My only trepidation is that the thought of programming a standalone scares me. I feel pretty comfortable with the UTEC, so I wonder how much culture shock the link would be.

 

Actually the Utec is more powerful than a Link Plus with the exception of building the base map for idle and whatnot. I imagine you could find a decent base map to work with though, plus other stand-alone tuning guides would be helpful.

 

Man, you need to move to Indiana.

I'll tell you, if I weren't in the Army, I'd have already quit whatever job I had and started tuning UTECs, etc like I've seen a few others in the Impreza world do.

I know that the concepts are the same, no matter what platform one uses; it's just that I've never had to 'chase' an idle before. That and I think I only know how to manage those sensors that directly pertain to airflow, be it temp, mass, or o2 content. When it comes to factoring in coolant temp and additional solenoids or injectors, I'm lost.

 

Have either of you (or anyone for that matter) looked at the Perfect Power piggy backs? They seem to be getting good reviews. If you can get to Rallitek they say they'll install and tune it for a few hundred bucks. Seems like a pretty good deal but I have suspecions that they aren't all that powerful as far as tuning goes. Maybe lacking features or control that a Utec or a Link would have.

cheers

garrett

 

Well, being a Piggy-back type, the OBD cars would learn around the fuel corrections and possibly the timing too. But for what it costs, it's probably not a bad alternative. If it wasn't for the fuel correction issue and the relatively low-resolution maps, I'd consider it for my RS-T build.

 

I want to learn how to break the code. It just irks me how much EM costs, especially with the limited selection.

 

You get whatcha pay for.

 

on an NA build assuming you get some rocking Cams (possibly STi Type R Ver 4. These are suppose to be the most aggressive ever made by subie or super after market), and 13:1 pistons with forged internals, titanium valves. not to mention stand alone ECU w. new fuel delivery system (pump, injectors, parrel delivery vs. series) what are the chances of getting the engine to red line at 10,250 rpm? is this even possible? and what kind of numbers would be expected out of it? would this be doable under $10k and what octane gas would you need? would 110 work?

 

Well I don't think the STI cams would be to good in the 2.5RS would they? They're turbo cams. Seems like you could get some kind of custom grind that would work better in a situation like this. I think you could get just about all that done for AROUND 10k. You'd need to be running 100+ octane for sure. I dunno about reving over 10k RPMs tho. That's quite high. My guess is it's possible but don't count on the engine lasting very long. Plus would it really make much justifiable power over 7.5k rpms? I doubt it. I think the most HP you'd get out of a NA EJ251 would be around 255 and MAYBE 270 if you were lucky but thats prolly stretching it. Not very streetable tho. Where would you use this monster too? Seems like it'd be more of a dragster and saddly you'd still get you're doors blow off by a civic with tons of mods. I don't think this would be a good track car either. YMMV.

cheers

garrett

 

i was just wondering if it would be possible to make a boxer rev that high.

 

All it takes is money. Presonally, I would probably start with an EJ18 or EJ22 instead of an EJ25 to reduce rotational mass.

 

i have a ej22

 

Hehe sorry didn't mean to be a kill-joy. I'm kind of upset with the lack of low dollar high HP returns on the NA EJ25's too. I think a swap is the only way to reliably get over 250 horse... saddly.

cheers

garrett

 

this is the route im going...i have a 2.5 SOHC shortblock that i'll be throwing my 2.2 liter heads on, it will make the comp ratio around 10.5- 1 11.0-1 and i'll be using a S-AFC II to controll fuel, it should be a monster

 

make it redline at 10k