what mods to achieve 300 whp with STi? (Can't Find, please help)
Originally Posted by gruppe-s
20STI05 - We actually have a modified 20G turbo coming out that will outperform the green. For these larger type turbos, I'd either recommend going really big turbo for maximum efficiency (if you're staying with pump) or running the Cobb Access port with custom map (we can do this for you) to allow you to run higher octane gas. On a small displacement turbo car, octane is key. 

say i get a 255lph FP, 850cc inj,TBE(minus UP),20g,FMIC, turbo XS ram air and samco intake hose and, the access port for 93 octane pump gas. whats an est. of power output?
Last edited by 20sti05; Sep 26, 2005 at 11:24 AM. Reason: forgot something
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Car Info: 2005 LGT wagon
Let's see, I'm running the following on my 05 STi & making 285 ftlbs wtq & 270ish whp:
1. Injen Red intake.
2. Headers.
3. TBE
4. Aquamist water/methanol injection.
5. Cobb AP w/ custom tune...which needs refining after I tone down the water injection.
I'm toying with the idea of either a VF22 or a PE1820 turbo.
1. Injen Red intake.
2. Headers.
3. TBE
4. Aquamist water/methanol injection.
5. Cobb AP w/ custom tune...which needs refining after I tone down the water injection.
I'm toying with the idea of either a VF22 or a PE1820 turbo.
Originally Posted by Oaf
Let's see, I'm running the following on my 05 STi & making 285 ftlbs wtq & 270ish whp:
1. Injen Red intake.
2. Headers.
3. TBE
4. Aquamist water/methanol injection.
5. Cobb AP w/ custom tune...which needs refining after I tone down the water injection.
I'm toying with the idea of either a VF22 or a PE1820 turbo.
1. Injen Red intake.
2. Headers.
3. TBE
4. Aquamist water/methanol injection.
5. Cobb AP w/ custom tune...which needs refining after I tone down the water injection.
I'm toying with the idea of either a VF22 or a PE1820 turbo.
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iTrader: (25)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 15,494
From: Participating in some Anarchy!
Car Info: 2005 LGT wagon
Couple of reasons:
-Very few people are using it; I march to a different beat.
-It's an effective way of adding gobs of power, when you properly tune for it.
-Because I can.
W/A injection is simply another way of increasing the effective octane rating of the intake charge; water cools the charge, alcohol raises the octane rating
Among other parameters, knock is brought on by too low of octane for the temp/press. of the intake charge.
To prevent knock, you can:
1. retard timing...bad for power.
2. Reduce boost...again, bad for power.
3. Increase octane rating of fuel...expensive & wastefull.
4. Larger I/C; FMIC is "best" for temp reducing, but opens the turbo lag can o worms.
W/A injection is used only when the engine needs it; higher octane fuel is wasted 90% of engine's life, as it's being burned all time, even when not needed.
Also, there's no turbo lag like with a FMIC.
-Very few people are using it; I march to a different beat.
-It's an effective way of adding gobs of power, when you properly tune for it.
-Because I can.

W/A injection is simply another way of increasing the effective octane rating of the intake charge; water cools the charge, alcohol raises the octane rating
Among other parameters, knock is brought on by too low of octane for the temp/press. of the intake charge.
To prevent knock, you can:
1. retard timing...bad for power.
2. Reduce boost...again, bad for power.
3. Increase octane rating of fuel...expensive & wastefull.
4. Larger I/C; FMIC is "best" for temp reducing, but opens the turbo lag can o worms.
W/A injection is used only when the engine needs it; higher octane fuel is wasted 90% of engine's life, as it's being burned all time, even when not needed.
Also, there's no turbo lag like with a FMIC.
Originally Posted by Oaf
Couple of reasons:
-Very few people are using it; I march to a different beat.
-It's an effective way of adding gobs of power, when you properly tune for it.
-Because I can.
W/A injection is simply another way of increasing the effective octane rating of the intake charge; water cools the charge, alcohol raises the octane rating
Among other parameters, knock is brought on by too low of octane for the temp/press. of the intake charge.
To prevent knock, you can:
1. retard timing...bad for power.
2. Reduce boost...again, bad for power.
3. Increase octane rating of fuel...expensive & wastefull.
4. Larger I/C; FMIC is "best" for temp reducing, but opens the turbo lag can o worms.
W/A injection is used only when the engine needs it; higher octane fuel is wasted 90% of engine's life, as it's being burned all time, even when not needed.
Also, there's no turbo lag like with a FMIC.
-Very few people are using it; I march to a different beat.
-It's an effective way of adding gobs of power, when you properly tune for it.
-Because I can.

W/A injection is simply another way of increasing the effective octane rating of the intake charge; water cools the charge, alcohol raises the octane rating
Among other parameters, knock is brought on by too low of octane for the temp/press. of the intake charge.
To prevent knock, you can:
1. retard timing...bad for power.
2. Reduce boost...again, bad for power.
3. Increase octane rating of fuel...expensive & wastefull.
4. Larger I/C; FMIC is "best" for temp reducing, but opens the turbo lag can o worms.
W/A injection is used only when the engine needs it; higher octane fuel is wasted 90% of engine's life, as it's being burned all time, even when not needed.
Also, there's no turbo lag like with a FMIC.
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Car Info: 2005 LGT wagon
I used ERLs Aquamist basic kit (~$500) & a Spec C 12 litre water tank ($150).
Right now, I'm using two nozzles in a modified I/C-to-Throttle body hose, but will be replaced with another throttle body that I have drilled & tapped for one misting nozzle.
My setup took about 8 hrs total time to install; made an OE looking wiring harness, installed OE looking arming switch, confirmation LED(indicates that the pump is pumping). But when you open the hood, nothing looks out of place.
Since the basic kit came with an adjustable pressure switch, I have it activate the stock I/C sprayer system as well; @ 11 psi of boost, w/a gets injected & the i/c gets sprayed down.
No knock + very good advance multiplier #s + very advanced timing = an Oaf that giggles like a school girl on prom night.
A thing you gotta remember, though, is that w/a injection isn't the Holy Grail of mad power.
It merely increases the potential power that your engine can make.
I'll be doing a write up on it, including pictures, in the next week or two.
Right now, I'm using two nozzles in a modified I/C-to-Throttle body hose, but will be replaced with another throttle body that I have drilled & tapped for one misting nozzle.
My setup took about 8 hrs total time to install; made an OE looking wiring harness, installed OE looking arming switch, confirmation LED(indicates that the pump is pumping). But when you open the hood, nothing looks out of place.
Since the basic kit came with an adjustable pressure switch, I have it activate the stock I/C sprayer system as well; @ 11 psi of boost, w/a gets injected & the i/c gets sprayed down.
No knock + very good advance multiplier #s + very advanced timing = an Oaf that giggles like a school girl on prom night.
A thing you gotta remember, though, is that w/a injection isn't the Holy Grail of mad power.
It merely increases the potential power that your engine can make.
I'll be doing a write up on it, including pictures, in the next week or two.
i made 312whp and 335wtq on a mustang dyno with turbo-back, Cobb accessport, Cobb intake, samco turbo inlet hose, CO2 intercooler sprayer, lighten crank and flywheel, electronic boost controller, apex-i grounding kit. in 101 degree weather in florida
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