Hey guys, I'm a university student that has a 99 2.5 rs. I've finally finish paying off the car and now have some money to mod my baby. I'm pretty new to the mod scene so I was wondering if you guys had any suggestion how how I should start.

I'm thinking intake first then complete exhaust (or just the muffler, depends how much money i have left), then i'm lost...... I eventually want to turbo it so can you please suggest parts that would also work for turbo too.

thank you in advance

another option other than turbo'ing the car was actually shipping a 22b engine from japan over here. I know it's a little farfetched. Can you give some suggestions about the engine swap interms of the hassel and price wise.

thanks again

 

I know the borla header carries over from na to turbo, cams would too. intake is cheap and may or may not carry over. exhaust would work but I think the idea is that you'll want bigger tubing with a turbo. Their is probily info out on the sight somewhere but if you want shoot me off a e-mail.

 

Seth is right. Borla Header is very good mod for n/a or turbo. Intake is realtively cheap($99) and will help until you get the turbo, but will not work with the turbo. Turbo kits come with new cats, so maybe 2 3/4" Cat Back system is a good idea but leave the cats till turbo time. Underdrive pulley will work with both n/a & turbo. That is about it for n/a mods short of cams. Short Shift Kit or brakes/suspension?

Sean@rallitek.com

[http://www.rallitek.com]

 

like sean said suspention and brakes might be another thing to look into doing.

I know on my brothers RS he had some issues with brake fade untill he did the wrx front brake upgrade. it's a cheap upgrade and is easy to do, basically your putting on a bigger rotor and a little differnt bracket. I think the pistion/caliper is the same but I'm not 100% on that.

Pads can be easily swapped to something that will grip a lot better than stock but issues like noise, brake dust and life span come into play. I personally dont care about any of those. usually metallic pads take a bit to warm up but brake like a champ when their warm.

endless makes the best pads for cars but you'll pay a lot ($120 per set of 2), their are tons of other companies out their as well that would be happy to sell you pads, usually $50 to $80 is going rate. most will tell you the specs of their pads in terms of grip, life, noise and opperating temps. also SS brake lines are a nice little upgrade to do on your car for relitivly cheap.

I work for sean and most of this stuff he carries in stock. He's really the guy to talk to vs me but I try to help where I can.

All in all the best thing would be to do stuff in stages.

 

If you get the Borla header make sure to get a support bracket added before you put it on as well as a EGT and A/F bungs if you plan on going turbo later on. Also spend some time to grind down some of the rough welds on the inside of the flanges on the Borla unit. Mine looked like crap when I got it.

 

I got a custom exhaust last week. I took out both resonators and put in a 2.5' titanium midpipe and to finish it up i had a 4' burnt tip muffler with no silencer. They next mods I plan to make are front and back tower bars, sway bars, and a cold air intake. Due to money restrains I think i'm going to go with the 2 tower bars first and then get the sway bars later, cause i think they're more effective then the sway bars (i could be wrong, correct me if i'm wrong). I really want to add the intake cause it's inexpensive and i've heard a lot of good things about it, but I'm really scared because apparently my MY99 has a MAF that will screw up quite frequently if I put in an intake. Really really need your opinions on what kinda of cold air intake i should get to avoid this problem.

thanx

 

Skip the tower bars and get the sway bar. The tower bars won't be anything noticeable unless it just makes you feel better. You could get the solid end links from Kartboy and a bigger swaybar and have a much better improvement in handling.

 

The Rear Sway Bar!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tower braces are good with stiff suspension. Cheap too. We have strut tower braces for under $100. The rear sway bar will make the biggest handling difference.

sean
Rallitek Performance Inc.
[http://www.rallitek.com]

 

Later on down the road you'll need better clutch as sean can tell you depending on what kit you go with it may or may not include one. I'd assume a lighter flywheel as well as pullies would be some good mods to go with. as most say, suspention (sway bars) would be a good next step. I'm a big fan of stoping so pads would be nice but they arent a big must have thing now. I'd think when your stock ones go out look for something better.

 

I forgot to mention that because the twisting of the frame and strut towers is so minimal most strut bars actually make zero difference. Options mag tested a large group of brace a while back and found no results. Especially on a car with a decent frame and layout to it. The usual strut braces just go on really easily and with no trouble. Thats because they are made to go on that way. They don't design into them any pre-load or tension that would allow the brace to actually do its job. Instead the flexing is absorbed by the poor fitment of the braces. Also the rear strut brace that also has the V section in the middle to mount to the floor of the trunk was one of the better rear braces.