In a couple months, i want to slightly modify my RS. I want some performance but i want to keep it as quiet and comfortable as possible. Here are some of my ideas. I am planning to get an STI in the future as a weekend/track warrior.

stock STI catback
cobb header
wheels 17 or keep stock 16
better tires
sport brake pads
suspention? (not lowering springs)
ECU piggyback

 

Brake pads and wheel/tire (or even just tires) are probably best bang for the buck, and you'll be sacrificing minimal comfort if you go to 17s.

If your car is manual, a short shifter might also be something to look into, they're relatively inexpensive and make the car more fun to drive. The performance gains aren't huge, but IMHO it really improves the feel of the car. If it's automatic . . . well just disregard that then.

 

What about the rest of the list?

 

stock STI catback - definite maybe
cobb header - not going to realize full potential without EM and UP/DP
wheels 17 or keep stock 16
better tires
sport brake pads
suspention? (not lowering springs) - not going to find a setup that won't lower it
ECU piggyback - Cobb AP

Hope that helps!

 

Sure does thanks. UP/DP on an N/A, RS motor? O_o?

 

eep, sorry, forgot it was an RS. either way, I'd do the full exhaust before header, dunno about the AP either, I was totally thinking it was a wrx, lol.

 

I figured as much looking at the list you provided.

 

sorry bout that, yeah, I would try to stick to non engine related stuff, n/a buildups can get pretty expensive.

 

Subarus have gobbs or torque to begin with. A lighten flywheel would really make this stand out. You stock Clutch is junk. So get a new one as soon as possible. If you're going to do this, get a flywheel as well. I would go with headers as well, especially Borla. They make some nice stuff. If you have the Money, DMS suspension is the bomb. 40mm would do you just nicely for daily driving. I sported some for 4 years. Now I'm rockin the 50mm. I'll jump the car 50ft and it feels like landing on pillows with the 50mm DMS. Same with the 40mm but would bottom out. However, I'm sure you don't plan on jumping the car very often. I do weekly because I'm psyco. Heres the link if you want to see the footage ---> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Iup8mbWa0w

Get an intake before you buy a cat back. Once you install the intake and cat back you'll see power gain high end and loose some low end torque. The lighten flywheel will compliment this nicley and give you back the low end torque. You can rock the 17" wheels but as a dirt driver, I was never a fan. Or in Solo for that matter. Cold air intakes can be made rather simple using stock aluminum from your local surplus aluminum supplier. Then get a 45 degree silicon hose or a rubber one from home depot (2.5" ID by the way) for $16.00-$50.00 plus $4.00ft for aluminum. Intake are key to subarus. ECU Piggy backs are something else all together. Most systems have limited instalation instuctions relative to models. So unless you plan to outsource this labor, you should be rather experienced with electrical. Consider tuning and trouble shooting as well.


If you have anymore questions, feel free to call me.

Mitch Williams
Checkpoint Racing
www.checkpoint-racing.com
303-296-3030

 

Could you substantiate the claim that the stock clutch is "junk" and provide dyno numbers for your intake?

Also, why are you saying that low end will be lost with a cat back and intake?

 

Clutch: Compared to after market clutches the stock clutch is junk. But over all if you don't plan on doing much to your motor then don't worry about it. Maybe I'm spoiled and have built too many race cars. I just like bomber clutches that hold no matter what I dish out. I've had stock clutches slip on me in several different cars and stand by after market clutches 100%. I like it when they don't bounce on me and when they don't slip. Any stock clutch will eventually do both.

I never dynoed the intake because I never really felt the need to do so. So maybe 2-5hp considering its a cold air system.


And when you add intake and exhaust to any car, it always takes away low end horse power. Thats just what they do. Unless you buy something adjustable like a Supertrap. The difference wouldn't be as eminant as say something like a VW 2/16v or something. But its there. It's about back pressure both on the up and down stroke. The engine depends on back pressure to "lean against" as the motor revs up. You see a spike at higher RPMs because the motor is carrying so much momentum at that point that it doesn't really matter anymore.

There are plenty of after market coilover systems that will allow you to maintain stock ride hieght or even higher. DMS being one of them.


You're in Arizona. If you're ever in the Denver area, call me. I would be more than welcome to take you to our test track and show you what I mean. Just give us a call. I actually like to show off the car, so getting you in there is no skin off my back.


Mitch Williams
Checkpoint Racing
www.checkpoint-racing.com
303-296-3030

 

You do realize that if you put a stronger clutch in that the power has to go somewhere, and instead of burning out the clutch, it'll more likely grenade the gear box? Butt dyno numbers don't say much, and on MAF equipped cars (like Subarus), they cause more problems than they're worth. In other news, I've never heard of an intake taking away low end. Don't even get me started on back pressure, that is so wrong, you need to go back and do some reading.

 

Ok, I guess I'll do some more reading. I keep winning races, that must be because I'm SO wrong.


Sorry for giving my two sense. Whats with guys like you on Forums anyway? Nothing better to do then pick fights with people on open forums just to hear themselves talk. By the way... lets hear what you have to say about pack pressure.

 

If intakes didn't take away from low end, i'm curious as to why Cobb and other big names specifically advertise that there product doesn't hurt low end. It seems to me that they put that on there because most products do hurt low end power.

 

Backpressure is bad, always. The reason stupid ricers think they need backpressure is because they lose power when they put a 4" exhaust on their naturally aspirated 4 cylinder. Gee, it couldn't possibly because they killed their EXHAUST VELOCITY and scavenging efficiency. Backpressure is bad no matter how you cut it. What you want is maximum exhaust velocity and minimum backpressure. You'll never be able to get an exhaust with zero backpressure, but the less you have, the better. But you already knew all of that, since you win so many races. And no, I don't like to hear myself talk, I get tired of people spreading completely WRONG information.

edit: incase you're too thick headed to believe just me click