After doing much searching and talking, I think I should attempt to solve my Hydraulic Lifter tapping noise on my 99 2.2L.

The tapping isn't like the typical tap when first starting or cold. It actually sometimes starts out sounding better then after driving around a bit. It's a constant tap that increases in rate as you accelerate, but if you let the car slow down in gear it will just tap at a set interval.

I've heard mixed things about the tapping causing damage? Does anyone know if this could eventually wear down the cams? Or lead to a much heavier replacement list later on if I let it go unfixed?

I've tried using CD2 with oil changes, and have changed oil regularly (using 10W30 oil, Fram oil filter). I got the car with 87000 miles, and no tapping noise occured then. However, about 12000 miles later I am stuck with the tapping constantly.

Anyway, on to the main point. How hard is a Oil pump and gasket replacement? I think I might want to attempt it myself, but I really have no manual to follow or anything. Money is an issue for me, so I'm hoping to be able to do most the work myself.

My mechanic thinks if oil pump and new gaskets don't fix the problem, then the hydraulic lifters will need to be cleaned out, which means a lot of money. So he suggested just purchasing a new engine.

So that leads me to the next question. Do you think this would be worth the effort to salvage? It runs strong yet, and the tapping is the only problem I can see for now. Should I purchase a new engine or try the oil pump first then decide? If oil pump doesn't work, do you think the engine should be replaced, or repaired?

Any input is helpful, I'm really at a loss.

 

Could be valve lash or the timing belt tensioner going bad. You don't have hydraulic lifters. As for the oil pump, you might as well change the timing belt, cam seals, crank seal, water pump and thermostat while your down there if you're going to change the oil pump. There is no oil pump gasket, it's sealed with RTV. All this could range from 3 to 10 hours of labor and around $250 for all the parts. To change the oil pump o-ring or replace the oil pump it isn't that hard. The hardest part of the whole job is getting the crank bolt loose and tight (130 ft-lb), and holding the camshaft pulley's to get 58 ft-lb on them. Good luck and hope you find your problem if it most definetly isn't piston slap.

Edit: I doubt very seriously that you need a new engine if you've changed the oil faithfully. Also, don't pay him to clean your "hydraulic" lifters because they're not. Look into replacing your timing belt tensioner before purchasing a new engine.

-Charles-

 

I went to him and said that I was told they are solid lifters.

It's a 2.2L, EJ22. He claimed lookin it up they are in fact Hydraulic lifters. Where can I confirm that they are not hydraulic?

If they are just a lash adjustment, I will want to do that soon, cause I don't want to wear too much.

 

svxtrem answered this question better than I can over on NASIOC. Here is what he came up with from the service manuals:

SOHC engines- 1.8, 2.2 ('91 - '98) use a rocker assembly with a tiny, non-adjustable hydraulic lash adjuster between the rocker and the valve.

All 3.3 ('92 - '97) and '96 DOHC engine 2.5 use a direct actuated hydraulic lifter. Cam rides directly on the hydraulically adjusted lifter/lash adjuster, which rides directly on the valve stem.

'97 and '98 2.5 DOHC use a solid, directly actuated lifter, which rides directly on the valve stem. Lash is adjusted by circular shims that are placed between the cam and the lifter.

'99 and later SOHC (all) return to a single overhead cam with rockers, but use a screw mechanism to adjust lash. A rocker roller rides directly on the valve stem.

This is for US spec engines.

If this isn't good enough, call the dealer and confirm.

-Charles-

 

Okay, that is a good explanation. I'll ask him about that.

If it's just a valve lash adjustment, how easy are those?

Also, what's the harm in the tapping noise? What can it do, and how soon can it occur?

 

I've never adjusted valve lash or talked to anyone who has so my knowledge from here on out is limited. I guess it all depends on where the screw mechanism is. Hopefully, I won't have to find out the hard way anytime soon .

-Charles-

 

Well, after calling the subaru dealer I purchased it from, he said "It's hydraulic lifters, that's a fact."

He told me to upgrade my oil to 20 W 50, due to the area I live in he said it was listed in the manual as needing that oil viscosity.

Well, the noise is much quiter and for the most part, not noticable. I think I did some damage having a thinner oil in there without knowing my area called for 20 W 50.

 

Hydraulic lifters in a '99, WTF?

20w50 in Pennsylvania, WTF?

Don't believe everything a Subaru Tech tells you, but if he replaced your lifters with hydraulic lifters and your car is running just peachy, than he is right and I'm wrong. This just goes against everything that I've ever read. And the 20w50 oil just seems to heavy for our little 2.2's. Are you racing your car? If so, that would be the only valid warrant for using 20w50. Just a hint, get that $hit out of there before winter hits. Nonetheless, I'm glad you fixed your car.

-Charles-

 

Ya 20W50 wouldn't go well in winter. I was going to call him and see what he suggests.

I'm kind of tempted to trade in for a newer impreza with less mileage, but I love the bodystyle of GC8 type cars.