Timing Belt Ripped
#1
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Thread Starter
Timing Belt Ripped
Well Like a Dummy I went over my scheduled maintenance on my timing belt, I have a 05 STI 115K on my motor...due to financial issues I couldn't afford the parts I needed to change my timing belt, well one night I was driving home I felt my motor jerk then shut off I tried cranking the motor but would not start so I towed the car home, took the timing cover off and notice the the belt had a small rip the car did jump timing. Anyways I was wondering if I might have bent valves, I was driving at a very low rpm maybe 2500 tops at 30mph.. I order the parts last night and had them shipped over night and plan on installing Friday. I know I should of changed it sooner but I just spent almost 3 grand rebuilding my transmission. so please any information helps thank you..
#2
Well Like a Dummy I went over my scheduled maintenance on my timing belt, I have a 05 STI 115K on my motor...due to financial issues I couldn't afford the parts I needed to change my timing belt, well one night I was driving home I felt my motor jerk then shut off I tried cranking the motor but would not start so I towed the car home, took the timing cover off and notice the the belt had a small rip the car did jump timing. Anyways I was wondering if I might have bent valves, I was driving at a very low rpm maybe 2500 tops at 30mph.. I order the parts last night and had them shipped over night and plan on installing Friday. I know I should of changed it sooner but I just spent almost 3 grand rebuilding my transmission. so please any information helps thank you..
#3
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Thread Starter
well that sucks I knew it was a long shot but I was hoping for a miracle since the timing belt didn't snap.. guess I have to save money for new valves, gaskets, etc..
#4
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Car Info: 04 impreza wrx R.I.P Daniel Wentz JOEBOBBUCKET
Only thing I can suggest is that install the new belt and tension. Set timing properly then perform a compression and leak down test at the same time. This will almost tell you immediately if you have an issue
#7
If in doubt, FLAT OUT
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I had the t-belt go on an Integra and it resulted in no serious damage. I was (fortunately) sitting at a light at the time though... Sounds like you were moving at the time, so the probability of damage is a lot higher.
#8
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well like Heedz said I'm SOL, I have bent valves so time to pull the engine and rebuild at least I don't have to worry about when or if I will have head gasket failure..
#10
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Thread Starter
Head Gaskets X2 $42.00
Valve Cover Gasket Kit $60.00
Intake Gasket $11.20
Brian Crower Valves Intake $147.00 and Exhaust $147.00
Cam Seals X4 28.00
Valve Stem Seals 16 $84.00
Exhaust Gasket X2 10.56 Up pipe to Turbo Gasket $14.00
Sorry about the long list and poor grammer if I'm missing anything else please feel free to list anything else..
#11
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we all have our learning lessons. just sucks it happened to u. GL!
#12
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Thread Starter
Well I'm going to start my motor build soon, And I'm going with ACL Race Bearings for my Mains and Rods but I don't know If I should use standard or 0.25 I don't know what the +1 is so if someone can explain it to me please?? thanks
#13
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iTrader: (9)
You buy bearings, rings, pistons after case is split. this way you know what bearings youll need. you may not even need to change size bearings. just a polish on crankshaft, STD bearings, and double check of oil clearance with plastigauge should be good. BUUUT your crank journals (main and rods) can be damaged (scratch, knick, heat transfer) at which point youll need to machine crank and order appropriate size bearings. same goes for piston rings. your cyl walls could be toast, or the honing hatch marks could still be t here. you just dont know until you really look at insides. i hope that was somewhat helpful. the info i provided is for general engine machining. with forged parts or aftermarket, there may be some things im missing. but thats about it for the most part. split case, inspect condition or crank, bearings, cyl walls, pistons, and THEN start looking at bearings.
#14
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Thread Starter
You buy bearings, rings, pistons after case is split. this way you know what bearings youll need. you may not even need to change size bearings. just a polish on crankshaft, STD bearings, and double check of oil clearance with plastigauge should be good. BUUUT your crank journals (main and rods) can be damaged (scratch, knick, heat transfer) at which point youll need to machine crank and order appropriate size bearings. same goes for piston rings. your cyl walls could be toast, or the honing hatch marks could still be t here. you just dont know until you really look at insides. i hope that was somewhat helpful. the info i provided is for general engine machining. with forged parts or aftermarket, there may be some things im missing. but thats about it for the most part. split case, inspect condition or crank, bearings, cyl walls, pistons, and THEN start looking at bearings.
#15
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Thanks for the info that did help a lot. I Decided to just do with a full rebuild since I have the engine out and semi taken apart. And with the mileage on my block, I don't want to go with a stock rebuild. Only down side is that I never build a Subaru engine meaning I never split the block, Etc.. I do know about the crank and machining process. I was going to try this on my own but when it comes with the internals of a EJ motor I scratch my head so I decided to ask my dads friend since he owns a machine shop, He's going to help me build the motor so I can get some experience building these EJ motors...