cylinders can vary quite a bit. Don't tap the uppipe. The reading is almost useless that far away, and you're getting an average reading.
For a water temperature gauge, Ryan at Vakamon taps the water reservoir on top of the motor. He tapped mine (Thanks Ryan).
Why didn't I mention a voltage meter? I ain't got any interest in one. If you're worried about AC & DC, you swing ways I don't (lighten up, it's a joke). This is the only gauge that is easy to install, but practically worthless in my book.
I don't have taps and dies, so I can't help tap locations for the sensors.
Electrical ain't that hard, but you also have to have a plan as far as physical location. I have three Defi BF gauges(boost, oil temp, water temp), the Defi link unit, two Apexi gauges (EGT, oil pressure), S-AFC and AVC-R, and wideband O2. I utilize a LoTek dual gauge pillar, Gruppe-S carbon center pod, custom dash mounting for the S-AFC & AVC-R, and the wideband sits behind a modified AC vent. Install was not easy. I cut the cupholder out for the Defi link unit. Glove box or center console is probably a better choice for most.
I'll be taking baseline temperatures to compare the before/after results of an aftermarket oil cooler versus a radiator/hoses/thermostat (and the combination thereof). I'll post up the results so people can choose which is more important (or both). I'll probably do the oil cooler first.
Bottom line, realize that when you purchase guages, there is some work involved. I should probably buy some taps and dies, but you don't want to be my "guinea pig", do you?
Bored already?

San

 

always interesting to read your write ups. thumbs up

 

Hey San, I can't wait until you do this. I too am interested in which mod is better for cooling. It is awsome that you will have all of the gauges to see if the stuff actually works. I sent you a pm about my car. Give me a call bro.

 

Shane, you got pm back. Call me, cause I'm busy (and I forget). I want to check out your gears. I'm guessing I have a mod or two you might want to check out. I'm about to drop in an aluminum driveshasft. I think I'll be the first.

442-2595 (H) 448-1436 (W) 255-8596 (C) I can't answer the cell when I'm at work (classified workcenter).

San

 

Very informative write up.

Aluminum driveshaft... don't you need to modify the area surrounding the driveshaft in order to make it fit? Very interesting to see how much modification it will need.

 

according to thedrivshaft.com guy I talked to (Lee), you just need to hammer out some seams in the driveshaft tunnel. I'll be installing at Vakamon, so if anything looks close, I'll have Ryan cut it out if necessary.

San

 

Cool... I know the benefit of having a lightweight one-piece driveshaft... but I have a couple of questions... I assume the floorboards for the manual is different from the auto? I think our rear diff is different too but I don't think the driveshaft will affect the rear diff. I just need to research more... back to clubwrx.net I go...